Albino Pacman Frog Questions

[GrifTheGreat]

Welcome to the forum. Jessica pretty much narrowed it down. Her info is solid. The only thing that I will add is that when feeding crickets as a rule of thumb offer crickets that are no longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. The same goes for the chunks of earth worm/night crawler.

When using the infrared light use it in combination with a lamp that has a dimmer switch so you can accurately adjust the amount of light and heat coming from the bulb. Don't go any higher than a 50 watt bulb since you have a 40 your fine. The light will burn off humidity so becareful and mist as necessary.

Get rid of the moss like Jessica said. He will accidentaly eat some and may become impacted(severe constipation) and possibly die.

As for lights that will harm your Albino. Any Fluorescent bulb will damage your frogs eyes so they are a huge NO! As for incandescent bulbs. You can't use any type of basking bulb except the infrared bulbs. You can use a ceramic heat emitter which is a bulb that produces no light only heat. With any ceramic heat emitter you will need a lamp with a dimmer switch. When using lights for your frogs I can't stress enough how important it is to use a lamp with a dimmer switch. It makes it so much easier and safer to control heat and light output from your bulbs.

Cover 3 sides of your frogs enclosure with a background so he/she feels more secure. This is very important. You may only have to cover 2 since your UTH is on one side.

Good luck and keep us posted on the little ones progress.

[sobo]

Welcome to the forum. Jessica pretty much narrowed it down. Her info is solid. The only thing that I will add is that when feeding crickets as a rule of thumb offer crickets that are no longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. The same goes for the chunks of earth worm/night crawler.

When using the infrared light use it in combination with a lamp that has a dimmer switch so you can accurately adjust the amount of light and heat coming from the bulb. Don't go any higher than a 50 watt bulb since you have a 40 your fine. The light will burn off humidity so becareful and mist as necessary.

Get rid of the moss like Jessica said. He will accidentaly eat some and may become impacted(severe constipation) and possibly die.

As for lights that will harm your Albino. Any Fluorescent bulb will damage your frogs eyes so they are a huge NO! As for incandescent bulbs. You can't use any type of basking bulb except the infrared bulbs. You can use a ceramic heat emitter which is a bulb that produces no light only heat. With any ceramic heat emitter you will need a lamp with a dimmer switch. When using lights for your frogs I can't stress enough how important it is to use a lamp with a dimmer switch. It makes it so much easier and safer to control heat and light output from your bulbs.

Cover 3 sides of your frogs enclosure with a background so he/she feels more secure. This is very important. You may only have to cover 2 since your UTH is on one side.

Good luck and keep us posted on the little ones progress.

Hi, thanks for the info!

I dont have a switch light with a dimmer switch, but I use my light for the heat only. The heating pad didnt provide enough heat for my other pacman frog in the 10 gallon tank so I had to buy a light as well to keep the temp. up. He gets my room light for a day/night cycle. Im home all day and work at night so its perfect.

I dont know anything about bulbs and lights and the different kinds so i cant tell you much on that, but it is a 40watt bulb that makes a red light. Red seemed the safest to me.

As for the moss, yes. I will be taking that out when I get a waterbowl in there for him. Ill have to make one because my pet stores dont carry little ones.
Ivory had a good idea, ill use a cap of some sort. I would take it out now but i want him to feel perfectly at home while he adjusts to it, he had a very long and unpeasent trip to my house.

Heres a picture of his cage, the moss on the right, like I said, is there just for now to keep it humpid while I get a bowl. I wont feed him while that moss is in there so it wont do any harm. The heating pad as you can see is on the back of the cage only a little, and hes in the back left corner. The light is always on 24/7 but I had to shut it off because of the picture.




I would be more than happy to keep you all updated . Thank you very much for your help!

[GrifTheGreat]

Hi, thanks for the info!

I dont have a switch light with a dimmer switch, but I use my light for the heat only. The heating pad didnt provide enough heat for my other pacman frog in the 10 gallon tank so I had to buy a light as well to keep the temp. up. He gets my room light for a day/night cycle. Im home all day and work at night so its perfect.

I dont know anything about bulbs and lights and the different kinds so i cant tell you much on that, but it is a 40watt bulb that makes a red light. Red seemed the safest to me.

As for the moss, yes. I will be taking that out when I get a waterbowl in there for him. Ill have to make one because my pet stores dont carry little ones.
Ivory had a good idea, ill use a cap of some sort. I would take it out now but i want him to feel perfectly at home while he adjusts to it, he had a very long and unpeasent trip to my house.

Heres a picture of his cage, the moss on the right, like I said, is there just for now to keep it humpid while I get a bowl. I wont feed him while that moss is in there so it wont do any harm. The heating pad as you can see is on the back of the cage only a little, and hes in the back left corner. The light is always on 24/7 but I had to shut it off because of the picture.




I would be more than happy to keep you all updated . Thank you very much for your help!

Invest in a clamp lamp with a dimmer switch soon. A cap will work for a water bowl for now like Jess said.

Keep him/her warm and moist. The setup is good for now.

[sobo]

Invest in a clamp lamp with a dimmer switch soon. A cap will work for a water bowl for now like Jess said.

Keep him/her warm and moist. The setup is good for now.

Alright, will do. Thanks for the help! Ill keep this thread updated.

[IvoryReptiles]

One more point.....DO NOT use distilled water........EVER!!!

Distilled water has absolutely nothing in it....no minerals or vitamins........they absorb the water through their skin and it will leach out what minerals & vitamins the frog has in it's system and will kill the frog.

Spring water is fine, and so is dechlorinated water.

Grif's advice is spot on! And you may want to invest in a good digital temp gun to get accurate readings of your temps in the enclosure.......make adjustments to the heating pad to get the temps at a steady 75-85 daytime temps.

[Mentat]

Welcome to Frog Forum Sobo! You got good information from Jessica & Grif. As stated by them; the moss got to go ASAP. If frog was in a box for 5 days would recommend to try and get it eating soonest. Small Pacmans like that need food daily.

Spring water is fine; tap is OK too as long as you use a conditioner (removes Cl, chloramines, and heavy metals). Distilled, de-ionized, or R/O water are not good and will harm your frog. If you live near a Petsmart; check out the hermit crab water dishes. They have a very small one that sells for 99 cents and it will fit in a small critter keeper and serve as a soaking dish for small frog.

Remember to wash your hands and rinse them with dechlorinated water before handling your frogs. It's a good idea to wash them again after done handling. Good luck!

[sobo]

One more point.....DO NOT use distilled water........EVER!!!

Distilled water has absolutely nothing in it....no minerals or vitamins........they absorb the water through their skin and it will leach out what minerals & vitamins the frog has in it's system and will kill the frog.

Spring water is fine, and so is dechlorinated water.

Grif's advice is spot on! And you may want to invest in a good digital temp gun to get accurate readings of your temps in the enclosure.......make adjustments to the heating pad to get the temps at a steady 75-85 daytime temps.

Thank you very much for this, ive been wondering for a while which is better to use. I always used spring because it makes more sense than useing pure h2o.

Now i know for sure what im useing is perfect thanks!

Thanks Carlos for the water dish idea, im gonna go to the pet store and a little hermit crab one today



Okay, update on the little guy.
I took the moss out, and for now put a plastic lid as a waterbowl. Even freshly after a new mist his humidity did drop from 55 to 30 though, after i took the moss out.
Any ideas on how to make it more humid?

Besides that everythings fine, he still hasnt ate anything and he gets scared really really easy. He jumps when i go to mist the cage.

[GrifTheGreat]

Thank you very much for this, ive been wondering for a while which is better to use. I always used spring because it makes more sense than useing pure h2o.

Now i know for sure what im useing is perfect thanks!

Thanks Carlos for the water dish idea, im gonna go to the pet store and a little hermit crab one today



Okay, update on the little guy.
I took the moss out, and for now put a plastic lid as a waterbowl. Even freshly after a new mist his humidity did drop from 55 to 30 though, after i took the moss out.
Any ideas on how to make it more humid?

Besides that everythings fine, he still hasnt ate anything and he gets scared really really easy. He jumps when i go to mist the cage.

The lowest they can handle humidity wise is 65%. If you can keep it at 65% he will be fine. Just do your best to get it to 70 to 80%. The problem is that those keepers breathe so well that you lose humidity. You can veover half the enclosures top with a damp cloth or towel. This will help hold humidity.