Albino Pacman Frog Questions

[sobo]

Hi, I have been looking in these forums for a while and decided to make an account and ask my own questions.
I have 2 firebelly toads (Doing great! Had them for almost a year now!)
And now I just got a new pacman frog.

Ive had a couple pacman frogs in the past and neither of them worked out, the first one never ate so I gave him back and the second one stopped eating so I gave him back. I than decided to try a Albino pacman frog. So I just got a baby Albino pacman frog yesterday. Hes about the size of a quarter and ill put up a picture of him at the bottom on this.
I dont know if they have any special treatment they need because its "Albino". He has red eyes and I heard the wrong kind of light can burn the eyes/skin.

So my question to you experts is do I need to do anything different with Albino's?
Is my set-up correct for pacman frogs?


Heres the details on him:
Hes a baby so hes in a little cricket keeper cage, once he gets bigger I have a 10 gallon tank ready for him.
The bottom of the cage is layered with about 2 inches deep of coconut fiber.
He doesnt have a water bowl because I cant find one small enough to fit in the cage, he should be fine without one though, its only for now because hes so small.
Instead, to keep the humidity up, I put some very wet moss in there on one side of the cage. I also spay the cage down 2-3 times a day. (only had him for one day so far)
To keep the temp. up, I use a heating lamp (40watt red bulb). I think a red light was the best choice, please correct me if im wrong.
I also use a heating pad on the side of the cage, because I didnt want it to hot, I only put a forth of the pad on the side of the cage.
So the cage stays at a 40-60 humidity and a 78-85 temp.
For food, I went to the store and got little pinhead crickets(I do use vitamin D3 powder). I tried feeding him today but he didnt eat it. Nothing to worry about since its its first day getting used to his new home correct?


Thats about all I can say, hes doing good. A lot better than when I got him. He was very frightened from the 5 day trip in a box. (stupid websites only care about the money).
Ill take a picture of his cage and all if you have more questions you need to know to answer mine.

If theres anything im doing wrong or something you suggest doing different, please please let me know.

Heres a picture of him!




( I will continue to post updates on him to be sure everything is going correctly )

[IvoryReptiles]

Hi!

Okay temps are good and the enclosure size is fine for now. I would NOT use the moss in the cage if you feed in it though. it can be ingested and cause an impaction.
The red light for heat is okay, but honestly, a UTH would be better placed on one side of the cage.
He NEEDS a water source, not just being sprayed down. We use milk caps for the smaller ones......even a proper sized bottle cap. It doesn't need to be deep, just deep enough for the frog to sit in it and relax. PLEASE make sure ALL water used is de-chlorinated!!!
The only difference between the albino & the normal colors is that the albino are more sensitive to light and can burn easily under a regular light bulb.

Remember that it will take him a little time to get settled into a new home & environment too!

As for food.......try getting some Nightcrawlers and use proper sized bits (Yes, you will have to cut them) the worms do well kept in the fridge and will survive when losing a bit of their body every other day or so. Dust the worm bit at least every other feeding with vitamins & calcium. We offer the froglets food every evening. They don't always eat nightly, but we offer because they are growing quickly at that time. Alternate the food offered.......try cricket one night & worm the next.......if it refuses one, try the other.

It's a matter of working with the frog & getting to know it. It takes time & attention.
And just so you know, my Husband & I breed these guys, so my advice is from years of experience. Grif also has great advice having gone through much with her frog. Plenty of folks here have great advice & information to give. I hope my tips help.

[sobo]

Thank you for your reply!

So the red light is okay, thats good to hear. And I do have a heating pad on the side of the cage.
Like I said, only a forth of it is on the cage though. Because I have the light and the tank heater, I didnt want the little cage getting to hot.
So I put the tank heater a forth of the way on the side. ( let me know if you want a picture of his cage, it would only take a couple of minutes to do, I dont mind)

So even though its humid enough I should still have some kind of water bowl? I know they love sitting in the water for days ( my otheres did), but I figured its so small, I didnt want any chance of it going in a bowl and not being able to get out. But you had a good idea, ill use a small cap or somthing for now.
I was thinking the same thing about the moss, but I couldnt think of any other way to get his humidity up to 50. But since ill be using a waterbowl now, that should help.
If not, ill keep it in but be sure he doesnt go close to it. Hes on the opposite side of it, so he should be fine because ill be sure im right there to watch him eat.

I do use "Spring water" for everything. Even the water in my firebelly toads tank, for misting, for cleaning, anything that involves water. But some say to use distilled water, and some say to use the spring water for some of the natural chemicals. But I never knew what one was better, maybe you know.

The only reason I use crickets is because most say its a perfectly healthy diet for frogs. My other 2 fires eat them up but they eat smalls and somtimes ill give them some large ones.
Ill try another cricket tonight and if he doesnt even look at it, than ill try your nightcrawlers .

Thank you very much for the info and the quick reply! Im glad to be part of the frogforum community

[GrifTheGreat]

Thank you for your reply!

So the red light is okay, thats good to hear. And I do have a heating pad on the side of the cage.
Like I said, only a forth of it is on the cage though. Because I have the light and the tank heater, I didnt want the little cage getting to hot.
So I put the tank heater a forth of the way on the side. ( let me know if you want a picture of his cage, it would only take a couple of minutes to do, I dont mind)

So even though its humid enough I should still have some kind of water bowl? I know they love sitting in the water for days ( my otheres did), but I figured its so small, I didnt want any chance of it going in a bowl and not being able to get out. But you had a good idea, ill use a small cap or somthing for now.
I was thinking the same thing about the moss, but I couldnt think of any other way to get his humidity up to 50. But since ill be using a waterbowl now, that should help.
If not, ill keep it in but be sure he doesnt go close to it. Hes on the opposite side of it, so he should be fine because ill be sure im right there to watch him eat.

I do use "Spring water" for everything. Even the water in my firebelly toads tank, for misting, for cleaning, anything that involves water. But some say to use distilled water, and some say to use the spring water for some of the natural chemicals. But I never knew what one was better, maybe you know.

The only reason I use crickets is because most say its a perfectly healthy diet for frogs. My other 2 fires eat them up but they eat smalls and somtimes ill give them some large ones.
Ill try another cricket tonight and if he doesnt even look at it, than ill try your nightcrawlers .

Thank you very much for the info and the quick reply! Im glad to be part of the frogforum community

You MUST give him/her a water bowl of some kind for soaking. He will dehydrate and die if you do not supply a water source. It has to be shallow because Pacman Frogs are not good swimmers. No deeper than half the height of your frog.

[GrifTheGreat]

Welcome to the forum. Jessica pretty much narrowed it down. Her info is solid. The only thing that I will add is that when feeding crickets as a rule of thumb offer crickets that are no longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. The same goes for the chunks of earth worm/night crawler.

When using the infrared light use it in combination with a lamp that has a dimmer switch so you can accurately adjust the amount of light and heat coming from the bulb. Don't go any higher than a 50 watt bulb since you have a 40 your fine. The light will burn off humidity so becareful and mist as necessary.

Get rid of the moss like Jessica said. He will accidentaly eat some and may become impacted(severe constipation) and possibly die.

As for lights that will harm your Albino. Any Fluorescent bulb will damage your frogs eyes so they are a huge NO! As for incandescent bulbs. You can't use any type of basking bulb except the infrared bulbs. You can use a ceramic heat emitter which is a bulb that produces no light only heat. With any ceramic heat emitter you will need a lamp with a dimmer switch. When using lights for your frogs I can't stress enough how important it is to use a lamp with a dimmer switch. It makes it so much easier and safer to control heat and light output from your bulbs.

Cover 3 sides of your frogs enclosure with a background so he/she feels more secure. This is very important. You may only have to cover 2 since your UTH is on one side.

Good luck and keep us posted on the little ones progress.

[sobo]

Welcome to the forum. Jessica pretty much narrowed it down. Her info is solid. The only thing that I will add is that when feeding crickets as a rule of thumb offer crickets that are no longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. The same goes for the chunks of earth worm/night crawler.

When using the infrared light use it in combination with a lamp that has a dimmer switch so you can accurately adjust the amount of light and heat coming from the bulb. Don't go any higher than a 50 watt bulb since you have a 40 your fine. The light will burn off humidity so becareful and mist as necessary.

Get rid of the moss like Jessica said. He will accidentaly eat some and may become impacted(severe constipation) and possibly die.

As for lights that will harm your Albino. Any Fluorescent bulb will damage your frogs eyes so they are a huge NO! As for incandescent bulbs. You can't use any type of basking bulb except the infrared bulbs. You can use a ceramic heat emitter which is a bulb that produces no light only heat. With any ceramic heat emitter you will need a lamp with a dimmer switch. When using lights for your frogs I can't stress enough how important it is to use a lamp with a dimmer switch. It makes it so much easier and safer to control heat and light output from your bulbs.

Cover 3 sides of your frogs enclosure with a background so he/she feels more secure. This is very important. You may only have to cover 2 since your UTH is on one side.

Good luck and keep us posted on the little ones progress.

Hi, thanks for the info!

I dont have a switch light with a dimmer switch, but I use my light for the heat only. The heating pad didnt provide enough heat for my other pacman frog in the 10 gallon tank so I had to buy a light as well to keep the temp. up. He gets my room light for a day/night cycle. Im home all day and work at night so its perfect.

I dont know anything about bulbs and lights and the different kinds so i cant tell you much on that, but it is a 40watt bulb that makes a red light. Red seemed the safest to me.

As for the moss, yes. I will be taking that out when I get a waterbowl in there for him. Ill have to make one because my pet stores dont carry little ones.
Ivory had a good idea, ill use a cap of some sort. I would take it out now but i want him to feel perfectly at home while he adjusts to it, he had a very long and unpeasent trip to my house.

Heres a picture of his cage, the moss on the right, like I said, is there just for now to keep it humpid while I get a bowl. I wont feed him while that moss is in there so it wont do any harm. The heating pad as you can see is on the back of the cage only a little, and hes in the back left corner. The light is always on 24/7 but I had to shut it off because of the picture.




I would be more than happy to keep you all updated . Thank you very much for your help!

[GrifTheGreat]

Hi, thanks for the info!

I dont have a switch light with a dimmer switch, but I use my light for the heat only. The heating pad didnt provide enough heat for my other pacman frog in the 10 gallon tank so I had to buy a light as well to keep the temp. up. He gets my room light for a day/night cycle. Im home all day and work at night so its perfect.

I dont know anything about bulbs and lights and the different kinds so i cant tell you much on that, but it is a 40watt bulb that makes a red light. Red seemed the safest to me.

As for the moss, yes. I will be taking that out when I get a waterbowl in there for him. Ill have to make one because my pet stores dont carry little ones.
Ivory had a good idea, ill use a cap of some sort. I would take it out now but i want him to feel perfectly at home while he adjusts to it, he had a very long and unpeasent trip to my house.

Heres a picture of his cage, the moss on the right, like I said, is there just for now to keep it humpid while I get a bowl. I wont feed him while that moss is in there so it wont do any harm. The heating pad as you can see is on the back of the cage only a little, and hes in the back left corner. The light is always on 24/7 but I had to shut it off because of the picture.




I would be more than happy to keep you all updated . Thank you very much for your help!

Invest in a clamp lamp with a dimmer switch soon. A cap will work for a water bowl for now like Jess said.

Keep him/her warm and moist. The setup is good for now.

[sobo]

Invest in a clamp lamp with a dimmer switch soon. A cap will work for a water bowl for now like Jess said.

Keep him/her warm and moist. The setup is good for now.

Alright, will do. Thanks for the help! Ill keep this thread updated.