So I finally broke down a couple of weeks ago and bought a hygrotherm along with a fogger. It works great. Keeping the humidity no lower than 80% all the time and temps within desirable range (in my case, 87 during the day, 80 at night). I was wondering, however, if it would be better to replace my infrared bulb with a ceramic heat emitter as my heat source.
I know I've asked a similar question to this already in the Vivarium section, but it has recently come to my attention that the bulb has one/two flaw: there is a bit of a delay in it turning on when the temp starts to drop below the desired setting, and it's life span will be shortened with it turning itself off and on 24/7. Would a heat emitter be more efficient than this?
Another option would probably be hooking up a side-mounted heat mat to the heating plug of the hygrotherm, but I've never had any real luck with mats like that and don't intend to try again.
Think the delay in light turning on is part of hygrotherm program. Like a house heater or AC; there will be a temperature range of a few degrees where it will operate before it kicks in. The ceramic heat emitters have longer life spans; so what you can do is replace the infrared with a ceramic emitter when it finally burns out.
To determine if ceramic is more efficient than infrared, would have to compare the two units over a period of time while monitoring electrical consumption with meter like kill a watt or similar. Good luck!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
Carlos pretty much covered the subject. I'll just add that infrared lamp is emitting heat as soon as it's on, ceramic heaters are having some delay, but will provide heat way faster then mats or cables. downside here is that infrared lamps will last you way shorter then ceramic. you know a few degrees here and there, a few minutes here and there doesn't really make any difference.
may i just ask why are you keeping your humidity at 87? who are you having that would require such a high humidity?
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
Thanks for the info but I think you misread my post. I keep the temperature at 87 degrees during the day, and 80 at night. Humidity is set to 80%. At night, with the lower temps, it grows even higher (high 80s) with no help from me and the fogger comes on far less often.
Anyway if infrared starts providing heat as soon as its on, I think I'll stick with it for the time being. I always keep a spare anyway for immediate replacement.
right.... too much coffee, not enough sleep lol anyhow 87 is a bit too high I'd say for a pixie, i keep mine as pacmans 82 day 78 night.
yeah i like infrared the most, but the annoying part is having to replace them every 2-3 month or so, i wish i could find something more energy saving, longer lasting and allowing fine tuning of temps.
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
82 day, 78 night, huh? Sounds good. I'll lower my temps to that. Some people, on this forum I've seen, keep them 85 to 90 degrees during the day. 90 is, methinks, is a bit too hot though. But then you seem pretty knowledgable on the subject so I'll take your word for it. Thanks.
Lija is right...80-92'F day and 78'F night time temps are ideal for pacs' metabolism.
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I'm not sure why so many people have trouble with their bulbs burning out fast. I use Infrared at night and spotlight basking bulbs during the day for ambient air heat. Mine last much longer than 2 to 3 months. More like a year or more. I use Fluker's Clamp Lamps that have a built in dimmer switch so I can fine tune the light. I never hook the lights up to the Hygrotherm because it seemed pointless and severly lessens the life of the bulb by turning it on and off frequently. I keep my lights on a timer and have the lamp dialed in according to how much heat is needed. I have a UTH on the side of every enclosure and they are on constantly. The more to turn something on and off frequently the less life it will have.
My Hygrotherms only operate the foggers and tell me what the climate levels are.
90 is actually the max humidity level that these frogs should have and only occational spikes that high. They can handle a range of humidity levels, but nothing below 60% and nothing higher than 90%. Ideal levels are as was mentioned above. Temps should stay in the low 80°s during the day and 72° to 78° at night. They live in many locations and climates throughout South Africa and in some of these places it can get pretty cool at night. Just be sure not to have large fluctuations in the frog's climate and it will be fine.
Everyone else has you covered.![]()
Oh my, yes Grif! Please pardon my tiredness. 80-82'F. Worked 30 hrs in 2 days on 9 hrs sleep...der! Lol!!!Thank you!
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lmao why do i think we all here had too much coffee not enough sleep like me
Heather we talk about pixies and Grif we talk about temps lol
as for temps I'm sure pixies can live in higher temps just fine, i bet in a wild they subjected in 90+F during hot daysdoesn't mean we should boil them in captivity
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Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
hey guys check out care sheet it says this
Temperature:
Day: 25-32 °C (77-90 °F); Night: 20-25 °C (68-77 °F)
it gotta be updated or people will keep their pixies at 90![]()
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
As long as there is a temp gradient within the enclosure all is well.![]()
yeah, but say i have no idea about frogs and come across this sheet and will keep mine at 68 night and 90 day because it says so... if to heat enclosure with lamps not much gradient is there.
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
to be honest I've just read it for the first time too lol
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
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