Where did you get her from? If you want to pm me, you can. She looks wc and I think that she may have a bacterial infection. Do you have a phib friendly vet?
2.0.3 Hyla versicolor "Eastern Gray Tree Frogs"
2.2.0 Agalychnis callidryas "Red Eyed Tree Frogs"
0.0.3 Dendrobates auratus "Turquoise and Bronze"
0.0.1 Anaxyrus fowleri "Fowler's Toad"
Aw man according to the website theyre actually field caught. I must have mixed up the info on the websites I was looking at, as i looked through quite a few.
But the guy i talked to said it was the breeders female and that he left. So im kind of confused. I cant tell whats truth and whats not.
Anyways... The reviews on their website were great, but then a member here showed me reviews off the site and theyre horrible. Isnt that nice...
Well thats the past anyhow. Now its just my job to help this little one. Some think she may have a bacterial infection, chytrid, i hope not but it may very well be the case. A friend told me that a pinch of uniodized salt in the water bowl would help kill the bacteria/fungus? so i purchased some and did just that. I also need to get unflavored pedialyte still, i was supposed to get it today but wasnt able to, so hopefully tomorrow. In the meantime ill continue to give the little one honey baths as well as salt baths. I do rinse the little one off with good water after letting her soak of course.
I read that chytrid cant live in temperatures over 75F so ive been using a heating pad to keep it closer to 80F.
Ive got a few questions. How many times a day should i give her the salt bath? and is a pinch of salt enough for a small water bowl? its like two inches deep, five inches long and three inches wide.
Has anyone used organic coconut water before? my sister drinks it and i saw on the back that it has a lot of vitamins and potassium, and electrolytes. But im wondering if itd be safe to add a bit to the water? Or is that a big no no? Thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it.
The only way you will know if it is Chytrid for sure, in early stages, is if she is tested and comes up positive for B.d. The heat treatment for Chytrid is more involved than you think, so I would watch out going that route as frogs can dehydrate and die. The recommended treatment by our vet was an Itraconazole solution bath (it's by prescription), soak frog 5 minutes daily for 11 days, and do a complete breakdown/clean and bleach (1/2 cup regular bleach to 1 gallon of water) of EVERYTHING your frog comes in contact with every single day (use only non-porous, easily disinfected décor). Having to do this for all 7 of my frogs and each enclosure every day was exhausting but I got through it. This was just a preventative treatment too, as my original frogs never had any issues with this dreaded disease, and things seem same as usual for them 57 days after the last treatment. I planned on testing a few days after the final treatment to make doubly sure everyone was all clear, but our temps skyrocketed up into the upper 90's/100+ degrees, so I held off as I was worried the excessive heat would make the tests non-viable if the ice pack melted before reaching the lab. All the frogs seemed to handle treatment well except for Honey-Lime, my problem child. I think the medication adversely effected him, possibly exacerbating the gastric issues he's had from coccidiosis. He just doesn't want to eat, and when he does it seems to be painful or bother him somehowI think I'm going to have to wind up putting him on a prepared meal, like pacman food mixed with Reptaboost, something that is nutritious but easy to digest and without any hard bits like leg parts or heads.
I have no experience with using salt in the water, but I would beware of that until you get more info. I have, however, used 100% all natural organic coconut water (mixed with dechlor water) in place of Pedialyte with no apparent problems. If you suspect Chytrid then time is of the essence and you need to get her tested immediately, this can be a very fast acting disease, but conversely it can also hang on if the frog is getting other supportive therapy other than the anti-fungal treatment... at least this was my experience with my poor Pole Bean frog![]()
Mom to these fine frogs!
4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert
Lisa is right. The only way to be sure is to test. I posted --> sent the link a few days ago- see post #4
The swab is a very simple process... but you need to call have the swab sent to you.
If the frog is still il, I may I respectfully suggest you move quickly.
I believe Josh's Frogs sell the swabs as well.
I have never used a salt bath for a tree frog.
As mentioned... ask the breeder if they spot test their offspring for:
Chytrid Fungus (B. dendrobatidis)
more importantly ~ ranavirus
A fresh fecal sample can be sent for detection of parasites.
If present , parasites, can be treated w Panacur, of which you can purchase from Dr Frye or a near-by herp vet.
This may help:
http://www.herpcenter.com/reptile-vet-finder/
http://www.repticzone.com/articles/v...tedStates.html
![]()
Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
I agree with the other ladies ^^ Getting him/her tested for parasites and chytrid is the best thing you can do right now, especially considering that this frog is wild caught. It would also be important so that the facility can test their current animals, because judging by their reviews, they have some serious issues going on. That's so frustrating, I'm sorry for your difficulties. I highly recommend researching reviews and asking a bazillion questions when purchasing animals in the future. You shouldn't have to, but some people are deceptive and tend to care more about their bottom line than anything else.
2.0.3 Hyla versicolor "Eastern Gray Tree Frogs"
2.2.0 Agalychnis callidryas "Red Eyed Tree Frogs"
0.0.3 Dendrobates auratus "Turquoise and Bronze"
0.0.1 Anaxyrus fowleri "Fowler's Toad"
Okay thank you. My original male red eyes have no issue with 80F, if anything it makes them more lively. The warmer it is, the more i hear frenchy chuckling at newbie. They are from costa rica so i think 80 is okay. The little one has a water bowl in her tank and is misted regularly as well, i keep it at 70% - 80% humidity and i also remove the heating pad every few hours.
I have been thoroughly cleaning everything every night, except for the water bowl which i clean two-three times a day.
Im sorry about sir honey lime! I hope he will be okay.
She is still not eating unfortunately. Last night i used an eye dripper to suck up some cricket guts and calcium/D3 powder and get it into her mouth. I feel that the supplement is important at this time.
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