Questions!! Whites Tree Frog

[omgitsbekahxD]

Great! I'll be bringing a fecal sample to work then once I am able to obtain one (:
I had no idea that frogs could have the same thing as a cat or dog, although it makes sense, I just never thought about it.
Usually worms cause cats/dogs to have diarrhea, not get constipated. Is it possible that my frog has some type of worms that cause constipation? (assuming he is, anyway)
And if his next movement is like his last, I will definitely have enough to test it haha So it is normal for them to have a large amount of feces all at once? Also how often are they supposed to have a movement? He is my first frog (aside from when I was very young) and I don't know what normal is in that aspect.

I know there have to be many way to do this, but basically all we do to prepare a fecal test is mix "Fecal Float Solution" with a small fecal sample in a disposable cup. We put gauze over the cup and "strain" the sample into a tube (big pieces are blocked by gauze leaving only liquid in the tube.) Fill the rest of the tube with the solution, put a glass slide on top (being sure that the solution is slightly "bubbled" at the top so the slide collects whatever may be there) and put it in the spinner. At the other clinic we do the same process, but without the spinner. Either work fine as long as you give at least 10 minutes to sit which allows time for eggs, ect, to float to the top. They then stick to the glass slide which is put under the microscope to analyze. Simple, but you must have the right equipment.

[omgitsbekahxD]

IrThumper, just realized that you commented on my Answers!

I've been trying my best to keep his humidity at 50% but I don't know the best way to do so. I leave the humidifier on pretty much all day and all night. It does best on full blast, but I'm not always home to add water to it, So when I'm gone I keep it on the low setting to make sure there is still water when I come back.

I do cycle 12 hours on and 12 hours off, or as close to that as possible. Most days I get up around the same time so the cycle is pretty close to the same times.

As for the moss, I was told that is was good for their humidity ): I will take it out asap!

I'm unsure whether I can find those other kinds of insects, but I will look at my local pet store and see. I forgot to put that I've offered earthworms. He wasn't interested in those either so I'm not sure if he'd be interested in any other worms. He must be picky.

Are there specific kinds of feeder bowls? Crickets would jump out of regular ones.

I was also told to use calcium at every feeding. Multivitamin 2-3 times a week. Is this wrong?

Lastly, my frog enjoys being handled, so I do get him out for a little while to let him sit on my arm or shoulder. Not always every day, but I try to give him some time out of the tank- he sure enjoys it! When I try to put him back, he'll climb up my arm to avoid going back in the tank. The only other time I handle him is to put him at the bottom of the tank so he knows when feeding time is. I do not put lotion on or any medication on my hands unless it is after I handle my frog. I get cuts/scratches/bites quite often since I work with animals pretty much every day so if I have an open wound I make sure that he doesn't have contact with it as well as practice good hygiene. Thanks for your input and concerns!

[irThumper]

IrThumper, just realized that you commented on my Answers!

I've been trying my best to keep his humidity at 50% but I don't know the best way to do so. I leave the humidifier on pretty much all day and all night. It does best on full blast, but I'm not always home to add water to it, So when I'm gone I keep it on the low setting to make sure there is still water when I come back.

I do cycle 12 hours on and 12 hours off, or as close to that as possible. Most days I get up around the same time so the cycle is pretty close to the same times.

As for the moss, I was told that is was good for their humidity ): I will take it out asap!

I'm unsure whether I can find those other kinds of insects, but I will look at my local pet store and see. I forgot to put that I've offered earthworms. He wasn't interested in those either so I'm not sure if he'd be interested in any other worms. He must be picky.

Are there specific kinds of feeder bowls? Crickets would jump out of regular ones.

I was also told to use calcium at every feeding. Multivitamin 2-3 times a week. Is this wrong?

Lastly, my frog enjoys being handled, so I do get him out for a little while to let him sit on my arm or shoulder. Not always every day, but I try to give him some time out of the tank- he sure enjoys it! When I try to put him back, he'll climb up my arm to avoid going back in the tank. The only other time I handle him is to put him at the bottom of the tank so he knows when feeding time is. I do not put lotion on or any medication on my hands unless it is after I handle my frog. I get cuts/scratches/bites quite often since I work with animals pretty much every day so if I have an open wound I make sure that he doesn't have contact with it as well as practice good hygiene. Thanks for your input and concerns!

[QUOTE=omgitsbekah >>>>>[/QUOTE]IrThumper, just realized that you commented on my Answers!

I've been trying my best to keep his humidity at 50% but I don't know the best way to do so. I leave the humidifier on pretty much all day and all night. It does best on full blast, but I'm not always home to add water to it, So when I'm gone I keep it on the low setting to make sure there is still water when I come back.
What kind of humidity gauge do you have?

I do cycle 12 hours on and 12 hours off, or as close to that as possible. Most days I get up around the same time so the cycle is pretty close to the same times.

As for the moss, I was told that is was good for their humidity ): I will take it out asap!
Yes it can be scary stuff. Lots of frog people use sphagnum moss, especially when shipping, but for White's they are so greedy they will just grab it in with their feeders, swallow it and there you go, trouble! One way to help humidity is live potted plants in the enclosure, making sure they are free of all chemicals, pesticides and fertilizers and are potted in ABG/safe soil. Good plant choices include Dracaena compacta, var. "Janet Craig", Sanseveria (aka Snake plant or Mother-in-Law Tongue), and Pothos.

I'm unsure whether I can find those other kinds of insects, but I will look at my local pet store and see. I forgot to put that I've offered earthworms. He wasn't interested in those either so I'm not sure if he'd be interested in any other worms. He must be picky.
Most frogs absolutely detest "Red Wigglers" or other types of composting worm, so it's thought that they produce a taste that frogs find disagreeable. Canadian nightcrawlers are generally a safe choice. Most petshops should carry waxworms or dubia, if not they can easily be ordered online.

Are there specific kinds of feeder bowls? Crickets would jump out of regular ones.
For myself I try to look for a glass bowl that is textured & has colored glass so the frogs can see something's in the bowl but not exactly what... helps keep them from bashing their little faces trying to eat the crickets through the glass! (usually, lol) and is at least twice as tall as the frog, if possible. The crickets "usually" don't jump out-- unless the frog scares them into a big jump, or they crawl up the frog's back to escape. Everybody has a different idea of what kind of dish they like to use, and sometimes it takes some experimenting to find what you like. I find most of mine at Goodwill or 2nd Hand stores.

I was also told to use calcium at every feeding. Multivitamin 2-3 times a week. Is this wrong?
Everything I've heard from the "folks in the know" here states that Cam/VitD3 once a week, and Multi-Vit once a week (on different days) is perfectly acceptable for an adult White's tree frog. It also helpful to "gut load" the crickets a few hours before you feed them to your frogs. This means feeding a high calcium cricket chow or fresh vegies to them: sweet potato, yam, carrot, kale and leafy lettuce (not iceberg unless it is organic!); A slice of juicy orange can work for a water source for the crickets, or you can offer cotton balls soaked in spring water inside a plastic lid. I purchase a few dozen crickets at a time and keep them in their own small set up where they get fed Fluker's dry high calcium cricket diet, original Cheerios, and the spring water on cotton balls.

Lastly, my frog enjoys being handled, so I do get him out for a little while to let him sit on my arm or shoulder. Not always every day, but I try to give him some time out of the tank- he sure enjoys it! When I try to put him back, he'll climb up my arm to avoid going back in the tank. The only other time I handle him is to put him at the bottom of the tank so he knows when feeding time is. I do not put lotion on or any medication on my hands unless it is after I handle my frog. I get cuts/scratches/bites quite often since I work with animals pretty much every day so if I have an open wound I make sure that he doesn't have contact with it as well as practice good hygiene. Thanks for your input and concerns!
Folks here usually have differing ideas on handling of frogs, but the general consensus is less is best... I personally believe that some (not all) frogs do learn to enjoy being handled on occasion, especially if they are young and cb when you get them. With White's it just seems to come naturally to some of them, and this has even been noted in books about WTFs in the wild. I think a keeper should definitely use discretion, if a frog obviously does not enjoy being handled, don't, if they do then enjoy short intervals of interaction with them but always keep their safety in mind and first priority. It sounds to me like you already have this well in hand-- pardon the pun!

[irThumper]

Great! I'll be bringing a fecal sample to work then once I am able to obtain one (:
I had no idea that frogs could have the same thing as a cat or dog, although it makes sense, I just never thought about it.
Usually worms cause cats/dogs to have diarrhea, not get constipated. Is it possible that my frog has some type of worms that cause constipation? (assuming he is, anyway)
And if his next movement is like his last, I will definitely have enough to test it haha So it is normal for them to have a large amount of feces all at once? Also how often are they supposed to have a movement? He is my first frog (aside from when I was very young) and I don't know what normal is in that aspect.

I know there have to be many way to do this, but basically all we do to prepare a fecal test is mix "Fecal Float Solution" with a small fecal sample in a disposable cup. We put gauze over the cup and "strain" the sample into a tube (big pieces are blocked by gauze leaving only liquid in the tube.) Fill the rest of the tube with the solution, put a glass slide on top (being sure that the solution is slightly "bubbled" at the top so the slide collects whatever may be there) and put it in the spinner. At the other clinic we do the same process, but without the spinner. Either work fine as long as you give at least 10 minutes to sit which allows time for eggs, ect, to float to the top. They then stick to the glass slide which is put under the microscope to analyze. Simple, but you must have the right equipment.

I'm still in the learning process with the parasites myself, but so far I have one frog with strongyloides who was constipated for two weeks and otherwise normal poo before that; one who has strongyloides (and antibodies for giardia but no oocysts) who was normal and now has the runs; one who was treated for coccidiosis who went from normal to runny to normal to constipated (hasn't pooped in over 2 weeks-- honey bath time!) who recently tested positive for hook worm; and two more who started normal and within three days had unformed stool and gelatinous matter, they've been treated for coccidiosis and now hook worm; one of them (they live in same tank) has recently had a normally shaped but soft poo. So you can see there's a wide range of poo possibilities where the parasites are concerned.

I've found that frogs can go after every feeding, or once a week, or longer and still seem to be perfectly normal... at the two week mark I start thinking of those honey baths if softer foods like night crawlers or wax worms aren't bringing results, though.

I think I read in a reptile article on fecals that they wait 20 minutes on the float, but everything you said is spot on for the test from what I have learned. I have a supply house lined up through a Bearded Dragon site, so getting materials/equipment shouldn't be a problem.