New to ACF ownership...Recently upgraded my frog's tank and have some Q's.

[Doug]

Anyone?

Xenopus do change color, darker is generally a better sign than lighter. Lighter can mean the frog is sick-- sometimes. Sink a large, wide clay saucer into the gravel to put food. This is the best method to feed xenopus and hymenochirus in my experience. I wouldn't worry about the frog spending more time on the bottom. Sometimes a sick frog will spend MORE time near the top too, but it depends.

One last thing: clawed frogs should be kept 76 degrees or below. Too warm of water can make xenopus more susceptible to bacterial infection.

Xenopus were my first frogs I ever kept but from experience, they are more susceptible to bacterial infections because they are touchy about water temperature and quality.

[lbecktell]

Xenopus do change color, darker is generally a better sign than lighter. Lighter can mean the frog is sick-- sometimes. Sink a large, wide clay saucer into the gravel to put food. This is the best method to feed xenopus and hymenochirus in my experience. I wouldn't worry about the frog spending more time on the bottom. Sometimes a sick frog will spend MORE time near the top too, but it depends.

One last thing: clawed frogs should be kept 76 degrees or below. Too warm of water can make xenopus more susceptible to bacterial infection.

Xenopus were my first frogs I ever kept but from experience, they are more susceptible to bacterial infections because they are touchy about water temperature and quality.

Thank you so much!!!

I purchased two terra-cotta dishes for him. And recently went onto xenopus.com and purchased some sinking frog food which he may enjoy more than his grow-a-frog food, as well as some earthworm pellets and freeze-dried bloodworms.

Should I be adding a preventative anti-bacterial enzyme (like Lymnozyme) to his water to ward off any infection?

[Doug]

Thank you so much!!!

I purchased two terra-cotta dishes for him. And recently went onto xenopus.com and purchased some sinking frog food which he may enjoy more than his grow-a-frog food, as well as some earthworm pellets and freeze-dried bloodworms.

Should I be adding a preventative anti-bacterial enzyme (like Lymnozyme) to his water to ward off any infection?

I wouldn't do that. Bacteria are notorious for developing resistance to antibiotics. Just make sure to watch the temperature in the summer time. I don't recommend freeze dried bloodworms to pipid frogs. There have been reports of dwarf frogs getting bacterial infections / bloating from freeze dried worms. Use frozen worms that you can thaw in a cup.

Use sinking frog food as the staple, and supplement with crickets, worms, and pieces of lean beef, chicken or fish. Gelatin based food works well too, but it can be messy. I used to feed Silurana tropicalis a gelatin based food that I made myself.

If you plan to get more types of frogs-- something that many new frog keepers are unaware of-- always keep anything that comes in contact with Xenopus separate. Xenopus are carriers of chytrid which is lethal to many other frogs including dwarf frogs.

[CJP32]

Sounds like a nice upgrade for your frog. I'm pretty new to keeping them but I can say I had river rock in the tank when they were small. It was nearly impossible to clean without removing or moving it around quite a bit. Now I have natural play sand and it's much easier to maintain. Looks nice too.

[lbecktell]

I wish I'd talked to you guys before upgrading! He loves the river rock but again, hard to keep clean. Would getting some shrimps help a bit? And maybe a battery powered gravel vacuum?

[Mentat]

Hello and welcome to FF! The easiest way to keep tank bottom clean with pebbles is to... remove the pebbles . Myself recommend for all aquatic frogs a bare bottom. You can use sugar sized sand; but that adds other issues as most gravel cleaners will suck it up. Also, if filters can suck it, it will clog pads and can damage impellers.

Not dyed night crawlers (Walmart or a local bait shop) are the best food you can give a large aquatic frog. Hope this helps and good luck !

[lbecktell]

Thank you for the reply!!! I did post another thread, but was wondering if you could offer some tips for me on water maintenance. I saw on one site someone does 30% water changes weekly. Another site says 75% often. Would like to know what is "right"and how to know when it's time for a water change. Water is SUPER clear right now but there is minor detritus on the tank.

I'll pick up some nightcrawlers for him tonight after class!!!

My Fluval 306 is rated for a 70 gal tank and i have a little clear area around the intake where rocks cannot get in. It is also frog safe...he swims around and under it all the time and is not the least bit sucked towards it. I'm going to update this thread later tonight with pics of his beautiful tank so you can all see and tell me if I need to rearrange!

Also...any recommendations on good books on care to purchase?