Trouble in the Enclosure

[infamouschris7]

1. Recently switched from 10 to 20 gallon
2. Single pacman
3. Have a humidity gauge that reads normal
4. 78-80 degrees
5. Tap water with conditioner bought from petsmart
6. Recently addded moss. Coco fiber already in tank
7. Coco fiber on bottom. Moss on the side with some artificial plants and a water bowl
8. Crickets and superworms
9. Not sure about the vitamins part
10. Bulb bought from petsmart. Kept on during the day and turned off at night till next morning
11. My room is the warmest room in the house. The bulb produces some heat
12. 2 days ago. Tiny frozen pinkie. Got him to open his mouth and put it completely in his mouth
13. Not lately
14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
15. Have had the frog since mid february. Not sure about the actual age, but was smaller than a quarter then
16. Since February
17. Captive bred
18. Whenever i can get it to eat
19. I occasionally move him in his water bowl if he hasnt gone in it.
20. Low traffice
21. I clean the fiber once a month and clean his bowl each time after i place him in the water

[Ivan M]

1. Recently switched from 10 to 20 gallon
2. Single pacman
3. Have a humidity gauge that reads normal
4. 78-80 degrees
5. Tap water with conditioner bought from petsmart
6. Recently addded moss. Coco fiber already in tank
7. Coco fiber on bottom. Moss on the side with some artificial plants and a water bowl
8. Crickets and superworms
9. Not sure about the vitamins part
10. Bulb bought from petsmart. Kept on during the day and turned off at night till next morning
11. My room is the warmest room in the house. The bulb produces some heat
12. 2 days ago. Tiny frozen pinkie. Got him to open his mouth and put it completely in his mouth
13. Not lately
14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
15. Have had the frog since mid february. Not sure about the actual age, but was smaller than a quarter then
16. Since February
17. Captive bred
18. Whenever i can get it to eat
19. I occasionally move him in his water bowl if he hasnt gone in it.
20. Low traffice
21. I clean the fiber once a month and clean his bowl each time after i place him in the water

Ok i will try and be of some help here, I WOULD remove the Moss, Moss can cause impaction in the frogs gut and could lead to problems, coco fiber is all that is needed, when you say Humidity meter reads NORMAL, what is normal? the humidity level should be around 80% or so. In terms of the vitamins part you should dust your crickets with a vitamin supplement EX: REPASHY CALCIUM PLUS, or something equivalent. There is no need for you to place your froggy in the water, they will go in there on their own, remember the more you handle him/her the more stress you may be causing, also if i were you i would put him back in that 10 gallon tank, a 20 gallon for him alone is way to big. You can always split that 20 down the line with plexiglass or something and keep 2 pacmans in there, separate from each other of course but in 1 tank, hence the divider of the tank. The mouse thing should only be fed once a month if that. Earthworms/nightcrawlers are the best meal for these guys, you can cut up an earth worm into 3rds and feed appropriately. Also remember when they are moved to a new enclosure like you stated it may take them a little while to feel secure enough again to settle down and start to eat. But i would seriously reconsider keeping him alone in such a large 20 gallon for his size. Even for an adult a 20 is pretty large and most keepers will keep a large pacman in just a 5 gallon, or perhaps at max a 10 gallon.

[IvoryReptiles]

IvanM has given some great advice already.
Lights are not needed, they are mostly for show. But please remember these are NOCTURNAL frogs......they hide all day and feed at night. They will need calcium & vitamin supplements provided by you......do them separately and not at the same time. Dust calcium one feeding, vitamins the next & skip 2 days. Too much of a good thing is bad.
Do not feed superworms as a staple! They can & will cause impaction. Remove the moss. Humidity should be 80% or higher.
Temps should be no lower than 76 & no higher than 82.
When you feed the earthworm with tongs......tease him with it....wiggle it and tickle his lips with it. Yeah, it's silly looking and all, but if you're not willing to make the effort, then why bother having the animal?

I hope all our advice helps! Good Luck & keep us posted.

[GrifTheGreat]

The advice given by Ivan and Jess is spot on. Follow it to a T and keep us posted.

[infamouschris7]

So I moved him to an even smaller tank where I originally kept my crickets and took out the moss. I did what you said by wiggling the worm in his face and he kept the worm in his mouth for a while until he either spit it out or the worm crawled out. I will try again either tonight or tomorrow.

[GrifTheGreat]

So I moved him to an even smaller tank where I originally kept my crickets and took out the moss. I did what you said by wiggling the worm in his face and he kept the worm in his mouth for a while until he either spit it out or the worm crawled out. I will try again either tonight or tomorrow.

If he is lethargic you can give him a de-chlorinated water bath with 2 to 3 drops of honey dissolved in it. the water level should be no deeper than up to your frogs chin. This will give a small energy boost and also reacts as a natural laxative in see he needs to poop.

Also a bath to consider is a UNFLAVORED PEDIALYTE BATH. Mix a solution at a 10 to 1 ratio. So for every 10 ounces of de-chlorinated water add 1 ounce of Flavored Pedialyte. Again water should be no deeper than chin level.

Note that for both baths the water should be Luke warm or just barely warm to the touch. Soaking duration for the honey bath is 10 to 15 minutes. Soaking duration for the Flavored Pedialyte bath is 20 minutes.

[GrifTheGreat]

If he is lethargic you can give him a de-chlorinated water bath with 2 to 3 drops of honey dissolved in it. the water level should be no deeper than up to your frogs chin. This will give a small energy boost and also reacts as a natural laxative in see he needs to poop.

Also a bath to consider is a UNFLAVORED PEDIALYTE BATH. Mix a solution at a 10 to 1 ratio. So for every 10 ounces of de-chlorinated water add 1 ounce of Flavored Pedialyte. Again water should be no deeper than chin level.

Note that for both baths the water should be Luke warm or just barely warm to the touch. Soaking duration for the honey bath is 10 to 15 minutes. Soaking duration for the Flavored Pedialyte bath is 20 minutes.

Make sure the Pedialyte is Unflavored.

[Taryn Cierra]

1. Size of enclosure: 5.5 gallons, but will be moved to a 10 gallon tank.
2. # of inhabitants - Only one, Clyde.
3. Humidity: Alway between 50-80 percent, but hovers around 65-70 percent most of the time.
4. Temperature: Day-80 degrees, night-70-75 degrees.
5. Water: Tap water treated with ReptiSafe. It is also put in a water pitcher so it can sit out. I refill the water pitcher when I use all the water in it. It is used for both water dish & misting.
6. Materials used for substrate: Eco Earth Coconut Fiber.
7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial): Right now he only has his fake, viney plant and a water dish. He did have half a hollow log, but I felt it took up to much space. Looking to add more artificial plants instead & maybe re-adding the log once he has a bigger tank. Everything was washed in hot water before being added.
8. Main food source: Gut-loaded large crickets.
9. Vitamins and calcium? Crickets are dusted once a week.
10. Lighting: While I am away, my bedroom light and when I am home I use his heat lamp on a low setting since it is already warm in my room.
11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure: Heat lamp if temperature drops below 75 degrees during the day. Otherwise its already warm enough in my room and keeps the tank temperature at 80 degrees.
12. When is the last time he/she ate: Since all his crickets decided to hide in his plants, he didnt eat until an hour ago (1:00 pm) when I shook his crickets free from his plant.
13. Have you found poop lately: Yes, a couple days ago.
14. Clyde:
Attachment 38746Attachment 38747
Clydes underside:
Attachment 38749Attachment 38748
His tank: The last picture is what it looks like when his log was in his tank.
Attachment 38750Attachment 38751Attachment 38752
15. How old is the frog: Not quite sure, he was the size of a silver dollar when I got him on my birthday, June 25th, 2012.
16. How long have you owned him/her: About three months.
17. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred: Captive bred I would believe since he was bought at PetSmart.
18. Frog food: I have not introduced anything other than crickets yet, not sure what else would be good to feed him. Also how big should they be before treating them to a pinky mouse here and there?
19. How often the frog is handled: Only when cage changes are due.
20. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area: I would believe low traffic until I get ready for bed usually.
21. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc): Water is changed every day when I get home from work, or in the morning if I have the day off. I check for waste, dead uneaten crickets daily and remove them, his water dish is cleaned with hot water during every water change, and he gets a complete cage change once a month but now I have decided to start changing it completely every two weeks instead. Plants and other objects are cleaned during the complete cage change, or if they looked pretty soiled and dirty.

Now, what I am worried about is that he may have Red Leg since he is pinkish underneath. No matter what I am going to schedule a vet appointment but would also like your input.