Considering a Pacman

[lilblack94gt]

Thanks! I thought that since they ate mice, that housing them together would not be a good idea. How large do they typically get, and what size viv is best for them? Any no no's I should know about, such as what substrates not to use, ect? Thanks again!

[GrifTheGreat]

Thanks! I thought that since they ate mice, that housing them together would not be a good idea. How large do they typically get, and what size viv is best for them? Any no no's I should know about, such as what substrates not to use, ect? Thanks again!

Coconut Fiber(not husk) is best. You can use moss but it is an impaction(severe constipation) risk unless you feed the frog in a separate enclosure which would involve a lot of handling of your frog which is not recommended. Due to the fact of the oils on your skin being harmful to the frogs skin and that handling causes stress. Handling of the frog should only be as necessary. Always wash your hands before and after handling your frog. Use a very mild cleanser and rinse well. Then rinse again with de-chlorinating_ water before handling your frog?

Rule of thumb for substrate dampness is moist or heavily damp not mud. If its too wet the frog will become ill. Change the substrate and clean the enclosure and furniture no less than once a month and no more than every 2 weeks. Keep the tank in a low traffic area that is rarely quiet. Cover 3 sides of the tank with some sort of background so the frog feels secure and not exposed. Babies should be kept in smaller exposures though. A medium critter keeper is a good choice because it is large enough to give your frog some space and there is room for a small shallow water dish. You can purchase a UTH(Under Tank Heater) made for hermit crab enclosures and place it on the back of the critter keeper.

Note that there are only 2 UTH safe for plastic and one is the Hermit Crab UTH and the other is Zoo Med UTH item# RH-7. These 2 are safe to place on your critter keeper. They will still state that they are only to be put on glass, but if you read the instruction page that comes with it, it will say that it is safe for plastic.

If a UTH does not provide enough heat you can also use a heat lamp as well to assist. Only buy one that has a dimmer switch so that you can accurately adjust the amount of heat and light produced by the bulb. Fluker's 5.5" Clamp Lamp with dimmer is best. When selecting a bulb do not go higher than 50 watts or you risk harming your frog. Never go below 25 watts because anything smaller will not be worth using due to the low wattage bulb not producing enough heat.

Note that if you get an Albino Pacman you cannot use any regular daylight basking bulbs or spotlight bulbs. You can only use Infrared bulbs and Moonlight Blue bulbs so the Albino Frog's eyes and skin are not damaged by the bright hot basking bulbs.

Pacman Frogs are nocturnal so you need to feed your frog at night. They need a 12 hour day/night cycle so like 7:00 am to 7:00 pm or 8:00 am to 8:00 pm. whichever works best. Babies should be Fed food items no larger than the distance between their eyes as a rule of thumb, which reduces a lot of over feeding issues as well as impaction risks. Dust the food items once a week with a reptile multivitamin and every other feeding with a calcium powder that contains Vitamin D3.

Note that you do not want to dust with both in the same feeding. They lose their effectiveness and are not absorbed by the frogs body properly if done so. The benefits are significantly less if used together mixed in the same feeding.

Water dish water level should be no deeper than half the frogs height and be able to allow for easy entry and exit.

I hope that this chunk of info will assist you and if I may have left something out one of the other experienced members or breeders will chime in and cover it.

[GrifTheGreat]

Depending on what species you get their size differs. Gender also affects how large the frog gets. Males are typically between 3" to 4" SVL( About to Vent Length). Females range from 4.25" to up to 6" with rare offshoot s of some reaching 8" SVL.

A male can live comfortably in a 12"x12"x12" or 12"x12"x18" for their entire lives after reaching mid juvenile stage in growth. Females need a larger enclosure. A female can live its entire life in a 10 gallon tank after mid juvenile stage.