Toads aren't going to be domesticated, exactly. They will get used to you being around, and they may take food from your fingers after a while, but that's about as good as it gets. Handling toads frequently is detrimental to them, since they absorb the salt and oil naturally found on our skin through their skin, so minimize it. A lot of handling may also stress them, since in nature the only large thing picking them up would be a predator attempting to eat them, and those defensive instincts die hard. If you notice your toad playing dead after being picked up, or peeing on you, that means it's very scared/stressed, so put it down right away.
As long as your toad has access to a shallow (water level only coming up to the toad's shoulders at most) dish of dechlorinated water to soak in, the humidity isn't a big deal. They are often found in rather dry environments in the wild, and just soak in puddles/creeks/lakes when they feel the need to to get hydrated. I wouldn't worry about the misting for the toad's sake. If you are growing live plants in the tank, they will need it, although toads tend to burrow a lot, so you need some tough plants that can take the abuse. One thing I will caution you about is the moss. It's probably fine if you use a separate feeding container, but it is an impaction risk if the toad ever swallows it accidentally.
Crickets that are narrower than your toad's head are a good staple food, and you can easily get them at most pet stores. It's better to err on the side of feeding a toad a lot of smaller food items than feeding it fewer of something that is too large. Isopods (wood lice, pill bugs, etc) are good too, if you can get some. You will want to use a supplemental powder every day for a young toad, and about once a week for an adult toad. I use this for mine:
Repashy Calcium ICB Plus 5.3 oz JAR - Alpha Pro Breeders
As far as the light/heat thing goes, I think it's a good idea to use a low-wattage bulb to give a toad the option of a warmer and cooler section of the tank, so it can regulate its own body temperature. Doing this also helps to reinforce the day/night cycle. I noticed mine were burying themselves in the substrate for most of the day before I made the light available, and they are out and about during the day more often now that it's there.
If your toad is still pushing up against the glass trying to get out, take some kind of paper and tape it to the back and sides of the aquarium (on the outside.) You can use wrapping paper, aquarium paper, or just cut up some paper grocery bags and flatten them into sheets. Anything to make it look solid. Doing this definitely helped my toads stop that behavior. It's great that you have such a big tank, as your toad will love the space! Hope to see more photos of it soon, and welcome to the forum!





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