That is too big. The food should only be as big as the space between your toad's eyes.
That is too big. The food should only be as big as the space between your toad's eyes.
2.0.3 Hyla versicolor "Eastern Gray Tree Frogs"
2.2.0 Agalychnis callidryas "Red Eyed Tree Frogs"
0.0.3 Dendrobates auratus "Turquoise and Bronze"
0.0.1 Anaxyrus fowleri "Fowler's Toad"
Oh, well what will happen now? I noticed he seemed to "swallow" many times?
Just keep an eye on him and make sure he poops.
2.0.3 Hyla versicolor "Eastern Gray Tree Frogs"
2.2.0 Agalychnis callidryas "Red Eyed Tree Frogs"
0.0.3 Dendrobates auratus "Turquoise and Bronze"
0.0.1 Anaxyrus fowleri "Fowler's Toad"
Okay, will do.
I may be getting a Pacman frog, so if I do, I may release the toad, still not sure.
If you're debating releasing it, I would do it now then. It's too young to get accustomed to even temps and having his food handed to him to go back out in the wild after more than a few days. Otherwise pick up a cheap tank and care for them bothI love my little toadlets now, they are a lot of fun!
2.0.3 Hyla versicolor "Eastern Gray Tree Frogs"
2.2.0 Agalychnis callidryas "Red Eyed Tree Frogs"
0.0.3 Dendrobates auratus "Turquoise and Bronze"
0.0.1 Anaxyrus fowleri "Fowler's Toad"
Toads aren't going to be domesticated, exactly. They will get used to you being around, and they may take food from your fingers after a while, but that's about as good as it gets. Handling toads frequently is detrimental to them, since they absorb the salt and oil naturally found on our skin through their skin, so minimize it. A lot of handling may also stress them, since in nature the only large thing picking them up would be a predator attempting to eat them, and those defensive instincts die hard. If you notice your toad playing dead after being picked up, or peeing on you, that means it's very scared/stressed, so put it down right away.
As long as your toad has access to a shallow (water level only coming up to the toad's shoulders at most) dish of dechlorinated water to soak in, the humidity isn't a big deal. They are often found in rather dry environments in the wild, and just soak in puddles/creeks/lakes when they feel the need to to get hydrated. I wouldn't worry about the misting for the toad's sake. If you are growing live plants in the tank, they will need it, although toads tend to burrow a lot, so you need some tough plants that can take the abuse. One thing I will caution you about is the moss. It's probably fine if you use a separate feeding container, but it is an impaction risk if the toad ever swallows it accidentally.
Crickets that are narrower than your toad's head are a good staple food, and you can easily get them at most pet stores. It's better to err on the side of feeding a toad a lot of smaller food items than feeding it fewer of something that is too large. Isopods (wood lice, pill bugs, etc) are good too, if you can get some. You will want to use a supplemental powder every day for a young toad, and about once a week for an adult toad. I use this for mine:
Repashy Calcium ICB Plus 5.3 oz JAR - Alpha Pro Breeders
As far as the light/heat thing goes, I think it's a good idea to use a low-wattage bulb to give a toad the option of a warmer and cooler section of the tank, so it can regulate its own body temperature. Doing this also helps to reinforce the day/night cycle. I noticed mine were burying themselves in the substrate for most of the day before I made the light available, and they are out and about during the day more often now that it's there.
If your toad is still pushing up against the glass trying to get out, take some kind of paper and tape it to the back and sides of the aquarium (on the outside.) You can use wrapping paper, aquarium paper, or just cut up some paper grocery bags and flatten them into sheets. Anything to make it look solid. Doing this definitely helped my toads stop that behavior. It's great that you have such a big tank, as your toad will love the space! Hope to see more photos of it soon, and welcome to the forum!
Last edited by nicodimus22; August 8th, 2011 at 05:42 PM.
Wonderful little tank set up.
I'd get the "small" crickets from a petstore for now or put some wet sheets of cardboard down in muddy patches in your yard or under bushes; these will gather pill bugs in massive numbers, which I find are a wonderful staple food for young growing toads. If you do get crickest I'd suggest getting a lid because they will jump out.
As far as the light or basking lamp goes I'm firmly against it, just keep the tank in a room with some natural sunlight and they will do just fine. Toads, especially American or Fowler after all are nocturnal creatures and usually don't come out during the day anyway so they would advoid any direct light like that.
My best advice is to keep the soil moist enough around the plants to keep them growing but don't go over board with keeping the soil wet for the toad. I notice the drier the substrate is the more they move around, come out to eat, pop on over to the pool to keep moist.
Let me pose this question: if you give them the choice, and *they* choose the light/warmth, how is that a bad thing? In the wild, toads have the choice to burrow or stay above ground, to move into a drier or wetter area, and to move into the sunlight or into the shade, right? I have seen a picture of toads stacked up on top of each other directly under a spotlight, and sometimes my own toads go and sit on the warm rock under the light of their own accord. It seems that at least sometimes, they prefer it. Clearly, you don't want to go overboard with it, but I don't really see the harm in using a low-wattage spotlight in one part of the tank and seeing how they respond, especially in a room that is not very bright in the first place. It seems to me it would probably help reinforce the natural day/night cycle, if nothing else.
One the topic of the "toads are nocturnal" thing, I have a couple of thoughts about that. It would seem to me that if these were strictly nocturnal creatures, they would be repulsed by/hide from the light rather than being drawn to it. Also, on the day I found my toads, they were hopping all over the place in the middle of the day, which doesn't seem like the behavior of a truly nocturnal animal either. I have seen information that says they can be active during the daytime as well:
Fowler's Toad - North Carolina
Also, this study specifically focused on Bufonids (bufo boreas) and their tendency to thermoregulate in the lab or in nature by basking:
ESA Online Journals - The Role of Behavioral Thermoregulation in the Growth Energetics of the Toad, Bufo Boreas
Some other members here at Frog Forum have also commented that basking seems to promote rapid growth, which I am also seeing in my toadlets right now. Some discussion in this topic on the subject:
http://www.frogforum.net/toads/8993-i-love-toads.html
Anyway, that's why I'm using a light. It seems logically sound to me, and some others seem to have success with it as well. As long as you're not overheating your toads in a place where they can't get away, or using too strong a light, I don't see the issue.
Great points Pete! I agree with the lighting as well, I just have to get a new hood for my tank. As for people stating that they are "nocturnal", I think toads are more or less a nocturnal hunter, rather than a nocturnal animal, you see toads hopping around in the day time, but at night you see many more, and I think this is due to the times they hunt.
What wattage light do you use for your toads?
Thanks![]()
You may find a clip-on light or some simple, single bulb apparatus is better than an aquarium hood for light. That way you can focus it in a isolated basking area for your toad. I'm all in favor of trying a basking light, but you do have to be careful to avoid dehydration. Some things to remember is a low wattage bulb, many hiding areas away from the light, and a well maintained water dish. Also there are probably differences between toad species and their preference for a heat source.
Yes, I was thinking of trying a clip-on light, how long should the light be left on? I don't have to actualy leave it on 12-hours a day, couldn't I just give it 20min here and there of light to warm up in, obvisouly if I came to shut the light off and seen the toad "basking" in it, I would leave it on, but I don't like leaving lights on for long periods of time, even if there low wattage.
Well, I'm not sure a hood light is such a good idea, because it would be lighting/heating the whole tank evenly. What I am doing is providing a range of conditions in the tank by using a 50W spotlight. There is only an area of maybe 4 or 5 inches on the tank floor that is "sunny" where the light is focused. The toads can easily move in or out of this area, or go to a hide of cooler temps and almost complete darkness if they want to. It's a gradient.
I would recommend getting a heat-resistant screen lid and a 5.5" reflector lamp rather than a hood with a light. As for how long to leave it on, the way I look at it is that I'm simulating the light and warmth of sunlight. The sunlight isn't full strength all day in nature, but it is for at least a few hours in the middle of the day. You could always put it on a timer if you're not going to be there or don't want to be bothered with turning it on and off.
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