Display Paludarium Build

[VicSkimmr]

Yup, here's the pic I got of it


It's very bizarre. I would have expected a crack to span the entire pane of glass if it was caused by pressure. I was ecstatic to find out it wasn't my silicone job that caused it though.

[7urb0]

did you have the tank laying bare against the stand? its hard to tell from the pics. usually with a rimless tank there should always be a cloth of some sort between the tank and stand. the reason is that even a tiny grain of rock can crack a tank if the tank was on it.

[VicSkimmr]

Hmm, yeah I didn't have any foam under it. Man I bets that's exactly what caused it. That was an incredibly stupid mistake (since I should have known better).

[Poly]

Amazing build! I really need to get a 50mm lens, my 300mm just dosen't cut it for close up shots... well, actually it does, I just have to be 20+ feet away...

[Heatheranne]

What a beautiful build! It's gorgeous! I enjoyed reading through this thread. Thanks!

[UncleChester]

Hmm, yeah I didn't have any foam under it. Man I bets that's exactly what caused it. That was an incredibly stupid mistake (since I should have known better).

The usual assembly plan on a frameless tank has the bottom pane of glass raised up off the ground a few milimeters, this should protect from the small stuff you can't see. More of a gap might be needed as the tank gets bigger, especially with such a water load, glass does bend slightly little before is busts.

Did you check if the glass was thick enough to hold that amount of water? Most of the online calculators seem to be based on Calculating Glass Thickness for Aquariums but this webpage has a different calculation for the base of the tank than the sides that is ignored in all the calculators I've seen. In their sample calculation (for a giant 3'x9' tank) their base had to be nearly 50% thicker than the side panels. They also mention some kind of "self-leveling filler" will help you get away with a thinner base.

Either way, major bummer.

Amazing build! I really need to get a 50mm lens, my 300mm just dosen't cut it for close up shots... well, actually it does, I just have to be 20+ feet away...

Nothing beats a macro lens and the know how to use it for close ups. I don't think I'd like a 50mm for frog close-ups though, I use a 100mm and would often like to be furthur away. Just my preference though.

[Mentat]

Congratulations on your gorgeous vivarium, just read your whole thread. Was worried when saw the size of it and read was made of 1/4 in. plate... then the sad news on post 65 came. Your choice of keeping it without water is probably the best since replacing that bottom plate is a major project with set-up done and frogs in. Couple of things to think (if not done already) for future similar projects based on my aquarium experience:

- Use online calculator that considers tank length and width. Also, treat paludarium as a rimless tank with water height as tank height.

- Use tempered glass for bottom plate (major aquarium manufacturers do for a reason).

- Use high-strenght SCS1200 silicone for construction (http://www.siliconeforbuilding.com/p...nstruction.pdf). It's fish safe once cured; but not sure it's dart frog safe. Maybe asking here or doing test in small enclosure before using in large project is best.

- Use foam board between tank and stand to absorb vibrations and irregularities.

Looking forward to see more pictures of this set-up, good luck with frogs and cheers!

[7urb0]

The usual assembly plan on a frameless tank has the bottom pane of glass raised up off the ground a few milimeters, this should protect from the small stuff you can't see. More of a gap might be needed as the tank gets bigger, especially with such a water load, glass does bend slightly little before is busts.

um im not sure where you get this from but the bottom piece should always lay flat on the stand and all side pieces should be built on top.

[UncleChester]

um im not sure where you get this from but the bottom piece should always lay flat on the stand and all side pieces should be built on top.

It's called a "floating glass bottom" and protects against point forces from small debris especially in a frameless tank. It's how my commercial tanks are made as well (though the largest of these I have is 20 gallons). I understand the calculations in the link I gave above give the glass thickness for the bottom piece assuming it is not supported from below, as in the floating approach and/or with a frame. If you can ensure your stand is perfectly level and clean (or use some kind of filler), then I understand the capped approach works too.

I've never made anything this size or to hold this much water, so if you've got information on why the floating approach wouldn't work here with a strong enough bottom pane, I'd love to hear it. I'm sure I've read it's also used in bigger tanks than this, but I could be mistaken.

[Kristen87]

Wow this tank is amazing!! Sorry about your cracked panel mishap. Still looks incredible though
I've just bought a 6 footer (picking it up this weekend... pretty excited! ) than I'm planning to turn into a paludarium with a false bottom so I can have some community fish in there too, so thanks for sharing your experience so I know to get myself some foam for under the tank!

Question for you, what aquatic plants did you have? It looks like java fern on the left? Did you pick plants that do okay without much light because of the distance they are from the top or did you get a stronger light or find another way to get the UV to them? (Or did you just chuck them in and hope for the best hehe).

If my tank turns out just a fraction as nice as yours looks I'd be over the moon, did I mention it looks amazing?? :P