White's Tree Frog Questions

[Crystal6]

I checked out the caresheet for White's Tree Frogs but I still have some questions, some of which will sound very newb-ish so please be patient with me. I figure I should probably start asking questions BEFORE I go out and buy one.

Question 1: I'm used to frogs having to hibernate. Would it be safe to assume these kinds of frogs never do? (Because they are native to a warmer climate?)

Question 2: Would exposure to temperatures around 69 for extended periods of time be unsafe? (In crickets lower temperatures increase the lifespan. Is it the same in frogs?)

Question 3: This one is kinda stupid but just to be sure... I’ve heard its skin has antibiotic/antivirus-like properties. Is there any danger to someone with an allergy to penicillin? (I don’t know the technicalities of what exactly the chemicals in its skin consist of and it would be a shame if my friend ended up in the hospital from my pet.)

Question 4: I’ve heard there’s a danger of overfeeding it, but the care sheet isn’t very specific of how much to feed. (I saw one person advertising that “it only requires 2 crickets a day”) Would 2 crickets a day be too many or not enough?

Question 5: If you’ve seen my introductory topic you probably know that I had a problem with my last frog in which it drowned. Would that be a danger with White’s Tree Frogs? (Do they usually have a lot of trouble climbing out or swimming?) I've had wood frogs before and they seemed to have no trouble even though their cage basically consisted of an island surrounded by very deep water.

Thank you in advance.

[into]

I'm still learning as I go, but I can try to give an answer to a couple of your questions:


1: I don't believe they hibernate, and if they do, they wouldn't under constant warm temperatures in captivity.

2: 69 is too cool for them and may cause digestion problems. Upper 80s during the day and 70s at night is best for them.

3: I don't have a clue, but my hands are get very dry after handling them (I have sensitive skin) just make sure you wash your hands good after handling them.

4: As you may have read, it's very much touch and go. I fed my juvenile 2 to 3 crickets a night but noticed he was getting too chubby. Now he only gets a couple every couple nights. If the ridges over his/her brows get big and start to cover it's eyes, then they need to be on a diet.

5: I read somewhere that white's are buoyant, but I wouldn't risk it. A bowl of water that isn't any deeper than it's umm neck (if they have one) should be more than enough water.

Hope this helps a little

[Kurt]

1. No, they do no brumate.

2. 69 is an ok temperture for night time.

3. It shouldn't be a problem, but if you are overly concerned you can always wear surgical gloves when handling the frog.

4. Two a day is fine. I feed mine once a week. About two dozen are given to my two at that time.

5. Mine are in a tank with fish, no problem. Most treefrogs have no problem getting in an out of water. If they do, they have something seriously wrong with them.

[Crystal6]

1. No, they do no brumate.

2. 69 is an ok temperture for night time.

3. It shouldn't be a problem, but if you are overly concerned you can always wear surgical gloves when handling the frog.

4. Two a day is fine. I feed mine once a week. About two dozen are given to my two at that time.

5. Mine are in a tank with fish, no problem. Most treefrogs have no problem getting in an out of water. If they do, they have something seriously wrong with them.

Would the temperature need to be hotter in daytime? Winter is approaching here and it costs a lot to keep the temperature above 70. (I have heatlamps for the crickets though and could always use one for the frog(s) if absolutely neccessary)

[Kurt]

Day time temps should be at least 77 degrees, but a temperture range of 80 to 85 would be ideal.

[Archeopterix]

1) my frog is in his late teens and has never hibertnated/brumated.

2) If your house gets to 69 or so I would provide a heat source such as a lamp available.

3) I have a penacillin allergy and have never had a reaction when handling my White's. That is no garuntee that you won't though, allergies are finicky things. If you want to be sure, ask at the store or herp club if you can handle one.

Wash hands before and after you hold frogs. I saw someone say after but it is important to wash before holding a frog as our natural skin oils burn frogs skin. White's have a special waxy coat to their skin that allows them to handle and survive drying out longer than other species of frogs, but it's best to be careful.

4) I give my whites lots of 25 or so crickets every 2 weeks, although now that he's old it takes him longer than 2 weeks to finish them all. I make a little "cricket habitat" that he can't access so they can survive in there too for as long as they need to.

5)My White's is in a 27 Hex aquarium and his pond is 3 inches deep and I have rocks layered at a slope so he (and the crickets that might fall in) can get out. He seems to be able to handle the vertical shale walls of the pond and aquarium glass just as easily though. I get a few drowned crickets each time so it's best to keep an eye out for those (and frog poops) so they don't spoil the water.

Tree frogs are escape artists, and White's are very smart. I originally kept him in a 10 gallon aquarium and he kept escaping no matter if I taped the lid down or what, its still a mystery to how he got out with the entire lid taped up with packing tape. Same as when I upped him to a 15. Then I got a 27 gallon hex and he hasn't tried to escape since. I guess he just wanted more room.

[into]

Tree frogs are escape artists, and White's are very smart. I originally kept him in a 10 gallon aquarium and he kept escaping no matter if I taped the lid down or what, its still a mystery to how he got out with the entire lid taped up with packing tape...

this is very true, all of my tree frogs have escaped several times and I'm still working on modifications to keep them in. Both of my whites have escaped recently by pushing through the ventilation areas. one has a screen top and the other has egg crate fit into the opening. both can be pushed through with force and I never would guess these guys had much strength. My green tree frogs have ventured far away but were found, but luckily each time the Whites got out, they just hung around on top of their homes. Since I'm using converted fish tanks, I have recently doubled up screen and eggcrate barriers.