Atelopus hoogmoedi - Vivarium

[clownonfire]

Through the roof!

Around 90%.

Tonight, I added bark to the vivarium. I tried sticking it with silicone, but as the bark was too uneven, it was hard to stick a large surface on the glass.

So I reverted to foam. And foam worked.

EDIT: I've been suggested to perhaps lower the humidity. It was hinted that 65-85% could be a better range.

[clownonfire]

I have received the toads today. They will be at my friend's house until May 17th. I have been trying to find proper information for the tank. People on DB have been helpful, thank you. And I was invited on a Facebook group on the Atelopus spumarius by one of their mod so I can have accurate info on the best environment. Here's info I'd like to share back.

Big thanks again to Ed Kowalski and Shawn Harrington.

On humidity:

Ed: "You can have decent air flow and still have a decent relative humidity. I'm not sure what people keep thier tintorius in 90% plus humidity as outside of a rainstorm or microniches it doesn't usually get that high where the frogs are from.. for example in the Sipilawini Savannah area the average RH is between 60-85% and that is with air flow....

These guys migrate up and away from the streams.
I kept the toads initially in ten gallon tanks with only half of the tank covered with a sheet of glass to keep the humidity up with some hides for the toads if they wanted a higher RH. Later I kept them in verticle ten gallons with a 3 inch vent screen and a fan that would blow air past the front of the tank encouraging air exchange."

Shawn: I have found mine to 'seem' happier with a high humidity environment and some available water, even in the QT container.

There you go. Out of respect for the hobbyists that are helping me, I will not repost info anymore. So once I am set and my tank is done, I will try and work on a care sheet. This will not be done in time for the contest.

Eric

[Ebony]

Wow! Eric..You really have been busy .

[bshmerlie]

This is great info Eric. Any ideas out there on why the male to female ratio would be so extreme? It would think it would be very difficult if not impossible to ever get them established in the hobby with a 25 to 1 ratio.

[clownonfire]

This is great info Eric. Any ideas out there on why the male to female ratio would be so extreme? It would think it would be very difficult if not impossible to ever get them established in the hobby with a 25 to 1 ratio.

I have read that some females die during amplexus because of the length of it. Some other females also when gravid and if they do not release the eggs. I'll make sure I write back if and when I get more on this.

There are currently efforts in gathering Atelopus owners, with the list of what they own to see if breeding efforts can be combined.

[clownonfire]

From Ed: The reason you are seeing such high sex ratios is that they are collecting from the streams as when the toads aren't ready to breed they are dispersed widely up and away from the streams. The females only approach the streams when they are ready to lay eggs. So you are going to see a high sex ratio.

[clownonfire]

On the vivarium build, I have met lots of wonderful and extremely helpful hobbyists on the Facebook group I'm on. One of them, Corey, suggests the following for the build:

These guys like a slightly lower humidity than most darts (open canopy over streams allow for a slightly drier/more airflow niche) so they are a little less forgiving about stagnant airflow. I don't go for specific numbers, but aim for spraying the tank down, and having the leaves of plants and the glass dry within 1-2 hours. This is more than just humidity, this is also air movement... you can have high humidity that does this as long as you MOVE it. Small computer fans are ideal for this.

I'd think a nice heavy mist/rain in the morning, let it dry out more around noon and into afternoon, and maybe another mist at night (tho turning the fan off a few hours before lights off can have a similar affect maybe?). This idea was recommended by Ed K the last time I could harass him in person.

The spotlights mentioned in past posts also seem like they are important. Ideally it would be a dry rock/plant leaf that is warmer, and gives them access to UV rays. I prefer rock (not wood, it won't totally be dry because it will wick water from other parts of the tank, and I tend to burn plants when I do this) and I won't allow anything to grow on that spot so they have a place with no moisture. This will help with some of the bacterial infections common to wet tanks. Also helps if this rock is near the fan.

h, and aim for a basking spot for each male - they will pick a territory and defend it, leaving the other male **** out of luck. Use a lot of nice chunky rocks (what most of our set ups have been missing) and when they have their ideal spots you'll know where to put your basking lights. If they seem to have a territory without a basking spot, move your lights.

Thank you Corey. You continue to be very helpful and i am looking forward to reading more on the care sheets you are getting ready on these.

[clownonfire]

Alright. The core of the tank is done. Hydro balls, soil, coconut husk and plants. I have chosen plants that have big leaves so that the Atelopus spumarius could perch on at night.

I have also build two basking areas, at two different poles of the tank. I've used medium to large rocks, all of them have been boiled. I have also used smaller rocks to fill up the cracks. I have also put a few branches (cooked) sticking out amongst the rocks. It was suggested to keep these sections dryer, and install basking lights over them. That is tomorrow's project.

Springtails will be seeded tomorrow.