Enhancing / changing colour

[Jenste]

Hi,
in response - - an albino will stay albino. Albinism is a mutation at the genetic level. They have no pigmentation, so there is no way to enhance their pigmentation.

For pigmented xenopus - natural/marbled, reticulated albino, etc....their colors will look "better" if they are healthy. A healthy frog is a gorgeous frog - the skin is healthy so their colors are vibrant.

A quality diet and a clean and properly sized environment are key.
for Xenopus - - 1 frog = 10 gallons, 2 frogs = 20 gallons OR 3 frogs can be in a 20 gallon IF and ONLY IF it is a 20 gallon LONG. A high or standard model is only suitable for 2 frogs.

Once you go over 30 gallons, you have have more frogs in smaller ratios to gallons due to increased water volume and floor space.

It is also important to properly filter the tank - this is actually a newer concept to most frog owners, but with a background beginning in fish, I have learned the invaluable importance of a properly cycled filtration system and its importance to a healthy environment. With out a mature filter, there is nothing to process the waste and the frog is left literally swimming in its own filth. Water changes are important of course, but there is always some waste in the tank (pee, poo, uneaten food from over feeding...) and in just a few hours ammonia levels can climb to lethal amounts. Hence the importance of having a cycled filter which can process the ammonia.

Read here for more info - - http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/begin-cycling.html


I saw you already noticed my response in another post about Xenopus Express - they are your best bets for color morphs in the UK.


As for diet, balance is key. Here is what I do for my own frog colony -
Primarily fed on ReptoMin sticks, treated with frozen bloodworms (thaw in a separate container prior to feeding), store bought earthworms cut to bite size. Use store bought, not live caught in your garden. You have no way of knowing what, if any, fertilizers the worm has come into contact with and it is not worth the risk of poisoning your frog to save a little money on "free" worms. Cut the worm in half (or smaller if younger frogs), squeeze out the "dirt" (worm waste), rinse off and then toss in the tank and watch them eat with gusto!!!

I only feed frozen bloodworms sparingly because they go so fast. An adult ACF can easily eat 1-1.5 cubes...and with all of my frogs that equals A LOT of cubes! A package of bloodworms goes by very fast in my house!

Ok, now a list of what NOT to feed! Anything meant for fish - fish flakes, pellets, algae wafers, etc. Frogs are not fish and they have a different digestive system and dietary needs than fish. (You don't feed bird seed to your cat's, right?) Also, avoid anything freeze-dried. Freeze-dried foods are pretty much void of any nutritional value and cause blockage and constipation. So what's the point. Finally - do not feed store-bought feeder fish. Considering the little to no money the store makes off these fish, they are not well cared for and are often riddled with disease (what is the point of caring for a fish with a death sentence??). It is not worth the risk feeding them to the frogs as a cheap meal when you can risk infecting your whole tank with one sick little fish. Also, goldfish and minnows stop the frogs ability to absorb the B-enzyme...so besides being a poor choice due to risk of disease, they actually disrupt the frogs internal chemical balance....not worth it!!!

I used to and I know some who raise their own feeders and I will do so again once we move into our new house and have room for a few tanks dedicated to feeders.
The best and easiest way is guppies - you raise your own and they breed like crazy. Once the new fry (baby fish) are 4-8 months old they are perfect size for eating (you can feed smaller fish to smaller frogs, but the larger frogs have more fun hunting the bigger ones).

[Jack]

Thanks Jenna.

Tried xenopus (France) but they wont import to the UK unless i'm a dealer, pet store owner etc.