Care Sheet / Meet the Frog Contest- April-May

[Kurt]

I would add to this by saying, you can use photos off of the internet providing you have written permission from the owner of said material (we will need to see it too). Also include a bibliography with your article.

Also, I would prefer to keep this to just care articles. Meet the Frog is kind of my baby. The series is about the natural history of a given species and is meant to introduce members to species they may not have known otherwise. If the species is within the trade, then basic care can be briefly mentioned, but again this is not the purpose of the series. Just to let you know, there are already 13 articles in the pipeline already just waiting to be published, including one by herpetologist Frank Indiviglio.

[pez]

I will be part of this one. Well, I was already working on a Meet the frog article about Smilisca phaeota, but I will make a care sheet for Trachycephalus venulosa.

[bshmerlie]

[COLOR=black]I would add to this by saying, you can use photos off of the internet providing you have written permission from the owner of said material (we will need to see it too).

I personally would like to see your own original photos or work with other members here to fill in gaps that you may need. This will get members to get to know each other. Remember everyone this is not just about care articles. It is also about learning, sharing information and getting to know each other. Its about being a part of the frog forum community. This is not a frog bribe to get more care articles for the forum.. The contests that I sponsor are all designed to get people to participate in ways that they might have feared to do prior. When I first came to frog forum I always thought it was some secret team that drove the direction of the forum. But the longer you are here the more you realize its all of us that make this forum special. I am actually frog bribing just to get people out of there shells. We had a lot of new members build some fantastic tanks in the last contest....now im quite sure there are some new members here that would love to write about their frogs.

[Kisa]

I've had the idea to start writing care articles for some of the frogs that aren't featured here on the forum already to give people some information privately in case it's hard to find (i.e. Phyllomedusa tomopterna and Clown Tree Frogs: I could find barely ANY information on these two species, but through collaboration with a breeder I was able to get some good, solid, and trustworthy information.) So this contest is a great outlet for me in my search for knowledge and my desire to help others with theirs.

I also think, as Cheri said, that this is a great way to get people involved with the forum and to know more about the frogs they choose to write on. As of now I know nothing about breeding P. tomopterna, but I will by the time this contest is over, and who knows, in the future this may inspire me to start breeding myself.

Not to mention that prize, as I said before. >> The frog bribe is much appreciated, Cheri, I hope you know that. XD;

[berksmike]

Captive Care of the Phantasmal Dart Frog (Epipedobates tricolor and Epipedobates anthonyi)



The Phantasmal Dart Frog covers two species of dart frogs that originate from the El Oro, Azuay, and Loja provinces of southwestern Ecuador and the Piura, and Tumbes departments of northwestern Peru.
E. anthonyi is generally located in south-western Ecuador (Salvia, El Oro Province), while E. tricolor is found in central Ecuador, on the western slopes of the Andes (El Porvenir, BolÃ*var Province)
Although initially described as two different species they have also previously been considered together as one species (E.tricolor) but their captive care is essentially the same.

General Description
They are relatively small dart frogs, reaching a snout-vent length of up to 25mm, however what they lack in size they tend to make up for in boldness. As well as bold they are extremely hardy frogs making them an ideal starter species for those wanting to begin keeping dart frogs.
The most commonly available morphs consist of a base body colour of red with yellow or cream coloured stripes running longitudinally down the body. Different morphs do exist with tan, green or even blue stripes.

Sexing
Females can be larger with a more rounded body shape although this is not always the case and so the most reliable method of sexing is observing male frogs calling.
Male frogs can begin calling as young as 3 months from morphing but 6 months is more common.

Housing
These frogs do thrive when housed in groups and although small, are extremely active and will exhibit territorial behaviour, so they do best in heavily planted, large vivaria with leaf litter as well as tropical seed pods and branches for climbing. A 20 gallon tank would adequately house a group of 6 to 8 adult frogs. They are a predominantly terrestrial species but will make use of all parts of a vivarium. Males will compete for the highest calling spots and some height is advantageous.


The 45cmx45cmx60cm vivarium in which i keep a 3.3 group

A source of fresh, de-chlorinated water should be available at all times, either in the form of a water dish or a pool integrated into the landscaping of the vivarium
For breeding purposes these frogs like to lay their eggs on sturdy, horizontal leaves (such as Pothos, Alocasia and Syngonium) as well as bromeliad leaves and axes and so they make useful additions to their vivaria as well as species of climbers and other plants.
They are best maintained at humidity in excess of 90% and temperatures slightly cooler than most other dart frogs, generally within the range 18 - 25°C (64 – 78F) with a slight drop at night. This is best achieved using a thermostat-controlled heat mat fixed to the bottom or side of the vivarium.
Lighting should be provided in the form of fluorescent tubes, either with or without UV depending on your preference, although live plants would benefit from at least some form of natural daylight bulb/tube.
Springtails and woodlice when added to the substrate prior to introducing the frogs not only act as excellent vivarium custodians but also provide a good food source to supplement your feeding regime.

Feeding
These frogs are voracious feeders, taking prey items that would be too big for other similarly sized dart frogs.
Common food items are small and large fruit flies, crickets (hatchling to 1st/2nd instar), bean weevils, grain weevils, aphids, springtails, whiteworms, mites and dwarf tropical woodlice.
Food items should be dusted with a suitable calcium and vitamin supplement regularly.

Breeding
Once sexually mature, these frogs generally do not need much encouragement to begin spawning however breeding can be induced by increasing feeding and misting of the tank.
Males have a very loud, melodic call and will compete for the highest, most prominent calling spots.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/B4KP1sRFLKY?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Male E.anthonyi calling for females

As previously stated they prefer sturdy, horizontal leaves for spawning but will just as happily spawn in horizontal film canisters. It is reported that they also spawn in leaf litter although I have never observed this myself.


Male E.anthonyi guarding a clutch of eggs laid on a Syngonium leaf



Male E.anthonyi guarding a clutch of eggs laid in a film-canister

Egg clutches can be left in situ or withdrawn for raising outside the vivarium (which I shall discuss in the next section). Once fertilised, clutches are guarded by the male for up to two weeks and will make regular trips to water sources to ensure the clutch remains moist.
Once the tadpoles begin to break free from their jelly the male frog encourages them onto his back and will deposit them in a suitable water source (normally a pool or water dish). The frogs will exhibit no further parental care from this point.


Male E.anthonyi transporting a clutch of around 20 tadpoles

Tadpole Care

If you decide to remove egg clutches to raise outside the vivarium they are best placed in a suitable clean (or sterile if possible) container such as a Petri dish. They need to be kept moist but not submerged until the tadpoles break free of their jelly and are free moving.



Eggs newly transferred into a petri dish and a few days later as they develop

A great advantage of these species is that their tadpoles are not cannibalistic like many dart frog tadpoles and can therefore be kept communally.


Tadpole raising tank

Tadpoles are raised in communal tanks in tadpole tea. Tadpole tea is made by boiling de-chlorinated, preferably soft water with Indian almond leaves, oak leaves or black alder cones. The tannins released by this process softens the water further as well as inhibiting bacterial and fungal growth.
Almond and oak leaves are added whole to the tea and act as hiding places and the tadpoles will graze on the leaves and any algae or bacteria that grows on them.
Plants such as elodea, hornwort and pothos can be added to the tank to oxygenate the water as well as providing vegetable matter for these truly omnivorous tadpoles.
Although not strictly necessary I have found the addition of a small air-stone helps improve water quality and can reduce the need for as regular water changes.
Even with an air-stone in situ, regular water changes are still necessary to maintain water quality, and may possibly reduce the incidence of spindly-leg syndrome (SLS) although this observation may be anecdotal.
As well as grazing on algae and vegetation in their tank, tadpoles will take a variety of foods. I maintain my tadpoles on tropical fish flake, Tadpole Bites®, freeze-dried bloodworm and sinking spirulina pellets with added carotenoid. Feeding high carotenoid containing foods to tadpoles should improve the colour intensity of the final froglets.
Once the tadpoles begin to develop legs slope the tank to allow an area for them to climb out and add floating pieces of cork-bark. Alternatively remove any tadpoles once they have developed their front legs and place in very shallow water with areas of orchid bark which they can climb out onto. Generally by this stage tadpoles will not feed until they have absorbed their tails.



Tadpoles at various developmental stages

Froglet Care
Froglets should be kept in vivaria with plenty of plants and leaf litter to provide adequate hiding spots. It is a good idea to set up such a tank in advance as this allows time for plants to grow and establish, as well as giving you time to establish a population of springtails on which the newly emerged froglets will feed.


Froglet rearing tank

Froglets are relatively dull when they emerge, generally brown in colour and often lacking their central stripe. This will develop over time although full adult colouration can take up to 18 months to form. Feeding springtails raised on high carotenoid foodstuffs such as fish flake, carrot and beetroot can help colour development even at this stage.
Whilst their diet will consist of primarily springtails initially, froglets can be moved on to fruit flies and gut-loaded hatchling crickets relatively quickly. These should be dusted at every feed at this stage.


A 2 month old froglet already developing its adult colouration

I hope you have found this guide useful and it encourages you to keep this lovely dart frog species.

[ZachTurner]

*This is an on going work in progress*
I have a number of pictures I would like to include, plus quite a bit of information I have yet to get compiled, Such as but not limited to their range of vocalizations, feeding behaviors, and territorial displays.But I figured I would throw my name into the hat anyways..

Phyllomedusa bicolor (Boddaert, 1772)

Common Name

The Giant Monkey frog, and a few other variations including: Giant waxy monkey frog, Giant waxy monkey tree frog, Bicolored monkey frog, and Giant leaf frog.

Photos ©Zach Turner

Introduction

The largest member of Phyllomedusa is the giant monkey frog, P. bicolor. This species is arboreal and nocturnal. They have a rather robust appearance, with muscular limbs and a broad head. The males are generally smaller than the females growing to around 4.0 inches (10.2 cm) in length, while females can reach 4.7 inches (11.9 cm). Their dorsum is green and their belly varies from white to yellow-white or cream. There are sparce white spots with dark frames on the lower lips, chest, and front legs, and these become even more dense on the flanks and hind legs. Fingers are transparent brown with large adhesive discs. their iris is dark gray, and a prominent gland extends from behind the eye over the tympanum.
The giant monkey frog is widespread throughout the Amazon basin, where it spends most of its time high up in the rain forest canopy.
While little information exists to determine an accurate lifespan for wild Giant monkey frogs, They can often live 10+ years in captivity
When provided with a large enclosure and properly acclimated to captivity Giant monkey frogs make good captives, but are not an easy species to accommodate or maintain because of their large size.

Range and ecology

Phyllomedusa bicolor is found in the Amazon basin in Vaenezuela (Amazonas and Bolivar states), Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, and Guianas. It can also be found in the Cerrado habitat of Manhoa state, Brazil.
The distribution of the species encompasses several protected areas, and there are very few threats through its wide range, though it is impacted locally by severe habitat loss such as clear-cutting. There is currently an increased interest in the toxic compounds in the skin of this frog (which is used for hunting practices for several tribes of Amazonia). Its waxy secretion may have medicinal uses against AIDS, cancer and other diseases. While some of the components isolated from Its waxy secretion have been patented, none of those patents have led to successful products yet. These frogs are currently jeopardized by biopiracy for medicinal use.

Courtship and Breeding

In the wild, males descend from high in the trees and try to attract females with their powerful calls, then with a female they construct nests 1- 3 m above forest ponds. Reproduction occurs throughout the year in ponds both near to, and far from, streams, with a peak in reproduction from November to May (rainy season). The females deposit around 600 unpigmented eggs in a gelatinous mass in leaf nests hanging over ponds. The leaves are joined or folded with the aid of the male. After 8-10 days, the tadpoles hatch and fall into the water, where they complete development until metamorphosis.

Selecting an animal

When selecting an animal, purchase one born in captivity over those that are wild-caught. Captive-bred frogs are generally healthier, less stressed, and easier to care for initially. Unfortunately, captive-bred giant monkey frogs are rarely ever available, and it may be necessary to purchase wild-caught adults. Wild-caught males are much more common than females in the pet trade. Males are usually captured while descending to lower levels to breed during the rainy season. Only occasionally are females caught along side the males. When selecting a wild-caught frog inspect it well for health problems. Do not purchase frogs that have a patchy coloration (their dorsal side should be uniformly green), and pass up any frog that displays unusual behavior, such as sleeping on the ground. Also avoid frogs with open wounds, such as severe rostral abrasions, as well as any other unusual bumps, soars, or rubs. Bacterial infections and internal parasites are common problems associated with wild-caught frogs that may need the attention of a trained veterinarian.

Captive Care

A tall terrarium is required. This is important because your goal is not to adapt Your Giant Monkey frog to a cage, but rather to select or build your enclosure to meet the specific needs of your frog.
Small enclosures are the bane of this beautiful arboreal frog. I have witnessed many captive Phyllomedusa bicolor with permanent damage due to rostral scarring (nose rub) from being confined in an enclosure thats far too small for its captive care needs.
P.bicolor is a large arboreal frog that spends most of its time high in the rainforest Canopy and their enclosures should reflect this as much as possible.
60 x 45 x 90 cm / 24� x 18� x 36� (WxDxH)minimum Terrarium space is required per 1-2 adult frogs. Large Chameleon reptariums are good for these animals as well, giving the extra advantage of additional air circulation which is beneficial for these Arboreal Frogs. Bigger is Better. Use as large of an enclosure as you have room for and can afford.
A number of robust branches should be offered along the full height of the enclosure, as both horizontal perches and vertical climbing areas.

Lighting

The top portion of the enclosure should be screen or wire mesh (not Glass). UVB is essential for the growth of these frogs. For Adult frogs you can use up to 5% UVB bulbs.
12/12 = 12 hours of daylight, followed by 12 hours of darkness.

Temperatures

The ideal temperature is 77°F (25°C) during the day and 70°F (21°C) at night. P. bicolor's Waxy secrection locks in its body moisture allowing this animal to bask openly in the daytime sun while it sleeps. A 84°F (29°C) basking area should be offered during the day; however the high temperature isnt as critical as having a proper gradient. A suitable daytime enclosure range is 75 to 82°F (24 to 27°C) with ample perching areas between.
DO NOT use hot rocks, heating pads, or Heat tapes with arboreal frogs.

Watering and Humidity

Live Plants and earth substrates are the best way to maintian a proper and consitant humidity. These should be watered each day to provide a moderate, but not high, humidity. An ideal relative humidity range for a giant monkey frog is 50-75 percent. During the mating cycle this can be increased to 65-90 percent humidity for a short time. During this period special care must be taken to allow the enclosure to dry out completely between mistings. This is vitally important in order to minimize any possibility of fungal and bacterial contamination to substrate materials, branches and/or the animal itself.
P.Bicolors should always have a fairly large but shallow container of Clean drinking water available to them. This not only needs to be large enough to drink from, but also for all of your inhabatants to comfortably Soak in. This container should be removable. Your Frogs will readily drink, soak, and defecate in the water; making it vital you remove and clean this container daily.

Feeding

In the wild Giant waxy monkey frogs eat a multitude of flying and crawling insects. In captivity they can be fed a diet that consists largely of crickets and small to medium roaches.
Pinky mice and wax worms are too high in fat and should not be offered as food.
Food items Should be dusted with high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements.
It's best to feed at night when these Frogs are active and on the hunt.

Conclusion

Phyllomedusa bicolor is one of the most gorgeous and impressive Frogs around. Their sheer size and Beauty make for an impressive display in anyone's collection. Captive care is a continuous learning process. We do not know everything. I hope you found this care sheet helpful and informative and welcome feedback from anyone wiling to share their experiences. If for any reason you feel something in the care sheet is inaccurate, please let Me know!


Referances
Claudia Azevedo-Ramos, Enrique La Marca 2008. Phyllomedusa bicolor. In: IUCN 2010. IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Version 2010.4. www.iucnredlist.org. Downloaded on 15 May 2011.

[bshmerlie]

These are both great great care sheets guys... very well done. Zach I always thought the Waxy Monkeys were supposed to be kept even dryer than that. For some reason I thought it was around the 40% mark. So far this contest will be up to a coin flip unless we get some more entries. We have two weeks to go as the contest will run through the first week of June.

[ZachTurner]

. Zach I always thought the Waxy Monkeys were supposed to be kept even dryer than that. For some reason I thought it was around the 40% mark.

Your thinking of Phyllomedusa sauvagii, the other waxy monkey frog lives in an very arid Environment and is kept at around 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit and around 40%-60% humidity