Make your own viv?

[Kerry1968]

I like the idea of a magnetic closure for the door.

I think I'll probably go with some kind of hinged door, sounds easier than sliding doors

I got the measurements slightly wrong for the tank, it's 24" long, by 18" high by 12" wide. Therefore I'm thinking of making the side of the tank the front and have a side opening door, to make more viewing space. Also then the door doesn't have to be glass as it will be just a side wall and access point, if you get what I mean.

This is all just by the by as I'm now using the tank as a nusery tank for my youngest axolotl, he/she was growing out of the tub I had him in!

Also, I'm moving house in the next couple of weeks, so all projects on the back burner for now.

[adawinters]

Once you're done with the move and you get started, you should make a new thread to detail the process and show off the awesomeness of your new tank.

[Kerry1968]

Hmmm, I will take pictures, but whether they 'go public' depends on the end result and the 'awesomeness'!

[adawinters]

Hey, we all make mistakes, and they're the best way to learn. But I hear you. I prefer the "gloat after" rather than "publicly stumble" approach, myself.

[Iceni]

Kerry if your planning on going the acrylic back and fold out door route this might be of some use.


eBay.co.uk Shop – Plastic Online: Search results for.


If you got the A3 sheet and had them cut it (they do it for free).

A3 = (29.7 centimeter / 11.692 913 386 inch) x (42 centimeter / 16.535 433 071 inch)


Meaning you can span the tank easly, and also have them cut it (they do it for free).

This could give you a 12 inch x12 inch retaining wall and an offcut for the top of the tank to sink some magnets into.

All you would have to do is have them cut it a few MM undersize so you have a snug fit in the tank, Silicone it in place. Attach a couple of hinges.

Then make a wooden frame for the back door, and mesh it over. Add a metal rail or some magnets to the top edge and you have a reasonably cheap self locking tank.

[Kerry1968]

Thanks for that!

I need about 3/4 sealed and 1/4 mesh, need to keep the humidity up. So I would divide it into - 6 inches siliconed-in bottom portion, for substrate or false bottom, 12 inches opening door and the top 6 inches for the mesh. Something like that anyway! (Approximate measurements obviously)

I would probably make a perspex frame for the mesh and just silcone or glue the mesh on, the mesh I have is a lightweight plastic type, so wouldn't be a problem hopefully!

Do you think the perspex would warp over time? I need to keep it flush as possible so that I don't have any escapees!

[Iceni]

It depends on the thickness of the perspex/acrylic, and how much heat you plan on using near it.

2mm sheet for example can be formed bent ect with boiling water from a kettle. So if you plan on using it in a tank with a heal lamp or heat mat at that thickness then warping may happen.

6mm and upwards needs a lot of force to be bent in this way. You need to apply a lot of pressure whilst the material is hot so it's less liable to warping.

10-15mm and your not bending it without either heating it till it's almost melting, or thinning the material by either stretching or removing material so it's not lightly to warp ever.

Personally i would favour 15mm simply for the fact it can be drilled and screwed. And at that thickness your not going to have a lot of problems in regards to the perspex cracking if your screw holes are less than perfect. You can also reduce the Impact a screw will have on the material by heating the screws before you put them in. It'll take a little practice, but a pair of pliers, small blowtorch and a fast hand can get then in really well You'll have to play about on a few pieces of scrap material tho as if their too hot they will continue to melt the acrylic. Also having a big bowl of water to cool the screw fast may help. Note i do not believe this works on polycarbonate based sheets as they have a different chemical make-up and do not bend when heated.

[Tom Highum]

That article about the vertical viv thing could be improved on by also using cork on the background because its easy to attach plants to and it looks nice. Also adding a False Bottom would improve it in my opinion

[SludgeMunkey]

Hmmm, I will take pictures, but whether they 'go public' depends on the end result and the 'awesomeness'!

Always go public with DIY projects. For every one reply you get to it, there is 100 people who read your posts and said "Why did I not think of that?"

I think I was attempting to get active on vivaria forum, but I am a bit of a web snob and found the quality of a lot of the posts offensive.
There is some great stuff on there though.

[adawinters]

Yeah, I mostly lurk on the site and sift through for the worthwhile projects. I have to say (shout out to John) that this, and caudata.org are two of the best forums that I've found this summer, as they're usually on-topic, and most replies are intelligent, informed, and polite. I was a little surprised by how many forums out there are lacking in at least one of the above categories.

[John]

Thank you for the kind words!

[Kurt]

Yes, John does set a good example for the rest of us to follow.