M.nasuta help.

[Tony]

I would suggest pre-treating for chytrid, the disease is very widespread through southeast asia and Megophrys are often "silent carriers" until stress weakens them enough to show symptoms. I have had great results from Steve Busch's Lamisil treatment.. If Lamisil is not available where you live you may have to look into other treatment methods.

For feeding I just drop the insects in and let the frogs catch them, they are fairly timid frogs and will actually shy away from attempts to hand or tong feed them.

[Tony]

I found a picture of the quarantine setup:

[frogged]

Thanks for the advice, that picture there really gave me a clear idea of how I should do it. Were I to attempt treating the nasuta with flagyl without any clear idea as to its medical condition, what would happen? Would that be okay? I am most certainly going to deworm it firstly, don't like the idea of this lovely frog turning skeletal.

[Tony]

Thanks for the advice, that picture there really gave me a clear idea of how I should do it. Were I to attempt treating the nasuta with flagyl without any clear idea as to its medical condition, what would happen? Would that be okay? I am most certainly going to deworm it firstly, don't like the idea of this lovely frog turning skeletal.

I don't deworm my frogs unless they are showing symptoms of illness that can be tied to internal parasites. My philosophy is that it is best not to mess with nature unnecessarily, as more research is done we sometimes learn that organisms once considered to be parasites may actually be a benefit to the digestive process (i.e. pinworms in some reptiles). Our animals and their gut flora have evolved together over many thousands of years, and unless there is a clear sign of an imbalance harming the frog I think that intervening is riskier than leaving them alone.

[frogged]

That's an interesting piece of advice. What signs should I look out for in identifying illness in nasuta's? I realise for amphibians illness does the coup de grace quite quickly. In fact, many people suggest periodical deworming. Are there any case studies where this has been seen otherwise?

You have thus far generously provided me with these useful information:
Min Tank: 20 gal.
Temps: 65-75 F
Diet: Crickets and roaches (Please correct with any reference to their preference of fast and slowing moving prey items)
Appetite: (Please give a rough gauge on how many prey items they consume at one sitting and how often)
Mineral supplementation: (Suggestions as to what, which brands, how much and how often)
Quarantine tank design: Many Thanks to the nice picture you provided.
Permanent tank design: (Please give me ideas on how damp the substrate must be, and the ratio of water area:land area)
Possible ailments and notable experiences that go along with this species would be nice.

[frogged]

Just to add some extra stuff there, I'm wondering if you or any others ever had experience or are familiar with D.muelleri, those are another species of beautiful frogs that I would love to acquire. If yes, I will start another thread on this other species.

[Tony]

I have been lucky enough to not experience any health issues with my nasuta outside of the male arriving with a chytrid infection, but I would expect signs of parasite overload to show through weight loss, runny feces, poor appetite, etc. like it does in most frogs. I don't have any particular studies to point toward, I was just sharing my thoughts based on my experience with imported frogs and discussions with other hobbyists. If you have a system that has worked well for you, or are medicating under the advice of a vet, then by all means stick with it. Something that works well for my frogs under my conditions may not work so well in a different setting.

I haven't noticed any real preference in their feeding, I use four roach species ranging from very fast (B. lateralis) to slow (B. dubia)and they take all of the roaches and crickets without discrimination. I haven't really tracked how much they eat, I just feed two or three times weekly and let them eat what they want. I supplement with a light dusting of Repashy Calcium Plus at every feeding.

As for the permanent tank design I have not yet decided exactly how I will build it, but I do plan to include a stream since they lay their eggs near or over running water. I keep the substrate slightly moist and allow the layer of leaf litter to stay rather dry, I have been told by a more experienced keeper that they are prone to develop sores and bacterial infections if kept on an excessively wet substrate.

I don't have any experience with D. muelleri, hopefully if you start a thread on them someone will jump in and help.