Dart frogs for a beginner

[Paul Rust]

Here are a few pics of a simple drain. The fitting is 4" high in the drain rock. This enclosure stays hot, over 80F and is heated from the bottom so lots of water keeps it humid. I empty the botttle about every 2 months.

You will want a light for the live plants. Also to simulate the 12 hour photoperiod that they have in nature.

[bogalog]

Ok, that is much less often than I thought it would have to be emptied, thanks for that.

It's definitely time for bed, I've been researching for many hours now, I just know I'm going to dream of frogs

Getting excited thinking about starting this going!

[Paul Rust]

Welcome to the addiction!!

[John]

Just one instance of your frogs going to 31 °C will quite likely kill them. People kill dart frogs by getting them too cool (on the other end, 15 °C / 59 °F can cause a frog to go into decline and die slowly). You need to be able to provide temperature controlled conditions or you'll waste a lot of money on these frogs, not to mention kill the poor things.

[Paul Rust]

Just one instance of your frogs going to 31 °C will quite likely kill them. People kill dart frogs by getting them too cool (on the other end, 15 °C / 59 °F can cause a frog to go into decline and die slowly). You need to be able to provide temperature controlled conditions or you'll waste a lot of money on these frogs, not to mention kill the poor things.

Very good point here, just to add to it.
If they do get chilled and survive, they may never fully recover.

[bogalog]

I'm going to get hold of a decent thermometer and check that the area I'm going to put the tank doesn't get that warm. The measurements I've been quoting have been from an alarm clock under a bedside lamp, which actually isn't a good reading at all most likely

The temperatures I've seen have only ever been unreasonable when I haven't opened a window due to moths coming in late at night, and that's easily sorted by putting up with the moths and opening the window regardless.

I will get a thermometer and check the temperature range before doing anything.

[Paul Rust]

Let me just give you an example of environmental controls that I use so you can get an idea.

Lighting: On timers, 12hrs on, 12hrs off.

Heating: 200 watt fan heaters under the enclosure, thermostat controlled with nighttime drop. 78F during the day, 73F at night.

Humidity: High pressure misting system, humidistat controlled. On at 60% and off at 80%. the humidity will continue to rise after system shuts off.

Cooling: 80mm PC fans, one pulling air in and one pushing air out. On timers, 30 minutes every 2 hours 'round the clock with one 1" emergency fan that vents if temp goes above 82F. Because everything else is automated this won't disturb the environment but will provide ventilation and keeps the front of the enclosure clear for viewing.

Of course everyone will find their own way to do these things but the goal is to make it so that external influences dont disrupt the dart's environment (like an over zealous partner turning the AC on full blast) aaaaargh!

All my dart tanks have these controls in place. I don't like to take chances with these variables. It is a small price to pay for not killing my animals, plust many of my frogs cost over $110.00 each, a loss hurts the wallet as well as the heart.