Dart frogs for a beginner

[John]

Unless you've a bunch of tanks, I recommend hand misting - gives you an excuse to check out what's happening in the terrarium on a regular basis.

To answer your new questions:

Misting is a way of life with dart frog terraria, hand or automatic misting system. So drainage is something to seriously take into account.

Solution 1 is great if you are experienced at drilling glass with a diamond hole saw.

I actually use solution 2 - just make sure you cap the pipe in some fashion, and that you put something on the bottom so the pipe won't come up when you remove the cap. Drill some holes in the sides at the bottom of the pipe to allow water to enter freely.

If you've got a planted terrarium with a good substrate mix, you don't need to spot clean - you might have to clean out a small terrarium every 3 or 4 years, at worst. You can set up a temporary dart frog container easily. I routinely use these:

Josh's Frogs - 190 oz. quarantine/temporary enclosure & lid - quarantine/temporary enclosures

I put about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of wet coconut husk (the chunks) in the bottom. On top of this I put some leaf litter that won't rot quickly (in the US they have a species of tree called "Live Oak", which is ideal. You can also use magnolia leaves. All should be dried/old leaves, not fresh ones). I spray the container down with distilled water to moisten everything, with a hint of water in the base of the coconut fiber, and then I put plant cuttings on top of the leaf litter. The easiest for me is Devil's Ivy, also known as Pothos - Epipremnum aureum. Then the frogs go in straight away. Keep the container in a room that is about 21-25 °C (early 70s °F), and mist every few days. Feed the frogs every 1-2 days on dusted fruit flies.

[bogalog]

Thanks so much for your help John, you and everyone else on this forum have been fantastic.

My bedroom rarely goes below 23 degrees if im there, and i've seen anything up to 31 degrees when i refused to open the window after using my computer for a long period, so a temporary container like the one you suggested would do fine for a short period, I wouldnt have to worry about temperatures.

I've been reading guides on how to build terrariums, and plan to use yours on this site (which is a fantastic guide by the way). I followed some people's diaries when they made their own terrarium backs, and the combination of your false bottom method with an expanding foam backdrop seems feasible, and at a reasonable cost.

I will definitely start hand misting, and if humidity becomes a problem I can always sort out an automatic system in the future.

I have no experience in cutting glass, nor aquarium or terrarium construction, which is why I am swaying towards modifying an exo-terra rather than trying to create my own. I guess it depends on the range available.

I have managed to find oak leaves which are apparently suitable for dart frogs and will decay slowly, and my local shop sells many different substrates for amphibian and reptile use, I dont think that will be a problem.

I know you say I can get the frogs in as soon as the plants are in, but I'm going to watch it for a bit, make sure I can keep the humidity and temperature at reasonable levels, as well as making sure I can get their fruit flies going.

One more question before I go to bed - I am edging towards leucomelas, do I need a light in the top or not? The tank will be away from the window, not in the dark but not in bright light by any means.

[Paul Rust]

Here are a few pics of a simple drain. The fitting is 4" high in the drain rock. This enclosure stays hot, over 80F and is heated from the bottom so lots of water keeps it humid. I empty the botttle about every 2 months.

You will want a light for the live plants. Also to simulate the 12 hour photoperiod that they have in nature.

[bogalog]

Ok, that is much less often than I thought it would have to be emptied, thanks for that.

It's definitely time for bed, I've been researching for many hours now, I just know I'm going to dream of frogs

Getting excited thinking about starting this going!

[Paul Rust]

Welcome to the addiction!!

[John]

Just one instance of your frogs going to 31 °C will quite likely kill them. People kill dart frogs by getting them too cool (on the other end, 15 °C / 59 °F can cause a frog to go into decline and die slowly). You need to be able to provide temperature controlled conditions or you'll waste a lot of money on these frogs, not to mention kill the poor things.

[Paul Rust]

Just one instance of your frogs going to 31 °C will quite likely kill them. People kill dart frogs by getting them too cool (on the other end, 15 °C / 59 °F can cause a frog to go into decline and die slowly). You need to be able to provide temperature controlled conditions or you'll waste a lot of money on these frogs, not to mention kill the poor things.

Very good point here, just to add to it.
If they do get chilled and survive, they may never fully recover.

[bogalog]

I'm going to get hold of a decent thermometer and check that the area I'm going to put the tank doesn't get that warm. The measurements I've been quoting have been from an alarm clock under a bedside lamp, which actually isn't a good reading at all most likely

The temperatures I've seen have only ever been unreasonable when I haven't opened a window due to moths coming in late at night, and that's easily sorted by putting up with the moths and opening the window regardless.

I will get a thermometer and check the temperature range before doing anything.