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Thread: Pacman frog eating less

  1. #1

    Default Pacman frog eating less

    I've had my pacman frog since January of this year, and I have him on a feeding schedule of 6 crickets every other day. He is a juvenile. A week ago today, I put him in a clean tupperware container to soak in warm, dechlorinated water, while he was soaking I cleaned his tank, gave him fresh substrate, and also added spagnum moss for the first time. He pooped the next morning. Ever since, he has been eating 1-2 crickets, and doesn't actually bite them, but sort of opens his mouth, and lets me put the cricket in. Is he stressed or something? He has never eaten this little before. I also got him a nighttime bulb the same day, so he's had that every night, which is a change. He's shown no other signs of stress, no pale colors or discoloration, he's actually been very vibrant recently.

    10 gallon tank, coco fiber substrate with spagnum moss layer on half the tank, daylight heating is 75-80, nighttime heating is 70-75. Humidity stays between 60 and 80.

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  3. #2
    100+ Post Member Frogman1031's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pacman frog eating less

    hi, please answer the following, it’s standard procedure here to determine what the issue is.
    1. Size of enclosure

    2. # of inhabitants - specifically other frogs and size differences
    3. Humidity
    4. Temperature
    5. Water - type - for both misting and soaking dish
    6. Materials used for substrate
    7. Enclosure set up i.e. plants (live or artificial), wood, bark and other materials.
    - How were things prepared prior to being put into the viv.
    8. Main food source
    9. Vitamins and calcium? (how often)
    10. Lighting
    11. What is being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
    12. When is the last time he/she ate
    13. Have you found poop lately
    14. A pic would be helpful including frog and enclosure (any including cell phone pic is fine)
    15. Describe frog's symptoms and/or recent physical changes; to include it's ventral/belly area.
    16. How old is the frog
    17. How long have you owned him/her
    18. Is the frog wild caught or captive bred
    19. Frog food- how often and if it is diverse, what other feeders are used as treats
    20. How often the frog is handled
    21. Is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area
    22. Describe enclosure maintenance (water changes, cleaning, etc)

    Litoria
    caerulea 1.1.0 (White's Tree Frog)
    Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis ​0.1.0 (Anerythristic Honduran Milk Snake) Tliltocatl albopilosus 0.0.2 (Curly Hair Tarantula)
    Aphonopelma hentzi 0.0.1 (Texas Brown Tarantula)
    Avicularia avicularia 0.0.2 (Pinktoe Tarantula)
    Brachypelma smithi ex. annitha 0.0.1 (Mexican Giant Red Knee Tarantula) Monocentropus balfouri 0.0.2 (Socotra Island Blue Baboon Tarantula)
    Harpactira pulchripes
    0.0.1 (Golden Blue Leg Baboon Tarantula)

  4. #3

    Default Re: Pacman frog eating less

    10 gal, just him, humidity 60-80, heat 80-75, 70-75 at night, dechlorinated water, coco fiber substrate with spagnum moss, crickets, calcium a couple times a month, heat lamp and under the tank heating pad, ate three days ago, saw poop about 2 weeks ago, i cant upload a pic rn, no physical changes, just won't eat, i wasn't told his age when i got him, ive owned him since january, i try to feed him every other day but he isn't eating now, i assume captive bred, he's handled once a week or once every two weeks,low traffic area, cleaned two weeks ago and added spagnum moss, now he wont eat. tank is cleaned once a month.

  5. #4
    100+ Post Member Frogman1031's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pacman frog eating less

    Looks good for the most part, a few things I would change though
    1. sphagnum moss, while great for retaining humidity, is a really easy way to get your frog impacted, where the intestine gets blocked and poop cannot pass. If your frog has eaten any moss, this could be your problem, are there any lumps?
    2. calcium + d3 should be offered a couple times a week. Also consider adding a multivitamin supplement about once a week, though this isn’t as important as the calcium and d3
    3. Make sure the heating pad is glued to the side, not the bottom. These frogs are hardwired to burrow down to cool off, and don’t understand that burrowing will only make them hotter, it could burn.

    i will also say that 6 crickets is a lot for feeding every other day, he may just not be hungry. One of my frogs will always eat, but the other sometimes refuses food if he feels like he’s had enough the last couple weeks. Sometimes they just do that. I would definitely check for impaction though, by gently feeling the belly and sides of the frog to see if there’s a lump there. Other than that and the husbandry adjustment, as long as no new symptoms arise, your frog should be fine. Oh one last thing, i always take my frogs to get a vet check and fecal test done once a year to rule out parasites and such, so if you have access to such i would definitely recommend

    edit: your frog looks pretty young from the photos you posted (by the way please try not to make multiple threads for the same topic) so the calcium is important.
    he may just be adjusting to his new setup as well, so if the impaction test yields no results, I still wouldn’t stress. Remember these guys can go a looong time without food, and he is still eating, just not as much. As long as he remains at a healthy weight, there’s no problem

    Litoria
    caerulea 1.1.0 (White's Tree Frog)
    Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis ​0.1.0 (Anerythristic Honduran Milk Snake) Tliltocatl albopilosus 0.0.2 (Curly Hair Tarantula)
    Aphonopelma hentzi 0.0.1 (Texas Brown Tarantula)
    Avicularia avicularia 0.0.2 (Pinktoe Tarantula)
    Brachypelma smithi ex. annitha 0.0.1 (Mexican Giant Red Knee Tarantula) Monocentropus balfouri 0.0.2 (Socotra Island Blue Baboon Tarantula)
    Harpactira pulchripes
    0.0.1 (Golden Blue Leg Baboon Tarantula)

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