First off kudos to you for making an informed decision and for showing a genuine commitment to your frogs care and well being. Adults often purchase frogs for kids on impulse and it’s reasuring to see that you and your daughter have put some thought into it.

Now as far as the nitty gritty goes:

I see you’ve lost faith in Petco. Good! They generally offer bad advise to new keepers and end up hosing you with expensive products that are essentially garbage and of no benefit to your animal. And yes there is a tremendous amount of conflicting information available on this site and in general.

My advise to you is this. Keep it simple. Fretting over ambient humidity is a no win scenario. Particularly given that the hygrometer you have in your pic is Petco junk. Quality hygrometers are expensive and essentially unnecessary to the average keeper. As long as you provide a moist substrate with a bowl to soak in you are in the clear. If you are having issues with the substrate drying out cover part of the screen with a piece of glass as it will hold the moisture in and you’ll have less evaporation into the room. This is a simple way to maintain humidity in the enclosure. Cutting a piece of glass is actually easy but if you’re uncomfortable with the idea try a local hardware store. You may have to play around with it but generally covering 80 percent of the screen will allow ventilation but maintain moisture.

As far as thermometers go get a temp gun. They are cheep and easy to use. This way you can get readings anywhere in the enclosure. You want to provide a gradient for the animal. Warmer on one end and cooler on the other aiming for mid 70s to low 80s. Ceratophrys (Pac-Man frogs) species will burrow to cool down so don’t use uth pads underneath. Using them on the side as you are is pointless as it won’t radiate the heat evenly. Ceramic heat bulbs are good as they won’t interrupt the day night cycle. However they get hot. So, here’s what you do. Go to amazon and pick up a herp stat ez1 thermostat. It’s about 90 bucks but it’s amazing. It uses a probe that will need to be positioned in the enclosure. It uses pulse technology to regulate the output of the heat source and it’s essentially fool proof. You can use uvb if you like but since this is not a basking species it may not show any benefit. Zoomed bulbs are the best and I’d go with a5.0 as the 10.0 is too intense. Change the bulb every 6 months. Otherwise a regular household bulb will provide ambient light.

As as far as feeders go this subject is always a bone of contention here. Using crickets as a staple is fine but a variety of prey is preferred. Dubia roaches are a great addition and so are silkworms. I’ve had poor experiences with earthworms but some people swear by them. They are the only invert prey that actually contains a useable amount of calcium. If your frog prefers crickets then so be it . The flukers orange cubes are overpriced ****. I gutload with carrots, dandelions and oats and I dust with repashy supercal ever other feeding. avoid lettuce and potato. Gutload for two days before feeding.

Otherwise if your frog is eating, defecating and looks to be in good general health don’t worry. Read as much as you can from reputable sources such as amphibian ark or frog log and talk to other keepers. Remember there are no rules per se. As long as your animal thrives that’s the only thing that matters. Good luck.