FBT Vivarium Preparations

[daybr4ke]

Hey, glad to hear things are going well! I'm slightly confused, though and I'd love it if you could post a picture or two if your setup. The reason I'm a little confused is that you mentioned space between the false bottom and the egg crate. Egg crate is actually unnecessary if you use gravel to make a drainage layer, since you just put in 2-3inches of the drainage material(I saw you asked about this in a previous post and I replied to the thread but got carried away while typing and didn't answer the question. Sorry about that!) then use a substrate divider(like fine window screen) between it and the substrate to prevent the dirt from being washed down and siphoned out. I had intended to post this when you were mixing your soil up and getting ready to add your plants, but I guess now it is late. I should have included this earlier.
A few things need to be done with plants before you add them to you vivarium since frogs will be living in it. The plants need to be bathed/rinsed, this is done in water or in a bleach-water solution. This removed old soil that often inludes things that are undesirable like perlite, to kill and remove any pests on the plants and to remove any chemicals that may be on the plants.
http://www.neherpetoculture.com/plan...singprocedures
A lot of useful information such as the bleach-water ratio are included.
I don't know exactly what the effects of the gap are, but I feel as if it may make the soil dry faster. I don't know if it's a problem, so maybe it won't matter at all lol

[synikalspinstress]

Aaah, sorry for the confusion! It made sense in my head, but, without seeing the tank I understand why "omg there's a gap" could be hard to understand. So, I took pictures.



So, this is my tank! That big plastic tub is their water dish (currently empty, and will have some fake plants and the like going into it, as well as a slope to make exiting easier). And, maybe, you can see the gap I'm talking about, between the water dish and the egg crate wall holding the substrate back.





Here are the close-ups of it. The cork doesn't lie flat on top of it, unfortunately, so the toads could get under there and get stuck in that crevice. I've been thinking about adding, like, a bit of egg crate in there, or maybe some type of foam filter. Anything put in there will tumble out when I remove the water tub, so, it can't be more substrate, or gravel. Larger rocks might work, because I'd at least be able to put the rocks back when the tub goes back in.

[daybr4ke]

Thanks for the pictures. I had a totally wrong idea of what was going on. In thought there was a horizontal gap under the substrate. Boy was I off I was thinking of ways to fix this: First, you have the fill-in idea like you were talking about. I actually don't know how well that will work.
My own ideas deal with the depth of the container. If you are up for it, you can cut the bin down or buy a new bin. My girlfriend suggested using a plastic litter box for cats instead. You might even look into how much it would cost to have a custom bin made by a place like TAP plastics, since I have heard they make custom plastic stuff, even weird stuff like props for costuming(The example being an odd shaped sword from an anime.) for a reasonable price. I figure since figure since they'll make a weirdly curved sword shaped peice of plastic with a hole through the middle, a simple dish/tray should be pretty easy...I actually may look into them myself soon for a dish for my African Bullfrog. They might even be able to make one side ramped lol. I've also seen some shallower plastic bins, but most are only slightly less deep. I'll keep trying to think of some way(s) to help solve this. Good luck!

[synikalspinstress]

So, "preparations" is no longer a fitting word, as I am now the proud owner of three Fire Belly Toads. (They're currently hiding around the tank, and get flighty when I peer at them, so, no pictures yet.)

I have one final question.

I live in North Dakota, so, temperatures vary between boiling lava and surface of Pluto depending on the time of year. Currently, each week it's flipping between mid-80's to low-60's, and sometimes to high-40's. My tank has been sitting in the low-60's, which is just above the minimum for what these toads need to be at. By next week, we're supposed to hit mid-80 again. At the extreme ends of the temperature spectrum, the house temperature gets set to 72 and stay there, so, the tank will be fine for the majority of year. It's just these few weeks when the weather is weird that have been a wild ride trying to decide if I need to heat my tank or not. So, before I do something foolish, like grab my parent's seedling heat mat and try to affix it to the back of my tank, I figured I should ask if I actually need to.

Do I need to heat my tank? At what temperature should I get concerned? If I do need to heat my tank, what method should I use, since I have a rather deep false bottom and thick layer of substrate?

Thank you for all the help so far. Getting these guys would've been a lot more nerve-wracking without all the help.

EDIT: I realize I said "one question" and proceeded to ask fifty thousand. Ha ha.

[daybr4ke]

Hi! I cant wait to see some pictures. I've read they are sensitive to heat, and that heat above the low 80's for prolonged periods can kill them. I checked, and a lot if guides say around 65+ is minimum safe temperature, but I also found a couple saying daytime temps should be around 72-79f, with a slight dip being acceptable at night. They'll probably be fine, but you could get a heating pad and a reptile thermostat. The heating pad can be attached to the tank and then plugged into the thermostat, which will monitor the tank with probes to make sure the temp stays pretty constant, it can even turn it off if it starts getting too hot. This would make sure you have a heating option going if the temp were to drop and you werent home to turn on the house's thermostat(unless it turns on automatically if it gets too hot or too cold.) during the occasional high 40's you mentioned.

[synikalspinstress]

Thank you! That's what I've heard, that it's more dangerous to overheat them than anything, but with how cold it can get, well, I thought'd ask. I'm not worried once winter actually hits, since at -30* the heat'll have to be on. XD It's just this weird period between summer and fall (and spring and summer, really) that's sorta a bear to work with.

How would you recommend placing the heat mat? Underneath probably wouldn't work, because of the false bottom. I've heard about attaching it to the side, but also that it could get too hot for the frogs to be near. Perhaps a smaller heat mat, placed on the side and "beneath" the substrate, so that none, or a minimal amount of the mat itself is visible from the front. And I'm not sure how to make a heat mat stay on the side? Electrical tape, perhaps?

[daybr4ke]

Heating pads usually stay okay on the sides(well, some of mine haven't, one small one peeled off.), but I've only used them on plastic(which technically you aren't supposed to.). I'm actually not sure exactly where to put it. I think they adhere better to glass. I don't know if the false bottom would necessarily be a problem for using a heat pad, but the thin glass creates a problem since heating pads usually come with little rubber "legs" with adhesive backing to create space between the heat pad and the area below the tank to avoid heat buildup, which can increase the risk of fire. I feel like placing the weight of the fully constructed tank on 4 small points could go bad, so your idea if placing the heat pad low on the side may be the best option, but side-mounting doesn't produce a lot of heat compared to putting it on the bottom. I have heard it works better with glass, however. I'd wait until some other members weigh in on It.