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Indeed. This forum ate my account. When I attempt to login under my first account, it's "database error messages". Although I think I contacted the webmaster, the problem persists.
I established another one. If it eats this account, i'm probably not going to establish another.
Hi, if the hood has no way for ventilation yes you will have to change it for the screen top. Your humidity is good but you can let it drop to around 70-75%, I keep all mine at 75%. This way when you mist it doesn't shoot up past 80% for to long, if kept in anything over 80% for long periods of time it can lead to fungal or bacterial infections and even respiratory problems. If you find your losing a lot heat and humidity you can cover half or a little more of the screen top with foil or saran wrap to help keep it in. Your heat can come down in that warm end back down to around the 83f mark that you had and have the opposite side of the tank a few degrees cooler, this way he can thermal regulate his body temps. The highest the heat in the warm end should be is 85F, and from what I have read and seen a lot of people keep it around 82f to 84f. If that UTH is on the bottom you need to have a probe right against it under the substrate to know what the temp is, if its 86F above ground its going to be around 90f or more by the glass and this is way to warm. Something to remember is that these guys bury to cool off. Not saying to not use the UTH if this is the only way to get your temps right, its just something to consider if you can get away with not using it.. For night time what your doing is what you would want to do, you want the temps to drop a few degrees and this should trigger him to come out and eat. For the eating some are way more fussy then others so just keep trying, when are you feeding him? The best time to feed is at night an hour or so after the temps have dropped, and try to have as little light in the room as possible. If your tong feeding try rubbing it under his bottom lip, sometimes this will trigger them to eat. I think you already mentioned you covered some of the sides but if not covering 3 sides of the tank helps and if not already try to have his tank somewhere in the house that has low traffic, they get scared and stressed pretty easy.
Hey all, after lack of responses I kind of gave up on this forum, but after mentioning it to someone, here I am and see I got replies.
I am pleased to say Hyponotoad is doing great and growing. He has a new bigger pool that he loves, and likes to sit and just be a puddle of a frog.
Thank you for the eventual responses and I do understand the site may have been having issues at the time.
His heat is about 83 degrees at a constant and he burrows all the time, there are frog potholes everywhere that I smooth out during cleaning. His humidity hangs out near 70% and I'll mist the enclosure if it begins to drop.
I've only ever witnessed him eat once, but crickets disappear and he's getting fatter, so I know he's been fine.
I'll keep you all updated and maybe get more active on this board w/ photos.
Thank you
how can you tell your pacman frog is happy? a happy pacman frog is a blobby contented frog burrowed into a moist hole for days on end not moving, just staring and absorbing water.
mine got up the other day. the media is getting old and has dried out somewhat. he doesn't like that. when they don't like it, they go on the move.
now he has fresh, particularly moist media. instant happiness. i can see my frog is ready to sit contentedly for, oh, maybe half a week.
i feed mine crickets, worms and pellets. Unfortunately, for the pellets, there's only one way I can get him to eat them. Rubbing his lip is not enough. I have to physically grab my poor frog in one hand. Only then, when there is no hope of escape, will he open his mouth to eat a pellet. I can spend half an hour rubbing a lip and it doesn't work. But if I grab him and rub his lip, he eats it momentarily.
It's fully just how hard they clamp down when they do bite. I've never been bitten, but once the frog clamps down on the pellet, the pellet is now a "frog handle".
I prefer to feed him live food, but live food is not always convenient.
Yes, 83F seems to be the ideal temperature for these critters.
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Honestly you should not have to force feed your frog. The feeding of the pellet is nothing you should force feed. I would just stick to what your frog likes to eat. I have one very shy eating Brazilian captive bred baby pacman and she/he only eats wax worms and crickets. I rub the earthworms on the lower jaw, but I don't force feed my frog. Holding your frog to eat a pellet causes a lot of stress.. Keep letting your frog what it prefers to eat.
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