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Thread: heating

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    california usa

    Default heating

    how does everyone keep their tanks at the correct temp?

    two retfs, 24x18x18 exo terra. even low wattage bulbs (40) are bringing the heat up too high and too fast (it's mounted about four inches above the tank), and are therefore not reliable to leave on while i'm at work. i just bought two 40watts - a red and a blue - and since sun has set here, tried the red to see how long it would take to reach temp. it was 73 when i turned the bulb on; within about 15 minutes it was already at 77.

    i looked into timers, but it was overwhelming, and it's difficult for me to trust that it won't fail and fry them.

    so far the terrarium naturally holds between 70 and 73, which isn't awful, i suppose, but once temperatures drop this winter, i'm going to have a problem; i'm looking for a way for heat to kick on when it hits 73 and turn back off when it hits 76. with such a narrow margin of error, i'm not sure what to do short of quit my job and become a full time frog caretaker.

    any advice?

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  3. #2
    100+ Post Member monster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014

    Default Re: heating

    Hi, I don't own tree frogs but I do own some pacman frogs and I here you about the temps.. It can become a pain very fast. I suggest to buy a thermostat or a hygrotherm, They really make things headache free. I have a few of the zoo med hygrotherms and haven't had a problem with one of them and they make things a lot easier. You set the temp you want and if you have a fogger you set the desired humidity range you need and voila you don't have to worry about it again, you can sit back and enjoy your frogs.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    [United States]
    Somerville, MA

    Default Re: heating

    I have heat cable taped to the back of the enclosure which I turn on in the winter. People say not to do that because the glass will crack when I mist, but I haven't had that problem. I may have it plugged into a rheostat so I can roughly control it.


  5. #4
    100+ Post Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    [United States]

    Default Re: heating

    Fluorescent bulbs run much cooler. LED's are cooler yet, but I'm not completely impressed with them.

  6. #5
    Super Moderator flybyferns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    [United States]
    Huntington .. New York
    Picture Albums: Member Photo Albums

    Default Re: heating

    Cory has a very good idea re the thermostat. aspart as well ... I use cables, too. They simply need supervision.
    The daytime temp can remaian at 78 for the RETF. It should not drop below ( 70-73) 72ish at night. If chilly ,it will result in poor digestion which leads to a can of worms ! Lights... ie 11 and 13 watt LED can be use to keep the plants green. They do give off a little heat of which needs to be kept into consideration, especially in the area where the bulb is really close to the glass.
    Current Collection
    Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
    Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
    Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
    Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
    Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
    Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"

    Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
    Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
    Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"

    Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
    Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
    Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
    Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
    Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
    Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
    Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
    Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
    Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
    Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
    Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"

    Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)

    Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
    Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
    Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
    Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
    Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
    Oophaga histrionica "Tado"

    Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
    Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
    Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
    Ranitomeya vanzolinii

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