Post #1! First-time RETF owner, trying to do everything by the book. Had 'Pale Ale' a little over one week and he's not thriving. He was spending all day and night stationary on the upper part of the glass, then eventually moved to the opposite side lower down, where he stayed for several days. Moves his resting stop lower and lower by the day, but barely moves AM/PM. I was concerned the roaming crickets weren't being eaten so I bought a glass bowl to feed. The first or second night after, I caught him along side the bowl, about to feed (he only comes out when it's pitch black, and of course, he goes comatose when I'm near by). The 3 crickets were gone in the morning.
Since then, he's made the glass bowl his permanent resting spot, day and night. The last live cricket and Pale Ale co-exist in the bowl now; the cricket flailing, Pale Ale playing dead. No signs of movement, I am a night owl/workaholic and check every couple hours while trying not to disturb him
Pic in Bowl: http://i.imgur.com/DJilPJq.jpg
Pic of Tank Setup: http://i.imgur.com/LJS6GKj.jpg (using this setup: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/tree-frog-...-12x12x18.html)
I know RETFs are sensitive to new environments. I know they can go several days without eating. I know humidity and temp consistency is important (I have analog and digital gauges inside, I'm not sure I trust either one completely. But he's less and less mobile. Sinking lower and lower on the glass (now bowl). Not using the water to clean or poop (I've never seen evidence of poop). He's looking skinny.
Answers below to care related Qs. Thank you in advance for your expertise!
1----what 'kind' of frog is it: RETF
2----please include a photo of the frog: See above.
3----Please include a photo of the frog's current enclosure: See above.
4----size of enclosure: 12x12x18
5----# on inhabitants: 1
6----has or was the frog kept with a different species or with any other tank mate: No
7----is there a new tank mate----was the new tank mate quarantined: No
8----what is the typical humidity level: 70s
9----what temperature is maintained: 70s
10---what is, specifically, being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure: Light on/off. Nothing els.
11---describe the enclosure lighting: 13w UVB100 daylight bulb
12---describe enclosure maintenance: Try to change water everyday, but it's rarely used/dirty.
13---what kind of water is used:Water w/ Dechlorinator added for all of the above. Aquasafe for Reptiles.
-----for misting
-----for the frog's soaking dish
-----is de-chlorinator used / what brand
14---material(s) used for substrate - be very specific: Josh's Frog Coco Brick.
15---enclosure set up:
-----if recent - describe how the enclosure was cleaned -hasn't had full cleaning yet, outside of paper towel wipe downs.
-----plants( live or artificial) if artificial plants are used are they plastic or fabric: All artificial, Exo Terra / similar brand + jungle vine.
-----describe wood, bark , and background materials
16---when is the last time the frog ate: Possibly yesterday. Or day before.
17---have you found poop lately:Not clear, not ure.
18---how often is the frog fed: Offered every 1-2 days.
19---what size feeder is given: 1/4" - 1/2" crickets.
20---what other feeders are used as treats: Nothing
21---what is the frog's main food source: Crickets so far.
22---do feeders roam free in the enclosure or is the frog bowl Previously roaming, now bowl fed.
23---vitamins - what brand and how often: Just started adding these to cricket cage
24---calcium - what brand and how often: Whatever is used by Petland when crickets are purchased
25---was the frog without calcium for any period of time: Unclear
26---approximate age of the frog: Unclear.
27---how long have you owned the frog 1-2 weeks
28---who cared for the frog before you: Unclear
29---is the frog wild caught or captive bred; Supposedly captive bred
30---how often the frog is handled -- are gloves used ( what kind of gloves): Only when purchased. Genius Petland employee handled without gloves then handed to me to hold. I used gloves when I brought home, but it hasn't been handled since.
31---is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area: My room. Low?
30---has or was the frog properly quarantined (yes or no): Unclear?
-----for how long
After reading this thread (http://www.frogforum.net/showthread.php?t=251), a bit worried about this: Plastic plants and sterile housing encourages people to close off ventilation and constantly spray the enclosure to keep up the humidity, the resulting large amounts of sitting water encourages bacteria to grow and bacteria kills frogs. There should not be streaming condensation on the walls of the enclosure, good ventilation is required and if anything err on the side of dryer rather than wetter if in doubt.
I've seen condensation on the glass. The plants are plastic. The ground is wetted substrate without a "drainage layer." One of the screens up top is exposed, the other has the canopy top light. I open the doors for several minutes every day. Should I keep a fan on inside my room?
Your set up looks OK (i.e. nothing about it that is going to kill your frog) and ventilation should be fine as it currently stands. Some condensation sometimes is fine (like after spraying), you want to avoid stagnant air and a constantly wet environment. You will never see him move when the light is on, they are only active by night but then he should be moving around, using the water bowl and feeding. Hard to say if there is a pre-existing issue, but from the photo at least he doesn't look too bad. They do suffer with stress and need to left completely alone to acclimate after moving, you could try giving him a little more time with the cage screened off and in a very quiet place to see if things improve? You need to be certain about the temperature too if you can..
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So, literally block off the sides so no outside light? He's in a quiet place but I do check on him and turn the lights on to do so every few hours. Just to be sure. I can try a full night with it off.
I have an analog and a digital thermometer, and both read differently. Within 5* or so. The hygrometer has a bigger difference, the digital fluctuates more.
Still in the same spot, inside the feeder bowl. He pooped once. There are two crickets in the bowl and they seem to be all over him. No reaction. No trip to the water dish. No movements. Still alive. Any thoughts?
Yes, block off so he can't see out and so light can't get in. Obviously maintain a normal day/night cycle of light/dark. If the crickets are crawling over him it will add to the stress, I'd relocate him to a leaf and leave the crickets in the bowl. They are much happier on real plants so could be a good time to introduce one. That's about as much as you can do to alleviate new environment stress, but it does sound like this has been going on too long. Can you take a photo to see how he's looking?
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It looks like you're doing things right. The tank might be a little small, but that shouldn't cause these kinds of problems.
Does petland actually put calcium powder on its crickets? I don't think many petshops do that. But maybe the vitamin powder you've started putting on the crickets has calcium in it.
So, either I'd say he's been stressed and covering the tank/ reducing noise/ keeping the lights off all night might help or else he was sick when you got him.
If it is actually sickness and not just stress I'd be concerned about
1: calcium deficiency- not moving or climbing can be a symptom.
2: some unknown virus
3: fungal infection- but that's usually accompanied by sitting in the water dish all the time, so it's not likely here. Just watch for uneven shedding of skin, patches of skin.
Is it a baby or juvenile? A 10 gallon vertical is waaaaay too small for adult red-eyes. 18 x 18 x 24" minimum.
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Dont be to hard on yourself RETF can be difficult to keep at the beginning especially when you buy younglings.
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