Terrarium Help!

[Glass Frog]

First off, I am completely new at this. So, I need help. I am about to build my first ever terrarium. I originally wanted to just house a pair of tree frogs , but now I also want to add a couple fish too. I plan to have a waterfall and small stream that flows into the pool of water that the fish live in. But, I don't know where to start. I've heard that I should create a false bottom and I've heard don't. What do I do? What do I need?

I want something similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5QTRxbYtK8
Similar, but I don't have a tank this large.

[acpart]

I recommend that you google "DIY vivariums" and "false bottom" and read things, because no single thread is going to provide everything you need. Essentially a "false bottom" is a few layers of stuff to facilitate drainage so the water from misting doesn't just sit in the bottom of the enclosure and get moldy. The thing to think about with fish is whether your viv is of a size where you can provide enough water for the fish so their needs are met without possibly drowning the frogs. when I kept fish if I had a 10 gallon tank full of water, I was still limited to only a relatively few fish.

Aliza

[Pyru]

They set that tank up more for a terrestrial frog ( tinctorius azur dart frog). The 40 breeder I wouldn't think would have the optimal height for tree frogs.

A water feature can be accomplished several ways. Google custom vivarium water feature and check out the videos. You going to create 2 types of environments within your tank seperated my a water proof boarder. You could probably use pond sealant foam used for outdoor water features. Usually the false bottom is approx 4" covered by a mesh barrier then abg mix then leaf litter (darts) or moss. You also typically use springtails and isopods in the soil as a cleanup crew (you have to culture these but not hard). This sounds daunting but isn't that complicated.

The water side you can use what ever for substrate. However you will need to find a place to hide your pump filter heater etc but you can still access it if need be. You will also need to leave a place to siphon excess water from your vivarium side. If your substrate is constantly sitting in water it will rot and smell like a swamp.

If I was going to do something like this I would use a 55 gallon plus setup with a sump. That way you can keep more water volume and hide all your equipment. In that small of tank the juice is worth the squeeze. In that youtube video linked I bet you would have to change the water dang near everyday to have acceptable nitrate levels

[privet01]

In the end, it just depends on what works for you. However as mentioned the less water volume you have in your tank, the quicker nitrate levels will increase to unhealthy levels.

False bottoms probably give you one of the easiest ways to increase water volume with minimum of plumbing if any.

Sump tanks give you the most options. You can add as big a sump tank as you want. You can use just about any filtration system you want and if designed with water changes in mind, can make changing water a snap. However there are plumbing issue you have to be able to handle and making holes in glass tanks for some designs.

Gravel can also be used to make a type of false bottom. It allows you to build areas of dry land on top of the gravel that is above the waterline. The wetted part of the gravel can be used to your benefit for filtration and it also allows the growth of beneficial bacteria that convert nitrates and ammonia to help keep your water quality acceptable longer. Gravel is what I use in a 10 gallon viv. But I admit it quickly gets too heavy if you try to go bigger. But using expanded clay which in it's costlier form is called hydro-balls, you can mitigate the additional weight up to a point and still get the benefit of having a place for beneficial bacteria to grow.

there is also the divided vivarium where some silicone a glass or plastic divider between the wet area and dry. But this, IMO, is prone to leaking, does not allow you to maximize water volume and certainly doesn't allow colonies of beneficial bacteria to establish themselves.

But again, in the end it boils down to what kind of setup has the ongoing maintenance requirements that you are willing to do week after week, month after month and year after year.