Myth?

[privet01]

I use only one linear T8 tube for light in my 10gal (3.8L) tank. Like your's it is almost the length of the tank. With the room temperature currently running about 74F, the water in the tank is showing 72F and the rock they bask on about 75F. The the moss substrate stays the coolest at about 68F. My two B. orientalis, seem to spend the majority of their time in 1 to 2 inch deep water. The remaining time they seem to divide up evenly between the rock and laying on the moister part of the substrate by the waters edge. They also seem spend as much time out of the light in their little hideouts/caves, as they do in the light irregardless of whether they are on the dry or in the water.

If I had a bigger tank, I'd probably add a more intense basking light as well as increase the overall lighting. However I think in the small tank they are content with temps as they are. Even in the winter months when the viv temps run about 65F they show little slow down in activity. Another down side to higher overall temps I have not seen mentioned elsewhere, is that decay/rotting of wet substrate and other organic material will be quicker as well as mold and mildew issues potentially may increase.

And to add another side note on the lighting. I let my previous bulb get too old and didn't realize how dim it was actually getting. When I replaced it I noticed that both my FBT's seemed to green up more on top and overall appeared healthier looking. Though I admit I have no expertise to truly judge their health. I think I probably ned to get in the habit of replacing the bulb every six months.

[jasonm96]

Sounds like a good system What tubes you using? If you go for European made lamps, they can sometimes last longer. I like zoomeds reptisuns. I agree, they definitely do better with bright lighting on them imo. I remember when I first got oriental fire-bellied toads when I first started and the guy at the pet shop told me that they should be kept without light as they'll shun it, but we all know how pet shop staff can be.

[privet01]

The bulb is a GE F15T8 SP35. Since it's not sold as a specialty bulb it doesn't cost much. GE publishes the wavelength spectrum for the different phosphor coatings used in their bulbs. This one as well as several others put out into the UV spectrum and the output graph seems to match very well with the higher cost specialty bulbs sold for UV.

It's the last four alphanumerics in the bulb code that tell you the phosphor type in GE's linear fluorescent tubes. SP35 in the case of the bulb I'm using. You can find GE bulbs in other sizes that use this same phosphor coating.

Though I will admit the cost of specialty UV bulbs for amphibians has come down, but still it goads me to pay extra just because they put a picture of an amphibian on the box. As far as I know fluorescent bulbs naturally produce a lot of UV. Its the type of phosphor coating used that determines how much UV escapes. Some allow none to get out and convert it all to visible light.

[jasonm96]

The thing is though, reptile lamps are not normal lamps and they command a higher price for a reason. They are tweaked to be safe and produce suitable UV levels for reptiles and amphibians, with different lamps for species or distance from animal. Household lamps are designed to just produce light for us and could be dangerous long term to herps

[privet01]

Well I looked at the graphs of wavelengths output by the GE bulbs and compared them to the few graphs I could find for the reptile bulbs. I'm convinced there is not much difference. Especially in the lower cost reptile bulbs. The Sun puts out quite a bit more light in more wavelengths than fluorescent lights do. So I can't see them as dangerous.