My frog is being weird

[DG Kim]

Hi, if you have your heat matt on the same end as your 40 watt light he might be avoiding that area because as suggested it may be too hot. Im thinking you should be able to be ok with just the 40 watt bulb. Is there any way you could post a picture of your setup, it could be something as simple as were you have your thermometer placed not giving a proper temp reading. And when you say the heat and humidity is were its supposed to be what are the exact measurements? Another thing im thinking is you mentioned he usually does this after eating, how much are you feeding him? Could it be he is still possibly hungry and hes looking for more food?

This site keeps saying my pictures are an invalid image file so whatever on that, but the ambient temperature in the warm spot is around 78 and the substrate temp right by the mat is around 73. As for humidity, the bulb saps the ambient humidity too much so I cover half of the top and have a fogging machine set to every four hours while it's on (substrate stays moist though, maybe even too moist). I use a digital thermometer and hygrometer for measurements so I suppose it's accurate.

As for why he behaves like this after feeding, I also thought maybe it was because he was still hungry. I usually drop in crickets until he stops eating but I did run out of crickets last feeding so...

[monster]

For the pictures you have to upload to photobucket or imugr and then copy and paste from there. You want to try and have you temps around 80f mark and 82f IMO is pretty much spot on perfect. For the substrate you don't want it to be wet, so if you think its a little on the wet side you may want to change the settings on your fogger. Try to get your temps up abit and see if this helps, if he isn't warm enough he wont be able to digest properly and it will make him not want to eat and want to look for somewhere warmer.

[jasonm96]

Good advice from cory. What I would do is keep humidity around at least 70% even up to 90%. Thing with fanatasy is there mixed with cranwelli, which require moderate humidity but with cornuta requires higher as its a forest species. Keep temps within 78-84 during the day, no lower than 70s during the night. Ideally use a heat bulb ontop or if heat is needed at night as well as daytime, use a ceramic heat emitter connected to a thermostat. Heat mats aren't the best heating option unless used underneath connected to a thermostat but many hobbyists are against this.

[DG Kim]

For the pictures you have to upload to photobucket or imugr and then copy and paste from there. You want to try and have you temps around 80f mark and 82f IMO is pretty much spot on perfect. For the substrate you don't want it to be wet, so if you think its a little on the wet side you may want to change the settings on your fogger. Try to get your temps up abit and see if this helps, if he isn't warm enough he wont be able to digest properly and it will make him not want to eat and want to look for somewhere warmer.

Ah seems like a hassle with the pictures.

Anyways, I think I may have figured it out. I was feeding him last night and I got a good whiff of the tank and it smelled foul. I think the substrate was too wet which is my fault since I would occasionally pour water and stir it around a bit to keep humidity up, but hadn't checked the substrate moisture in a while (the ambient humidity levels led me to believe it wasn't wet enough). So I cleaned the tank today and I guess I'll see how it goes.

I think the temps are fine since like I said, he is eating and pooping regularly, and he also normally avoids the warm side on his own. We got through a very cold winter like this and it's finally going to be getting warm next week so temps should be rising naturally anyways.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions!

[jasonm96]

Good rule is if it smells bad then time for a change. The substrate can usually be moist but not wet. Depending on how much you pour water and stir it up this may be fine. Use an accurate hygrometer to access humidity, so far I've found the zoo med ones to be good. Put it in the middle of the tank for good readings. If temps drop below before the warmer months come use a ceramic heat emitter (usually 40-60w in my experience) connect it to a thermostat to allow natural night time drops (low 70s). Any problems, feel free to dm me, even cory I would imagine would be happy to assist, good guy