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  1. #1
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    Default Heat Cable

    Hey Y'all,

    Does anyone know of an effective way of heat using an Exo Terra heat cable? My set up right now is an 12X12X18 (imperial measurement) I know that's tall but its what I got until I buy him one of those new pod terrariums. I use a heat mat on the side of the terrarium, several small plastic plants about half of the terrarium is covered in shade and about 2 and a half inches of coco fiber substrate.

    I mist the terrarium about twice a day and keep the humidity 70-80% the temperature on the hot side is about 80-85 but it seems to fluctuate too much. Right now I have the cable taped to the back of the inside of the terrarium behind the Exo Terra foam insert. I feel like the cable is only heating the outside glass away from the terrarium.

    I don't feel that the cable is really doing much and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas how to utilize the cable better. Any help would be fantastic, thanks.

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    Default Re: Heat Cable

    I should mention that lunchbox is still young probably only 2 and a half inches. Seems healthy regular lazy steady diet of juicy home raised night crawlers. Has been burying himself almost completely lately and I have never seen it soak in the water bowl even though I change it everyday, never any coco residue in the water.

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    Default Re: Heat Cable

    Heat Mats and heat cables on the side don't do much for an animal that is burrowed most of the time, as it won't really use them, as they are contact heat sources and do not really warm the ambient air temperature, unless placed underneath moist substrate which will then buffer some heat. Underneath it will provide usable heat but unless connected to a thermostat (probe under substrate on top of glass) it may burn the animal. Even if connected to a thermostat so the animal will not get burned. It will still be unnatural for the animal to burrow in order to heat up but will be more effective, though downward heat is more natural and so better. Also putting it behind a background will let no heat pass. Downward heat is better but in a terrarium that high and small it may be hard to supply the heat and or supply the right thermal gradient. Id always recommend a normal 10 gallon and put around a 40w heat lamp on top as well as a natural light lamp that produces UVA.

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    Default Re: Heat Cable

    Alright, I have a light right now very low wattage that provides UVA and I use it just to stablish a day/night cycle. I will remove the heat cable and look into getting a 40w today at the store. I have a electronic gauge to monitor the temperature and humidity, I guess Ill mess around a little bit more to get the right humidity/ temperature combination. I didn't know much before I bought the terrarium or I would have gotten the lower 12 inch high model. I think ill spurge and get http://biopod.org/ when it releases in May. I just want Lunchbox happy until then. Well looking at the bipod its 18 inches tall, so might just snag me that 10 gallon lol.

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    Default Re: Heat Cable

    You might need more than a 40w for that height but I wouldn't worry too much about humidity, as I've said many times, horned frogs (accept from cornutas) are not tropical and so do not need high humidity but 60% suits most frogs well but if you can't reach this patches of sphagnum moss will help. If you're looking into another tank id go for a 15 gallon at least because I think most adult horned frogs - although males might be fine in a 10 gallon - females will be better in 15-20 gals

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    Default Re: Heat Cable

    Okay good deal I will use a quick remedy right now with a slightly higher wattage bulb. With it being so young I have read that large spaces such as a 15 gallon would stress it out? Should I stick with a smaller one and then once an adult upgrade it?

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    Default Re: Heat Cable

    Yeah I'd consider at least 60w maybe more because it will take a lot of energy to reach the floor. Imo enlosure size won't stress the animal out providing you give it enough hides and cover so it won't feel out in the open but may effect its ability to catch prey before supplements wear off. So one way is to provide lots of cover and then tong feed or preferably raise in a smaller tank so it can catch its prey itself, if you're frog is really small. If you can establish the right temp gradient in the tank you have it would be ideal. If you can't, I'd highly recommend a large plastic tank and then putting the heat mat underneath, connecting it to a thermostat so the floor temperature (underneath the subtrate) measures around high 70s to low 80s, this will not burn the frog but will provide it enough heat. Many people will go against this but fact is at the beginning most horned frogs were probably raised like this and fared well, it is certainly better than having the mat on the side and not providing the right temps, which will cause many health problems. If you need any guidance, my bible with horned frogs is chacoan horned frogs by Philippe de Vosjoli

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