Clearing up a few discrepancies

[jasonm96]

Hey!

Horned frogs eat other frogs and anything they can get fit in their mouths in the wild so they will get D3 when eating whole prey items with organs, unlike other frogs which may only be able to eat small insects (and which may need to bask to produce D3 instead). UVB seems not to be necessary when their diet is varied and supplemented with calcium with D3 but whether or not they will use UVB lighting I'm not sure. It would be good practice always to at least use a bulb that emits UVA and creates a day and night cycle.

Babies will need fed every 1-2 days, sub adults twice a week and adults every 7-10 days. When using insects I'd recommend always supplementing them with calcium with D3.

They're pretty hardy with humidity but best kept moist, so around 60-80%. A water dish should always be provided.

They will not thrive at room temperature at all, they need at least 78F during the day. It's probably best to give reptiles/phibs a thermal gradient anyway, allows them to regulate their body temperature as they wish, right now as we speak my crested gecko is basking. You'll get mixed reviews on what heating to use. I personally use both (not at the same time) and use what ever is convenient to my set up. Whatever you do, don't buy a UHT and stick it on the side, it's useless and if you don't keep your frog warm they will suffer. If they can't raise their body temperature at the right temp to function, they won't eat enough and be able to use the supplements in the best way they can. I'd either use it on the bottom connected to a thermostat and deal with hate or use the overheard lighting by a heat lamp or ceramic, which seems to be most peoples favourites but they kill humidity.

I'd recommend purchasing a good book like AVS chacoan horned frogs.