Clearing up a few discrepancies

[yoshismom]

Hi all!
I'm new to the frog forum here but have been on The Pangea boards and Geckos Unlimited boards for many years. I'm a gecko person mostly but I also keep hedgehogs, rats and hermit crabs. I'm currently breeding both crested and gargoyle geckos as well as keeping a few other species but may be expanding to E. Agricolae very soon as well. I'll be on the look out for a pair at Tinely in a few weeks.
So... Onto the real reason I'm here.
I recently got a very nice bonus at work and am interested in getting a little pacman frog to add to my zoo. I've always loved those cute blorpy faces. So it's time to get one.
So I've been doing lots of research and ran into a few things that I need cleared up if possible.
Firstly, I've read that UVB lighting is not necessary and I've read that it is. Can someone verify?
I've also read that they are voracious eaters, which is ok with me as my leopard gecko pounds bugs. I'd just like to know how often to feed them and how often you dust and with which calcium. With or without D3?
I'm not stranger to humidity as I have lots of geckos I mist down every morning and night. Will this schedule work for a pacman froggle? I know to keep the substrate moist just not sopping.
I've also heard that there should be a water dish and I've heard that it's not necessary. What would you all recommend?
As far as heating, will room temperature be sufficient? I keep all of my geckos (plus the ones that require heating) in the same room at room temperature of about 72-74F. Will this be ok, or should I purchase a heating element? And if so, which would you recommend? Overhead or UTH?
I think that's about it for the questions. If I have anything else, I'm sure I'll ask.
Thanks!!

[jasonm96]

Hey!

Horned frogs eat other frogs and anything they can get fit in their mouths in the wild so they will get D3 when eating whole prey items with organs, unlike other frogs which may only be able to eat small insects (and which may need to bask to produce D3 instead). UVB seems not to be necessary when their diet is varied and supplemented with calcium with D3 but whether or not they will use UVB lighting I'm not sure. It would be good practice always to at least use a bulb that emits UVA and creates a day and night cycle.

Babies will need fed every 1-2 days, sub adults twice a week and adults every 7-10 days. When using insects I'd recommend always supplementing them with calcium with D3.

They're pretty hardy with humidity but best kept moist, so around 60-80%. A water dish should always be provided.

They will not thrive at room temperature at all, they need at least 78F during the day. It's probably best to give reptiles/phibs a thermal gradient anyway, allows them to regulate their body temperature as they wish, right now as we speak my crested gecko is basking. You'll get mixed reviews on what heating to use. I personally use both (not at the same time) and use what ever is convenient to my set up. Whatever you do, don't buy a UHT and stick it on the side, it's useless and if you don't keep your frog warm they will suffer. If they can't raise their body temperature at the right temp to function, they won't eat enough and be able to use the supplements in the best way they can. I'd either use it on the bottom connected to a thermostat and deal with hate or use the overheard lighting by a heat lamp or ceramic, which seems to be most peoples favourites but they kill humidity.

I'd recommend purchasing a good book like AVS chacoan horned frogs.

[yoshismom]

Thanks so much for the response.
I intend to vary the diet as much as I can. So I'll be sure to dust as well as feed at appropriate intervals for it's size/age.
Like I said, I'm no stranger to humidity loving species, so I'll just keep up with my regular misting schedule and include my new little frogger.
I'll keep a water dish in there as well.
I have a few heating elements lying around from previous species, so I'll be sure to test temp and humidity this week while I get the enclosure all set up.
Thanks again!

[jasonm96]

No problem, feel free to ask in DM if you have any more questions or problems.

Good to hear, a varied diet is a must! On top of a varied diet I use calcium plus for dusting, which I highly recommended. It's balanced so can be used every feed so you know you're supplementing the diet right and no risks of under or over supplementing, well unless you don't coat the crickets right. MBD can be a problem with these guys so correct diet, supplementing and temperatures are very important. A fogger will be great when using heat lamps or ceramics but not necessary if using heat mats. I'd aim for around 80F during the day and 75F the night. Something I must warn you about is I've found a lot of conflicting information (and sometimes incorrect) on the internet, so wouldn't use that as your main source for info but instead that book, which I consider the horned frog bible.

[yoshismom]

Awesome.
I have lots of calcium and multi vitamins on hand since I've got hungry cresties, gargs, a leo, a leachie and a pictus. I know MBD is an issue with most reptiles if they don't have proper nutrition.
I have a spare UVB/heat bulb so I'll set it on a thermostat and start testing temps tonight.
He/she will be in a room that gets lots of natural light as well.
Thanks again for all the info.

[jasonm96]

I had no doubt you'd know but I just wanted to emphasise that with horned frogs it can happen more easily since they eat such a varied diet in the wild containing more vertebrates in the wild that insects, unlike geckos and some popular reptiles and so insects are not nutriotionally best for them but just more convenient. Even with the proper nutrition UVB lights imo are a must for even nocturnal/crepuscular species but not so much with horned frogs but I'd watch out for new information. Note that anything less than 5% above mesh (2% bulbs, which are often recommended) do not supply UVB. Wish you and your future frog all the best

Jason