The only way you will know if it is Chytrid for sure, in early stages, is if she is tested and comes up positive for B.d. The heat treatment for Chytrid is more involved than you think, so I would watch out going that route as frogs can dehydrate and die. The recommended treatment by our vet was an Itraconazole solution bath (it's by prescription), soak frog 5 minutes daily for 11 days, and do a complete breakdown/clean and bleach (1/2 cup regular bleach to 1 gallon of water) of EVERYTHING your frog comes in contact with every single day (use only non-porous, easily disinfected décor). Having to do this for all 7 of my frogs and each enclosure every day was exhausting but I got through it. This was just a preventative treatment too, as my original frogs never had any issues with this dreaded disease, and things seem same as usual for them 57 days after the last treatment. I planned on testing a few days after the final treatment to make doubly sure everyone was all clear, but our temps skyrocketed up into the upper 90's/100+ degrees, so I held off as I was worried the excessive heat would make the tests non-viable if the ice pack melted before reaching the lab. All the frogs seemed to handle treatment well except for Honey-Lime, my problem child. I think the medication adversely effected him, possibly exacerbating the gastric issues he's had from coccidiosis. He just doesn't want to eat, and when he does it seems to be painful or bother him somehowI think I'm going to have to wind up putting him on a prepared meal, like pacman food mixed with Reptaboost, something that is nutritious but easy to digest and without any hard bits like leg parts or heads.
I have no experience with using salt in the water, but I would beware of that until you get more info. I have, however, used 100% all natural organic coconut water (mixed with dechlor water) in place of Pedialyte with no apparent problems. If you suspect Chytrid then time is of the essence and you need to get her tested immediately, this can be a very fast acting disease, but conversely it can also hang on if the frog is getting other supportive therapy other than the anti-fungal treatment... at least this was my experience with my poor Pole Bean frog![]()





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I think I'm going to have to wind up putting him on a prepared meal, like pacman food mixed with Reptaboost, something that is nutritious but easy to digest and without any hard bits like leg parts or heads.
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