Sorry your frog didn't make it![]()
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Sorry your frog didn't make it![]()
Sorry to hear about you frog.
I know it doesn't help, but you did all you could. Dwarf frog diseases are often difficult to diagnose. They are bred at farms in outdoor ponds, which means that they are essentially wild caught. Then, to make matters worse, most pet shops have no idea how to keep them and feed them fish flakes and other fish foods that do not have adequate nutrition. Unfortunately, most pet shops won't take advice from their customers.
I agree with Jen about keeping an eye on your other frog for a while before getting him a friend. Once you're sure he's ok, you will need to get another frog for him. They are social creatures that need the company of other frogs for optimum health. Just be sure to quarantine new frogs, as Jen suggested, before adding them to you tank.
I hope everything goes well for your frog.
Thanks guys. Do you think this may be caused by the fact that my tank is still in the process of cycling? Granted I change the water at least 50% every 2 days (3 days Max), and use SeaChem Prime but still. Could one frog be more sensitive to water parameters than the other?
That could definitely be a contributing factor. You should do a daily or twice daily water change if the tank isn't cycled. I you don't already have a test kit, then you should buy one ASAP. Check for ammonia and nitrites in the morning and at night. Since frogs have permeable skin, toxins in the water affect them quickly.
But if the other frog isn't showing signs of stress, then I would guess that there were other factors involved as well. Having a tank that isn't cycled probably stressed her enough that some pathogen took advantage of her lowered immune system.
Prime will bind ammonia, but only to a point. And frogs are notoriously messy eaters which causes ammonia to build up quickly.
Thanks! I will definitely be doing daily 50% water changes now. Also I have a liquid Ammonia test, but I will get the test kit for everything else soon. Although, I do have a lot of trouble reading the tests because I am red/green colorblind, and cannot differentiate between the colors.
A friend of mine had the same issue with the test kits. He showed me how he reads the tests. Instead of placing the testing vial next to the colors on the chart, he places it directly over the color chart. When he looks through the vial, the color box closest to the color of the test will "disappear." It's not entirely accurate, but gives him a ballpark figure +/- 1ppm. If this doesn't work for you, send me a PM and I'll try to help out if I can.
Also, just a head's up, doing necessary daily water changes will slow down the cycle. So it may take several weeks more to fully cycle your tank. You will also want to test your tap water for ammonia and nitrites about once a week to make sure your tap water isn't adding any toxins.
One more idea that will help a bit. If your local fish store sells plants, try to find some floating plants such as duckweed or frogbit. You can also float some water wisteria. These plants will help filter the tank.
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