Ok John, I didn't plan on going through it line by line because I didn't want it to look as if I was attacking everything he said or something but since you asked for a more extensive response...
Toads in general tend to hide or "just sit there" primarily when things are to dry(of course no frog moves around all the time but I don't think that was what was meant). If captive conditions are right they are at least as active as most other frogs. As far as why oak toads are singled out as "more active" I have no idea as their activity level seems to be quite normal, only difference is they are one of the species that is primarily diurnal so that might have some effect. Even nocturnal species commonly move around during the day though in captivity. This is a extreme example of it but as a matter of fact my southern toads seem to have become almost completely diurnal over the several years I have had them. They are out and about every single day and at night huddle up and sleep or burrow most of the time. Don't ask me why they decided to do that though, I haven't figured it out yet. Anyway the point is you certainly will see all species of toads moving around at times when the lights are on. The night vision goggles comment is pretty funny.I meant toads in general arent active. I know what you meant by active. Toads in general tend to hide or just sit there. Only toad that will move around more abit are oak toads which are small.
Toads are inactive and will hide. All of them besides the oak toads will. Even the simple american toads. Only time you will ever see them move around is if you get night vision goggles and look at them when the lights are off.
Some are more shy than others but most will tame down pretty well with time. As a whole I wouldn't say this species is shy or prone to hiding at all. The squirting comment I wouldn't doubt at all as that is pretty common defensive behavior in many species.Cane toads will hide.... I like my cane toad. But she hides, so she can be dull sometimes. If you pick her up she squirts(pee) on you. Shes skittish as are pretty much most cane toads
A completely inaccurate assertion.Toads are skittish in general.
Ok , lets deal with this bit.Cane toads NEED a large enclosure, and they foul up the tank quickly. Cane toads need A BARE MINIMUM of 75gallon. Know why? The normal cane toad female gets to be 9inches or more. Males get to be 7inches and tend to grow bigger as they get older. They are active at night when the lights are out(you can keep em on and they will still hide). So they still need the space. The fact that they are powerful jumpers means they shouldnt go in anything less. Males can go in a 55g. A trio of males can go in that. A Trio of females can go in a 75g. Just dont keep em in a 40breeder or a 10gallon or anything small. These animals need to stretch their legs fully and not smack their faces into the glass when they hop. They dont walk, they hop.We are told that cane toads need "A BARE MINIMUM of 75gallon". Skipping over for now the fact that this is a inaccurate statement lets go to the reason given for why this is supposedly necessary. We are told that a "normal" cane toad female gets to 9 inches or more while males get to be around 7 inches. This is also wrong unless by a "normal" cane toad you only mean canes that come out of the back country of Suriname and Guyana. Those are probably a separate race and are only rarely available in the hobby in small numbers and always command a premium price. Most of the canes in the USA hobby are wc in florida. These max out at around 6.5 inches or so for females and usually around 5 inches for males. I guarantee no wc female cane from Florida will reach 9 inches and the difference between a 6.5 inch toad and a 9 inch toad is huge. The latter easily has twice the mass of the former. Now lets go back to what we are told on tank size. We are told that a trio of males can go into a 55 gal. but not a 40 gal. breeder. That really defies logic since a 55 gal. is actually narrower than a 40 gal. breeder and supposedly the reason at least a 55 gal. is needed is so they won't bang their nose on the glass(not an issue with most toads anyway since most species are not particularly nervous nor are they powerful jumpers when compared to other frogs). I have had a pair of rococo toads in a 40 gal. breeder for quite some time and they are larger than the average cane toad if you don't count the giant Suriname or Guyana race of cane toad. They are active healthy and hearty eaters and they certainly don't beat themselves up on the glass. I am quite sure moving them to a 75 wouldn't make the slightest difference.
Dumpys certainly are no more active than most toads so I don't know where that comes from. Firebellies are indeed active so I would agree with that.If you want anything that will not be hiding go for a dumpys tree frog or some firebellied toads. But toads will defenitely hide alot.
Again, this is based on what? In reality these toads are extremely adaptable provided they have access to water. They will no doubt do fine in a "garden set up"(what ever that is lol) but the same is true for a wide variety of setups.As for a set up, you need a heavily planted garden set up. These toads prefer to hang around gardens.
Maybe I am reading this wrong but it seems like that this is two totally contradictory statements. He says it can't be to moist and then recommends 50% humidity which is quite dry. 50% humidity and lower is getting into the levels they get out in west texas and arizona. Dry as a bone. If he is keeping his cane at 50% humidity that may explain why it hides all the time, it is trying to conserve moisture. While canes can survive just fine with such low levels of humidity provided they have a water bowl it isn't optimal and is very likely to produce a toad that hides more often such as he describes.It cant be overly moist. If you have a hydrometer keep the humidity at 50%.
While providing a range of temps for the toad is in theory a positive and certainly doesn't hurt only 5 degrees difference between the cool end and the warm end makes virtually no difference at all. Such a small variation would not be helpful but it would at least be harmless.Put heat bulbs, the ones that dont give off a light keep it on all night and day on one end. Make sure one end is 80 and the cooler end is 75.
Concerning lots of hiding places, there is nothing wrong with that though it probably isn't needed, one would likely be enough. I do wonder where the "Make sure it has at least 5inches of dirt" comes from though. While they can bury themselves in loose substrate and will occasionally, both in the wild and in captivity they tend to dig only very shallow depressions and sit in those. In the wild they rarely dig deeper than the leaf litter. They aren't what I would consider a burrowing toad in most situations.Give it LOTS of hiding places. Make sure it has atleast 5inches of dirt(deep).
Agree with this.Don't use coco husk. These toads HATE coco husk. Not just these toads, toads in general hate it. coco husk sticks to their skin and irritates them. Use plain dirt.
Agree with this too.give it a large bowl of water for soaking.
There John, a statement by statement elaboration. Better?
BTW Deku, like I said in another post I don't want to pick on you and everyone has to start somewhere, so try not to take this statement by statement rebuttal of nearly everything you said in this post to personally. Keep working with frogs and trying to avoid making stuff up out of thin air and gradually you will get more knowledgeable and won't need to make stuff up anymore.![]()