Giant Waxy Monkey Frog help.

[Diver]

Here's the new look enclosure taking shape. PVC piping of various thicknesses and nice smooth willow canes. Although I didn't see it on the other frogs, apparently wounds on hands from rough wood is one of the biggest problems in captivity so this type of set up is the preferred choice. Makes monitoring food intake and fecal production a lot easier of course and I'll be setting up the CCTV system again to see what these guys get up to.
The frog from the original group is being kept separately in a Reptibreeze but with a similar set up.

[irThumper]

Hi Diver, sorry I didn't get to your post to me, I was totally busy medication my own guys and bleaching the hell out of everything here as well I actually don't have a herp vet, he's a companion pet (dogs and cats primarily) but I know he was a Beardie owner so figured he was my best shot locally. He at least is willing to work with me and do the research and tests and everything that is needed, so that's a relief!

I was just going with a gut feeling on the Chytrid from the sound of your frogs, the posture (though I know it's supposed to be normal for these guys) the not moving or eating, and the difficulty shedding and then hanging out in the water and the way your one frog looked in his death picture The only conclusive way to know is to test, though. I treated my guys with Itraconazole bath solution (made up by the vet) 5 min a day for 10-11 days (they showed absolutely no signs of sickness, so this was preventative measures) and will be getting them tested this week to see where we are at.

I'm crossing my fingers for the poor guys you brought home. I sure hope you can fix them up and they will survive and thrive for you. I am definitely in agreeance about the testing and medicating of the new guys right from the get go. The sooner you can get a head start on any potential problems (other than the obvious ones they already have) the better. Good luck and keep us updated!

[Diver]

No worries Thump, by the sounds of things you'd have probably made the same call? I can't honestly say that there's been any change in the frog's behaviour for having had the treatment, but there has been no recurrence of that nasty blood-looking seepage since the day it happened so that's good whatever the reason.

So the new ones have moved in to their new home, I gave each an electrolyte bath as I moved them in and the cctv is running:



Here's everyone's profile for anyone who wants to play the sexing game!

Number 1:



Number 2:



Number 3:



Number 4:



And the one I've now had for three months, number 5:

[Lija]

The last pic is a female. Sry not able to go through the thread now, will hopefully do so tomorrow. Are you testing/treating guys for parasites? I also suggest to do full on quarantine for everybody separately until tests are negative and you are sure everybody are ok, eating/pooping. Cover the sides or think of something so they won't see much around, it will minimize their stress levels and help them heal better. It's especially the case with recent imports like yours. Also watch for the nose rubs, if flamazine not helping much, get some systemic antibiotics. I found combination of both is the best, but it's doesn't look too bad to use a heavy stuff yet.

[Diver]

Hi Lija, yes the last pic is the female from the first ones I bought. It looks like all four new ones are male to me. A trip to the vet yesterday has swabs taken for chytrid and ranavirus, but I won't get the test results back for ten days or more.
Much faster was a fecal exam (there was a sample in the box one of them came in and also a new one in the cage yesterday morning) which was done immediately by Gary at Cambridge Reptiles for me. Both were positive for small amounts of worm eggs and protozoan.
As far as separate quarantine is concerned, I housed the new ones together as they were shipped together and have been kept in the same enclosure together for the last 6 weeks, I assumed that if one has chytrid of ranavirus then they all would? Or might this not be the case? (They are being kept separate from my original of course)
I've ordered some Metronidazole (Flagyl 250mg tabs) and some Panancur (100ml bottle with 1 ml of suspension containing 100 mg active ingredient fenbendazole),
but I'm finding contradictory information about doseage. The frogs weigh around 100g, any suggestions from anyone who has used these medications with frogs successfully before?
The frogs have also been started on Baytril baths (10% oral solution dissolved at 0.5ml to 100ml water) due to the amount of infected abrasions (hands/feet as well as noses/mouths). The instructions are for 6-8 hours over 5 days but the frogs aren't keen to sit in it that long. I'm sure I read on here 15 min baths were the normal recommendation but I can't find it now. Again, can anyone suggest what the tried and tested method for bathing frogs in Baytril is?

I'm asking for a lot of help again it seems! Hopefully this thread will serve to help others considering this species. I'd love to think that it becomes possible to breed these in captivity, the availability of CB animals would reduce the demand for WC animals which from what I've seen to date can only be a good thing.

[Lija]

I'll pm you with the dosage a bit later, have very limited time now, pls remind me if I forget.
Thats great, you do everything right! you are also right that whatever one have, everybody will. The reason for separate qt is so you can monitor everybody separately, without anybody possibly bullying anyone.,you can clearly see who is eating, who is pooping and how. Also when you start treating and do control testing afterwards, you will be able to do so separately, because you know who's poop is where. It is possible, that someone needs more meds or longer treatment cycle, this way you don't need to repeatedly treat everybody, only those who need it as well you minimize the risk of possible reinfection between frogs.

[Diver]

Thank you Lija! That's really helpful Understood about separating for quarantine period now, I'll look at providing a set of smaller mesh cages. I've got an entire room solely devoted to this project so I can just heat the whole room accordingly to keep it simple.