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    100+ Post Member irThumper's Avatar
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    Default Re: White's/Dumpy Tree Frog Having Issues

    I hate to sound abrupt but I think your frog is on her way out... She's bloated, mottled, "secreting mucus", her legs are definitely not normal, and she's starting to twitch? My guess is she's either impacted, toxing out, or suffering from MBD, parasites or a combo thereof. If she didn't have the bloating, twitching and leg thing I'd say she was trying to gear down for winter and go into hibernation; WTFs in the wild will cover themselves in a mucousy slime to prevent water loss before they hole up for the winter. So unless the bloating was her taking on water prior to this slime coating... but like I said, the leg thing and twitching...

    Most of what goes wrong with frogs occurs due to poor management practices-- wrong heat and temp (you are not monitoring it), wrong feeder choice (mealworms are not a good for WTFs), water quality (what are you using? Is it dechlorinated?), supplementation (what are you using and how often?) housing (size?) substrate (moss is a huge impaction risk) I'm sorry but you should have done your research before things got this far. I know this sounds harsh, but it is a tough lesson to learn. PLEASE do answer the questions posted to you, twice now, as this is the only way people will be able to help you now or in the future. READ HERE PLEASE http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...enclosure.html

    If there is any chance at all for this poor frog to survive you need to do a few things ASAP:

    --Get her in a quarantine tank (if she is small a 5.5 gallon tank or 10 gallon will work)
    --Use plain white paper towels on the floor
    --Provide a fake plant(s) and hiding spot for her- make sure all decor is non-porous and easy to disinfect.
    --Get her a water dish that is deep enough for her to soak up to her chin when seated-- USE DECHLORINATED WATER (either tap water or spring water with Reptisafe is good- Petco carries Reptisafe) Use this same water for misting her enclosure. (Water spots are nothing compared to the frogs health, so I personally avoid distilled- my preference)
    --Get a good DIGITAL temperature and humidity gauge-- avoid the cheapo ones sold by Petco.
    --Safe temps are around 80F daytime and 73-75F nightime. Watch out for habitat drying out when using paper towels for substrate and maintaining proper heat...If you can't keep proper humidity in the smaller tanks with paper towels for substrate then MIST more often. Avoid completely covering the top of the cage with anything, a sick frog will especially need good ventilation, if you do opt to cover the top of the cage to maintain humidity make sure it is not more than half, and use something that is not going to catch on fire!
    --Lighting can be blue daytime and red nighttime bulbs suspended above the cage in a Fluker's mini double dome by a lamp stand (the under cage lamp stands are best).
    --Get medium-small crickets (no larger than space between the frogs eyes) and ditch the mealworms. Crickets can be dusted with Reptocal (Cal/D3) daily-- one day a week use a multi-vitamin instead. Crickets can be kept in a separate keeper with cardboard egg crate, a plastic lid with cottonballs soaked in spring water, and another dish of Fluker's high calcium dry cricket diet and original Cheerios.

    Do all these things BEFORE you invest in a new larger tank. Your frog is looking critical so time is of the essence. Good luck!
    Mom to these fine frogs!
    4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
    2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert


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