Whites Tree Frog Question

[Laylicorn]

I'm going to get a whites tree frog soon. I'm going to have a 15 or 20 gallon tank with 2-3 inches of water (3-4 gallons) on the bottom.
I don't want to change the water every day, so I'm assuming that I'll need a filter. I also heard that moving water increases humidity. I would prefer a small, simple to use, submersible filter. Does anyone have suggestions?

I bought a 10-20 gallon UTH and a 13 watt 5.0 uvb bulb. Will that heat the tank properly? I didn't want to get a heat lamp because it dries out the tank.

[deranged chipmunk]

I am a big fan of the fluval nano filter. But of course, that is just a personal opinion. There are plenty of small, submersible filters that will work just fine. The uvb light is not really necessary and if it is a cfl type (spiral), it isn't going to add much heat. You may get some heat from it's ballast, but not a lot. If you are planning on having that much water, you could use a good, adjustable aquarium heater, just make sure it is away from and protected from the frogs. Under a false bottom would be ideal. Take plenty of time to figure out the settings to get the water and air temps right.


Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

[Laylicorn]

Won't the UTH heat the air and water enough?
I also have a spare 60 watt bulb that I could use. I feel like its too hot. I don't want to dry out the tank..

[deranged chipmunk]

A bulb on top of the tank or a uth on the side will not heat the water to the temps you would need.


Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

[Lija]

That is very good thing you are asking qs and setting everything up before you get a frog!

I very strongly suggest you set up a quarantine tank first, do a proper quarantine for a month with fecal testing and while doing so set up a permanent home. This way you will avoid so many possible problems down the road

adult whites tes are big frogs, they pee and poop a lot, I very highly doubt any small filters would do the job needed.
Why dont you do naturalistic tank, if you want moving water then you can do external stronger filter.

[Laylicorn]

I wasn't going to do a false bottom or any substrate. Just water.
Would a pebble substrate be harder to clean? I don't want a tank that's hard to maintain.
What is the quarantine tank for? I thought that was only for introducing new frogs. What is recal testing? I'm new to frogs (and filters)..

These are my supplies so far:

- 15 or 20 gallon tank
- Screen lid
- 2 to 3 inches of water (dechlorinated)
- Zoo Med Mini Compact Fluorescent 5.0 Bulb 13 watt and silver dome
- 10 gallon Jungle Gym
- Fake Vine
- Fake tree stump thing
- UTH
- Temperature and Humidity Gauge
- Background (not climbable)
- Feeder dubia roaches, mealworms, sometimes crickets

I'm going to take the frog out of the tank to eat. I can't put a bowl anywhere because there isn't any land.
And I'll be getting a water heater and a filter..

Also I was going to get the frog at Petco because that's the only place to get frogs, but I guess I can order one online because I don't want my frog to have health issues. Where do you recommend buying one? Every website I find sells a lot of exotic animals and I would rather find someone who breeds specifically Whites Tree Frogs. I want to see the specific frog that I'm buying.

[deranged chipmunk]

the easiest tanks to maintain are naturalistic tanks. i.e. live plants, substrate, microfauna (cleaning crew). all you need to do is spot clean any waste from the frogs and it will pretty much run itself.

quarantine is indeed for adding new frogs, including the first frog. it's a basic set up. some sort of container (tupperware is fine), paper towel substrate, a water bowl, and something for the frog to climb/hide in. this gives you a bunch of advantages. for one, with just a paper towel substrate, you can see any waste from the frog, as well as it's condition. (solid, runny, whatever) with very little decor, you can always see the frog and can see if it is moving normally, lethargic, ect. it gives you time to get to know your frog and learn it's habits.

recal testing was an autocorrect fail by lija, what she meant to type was FECAL testing. yes, sending poo to someone to test for parasites. it is essential when purchasing a frog from a pet shop, whether it be a chain or a mom and pop store.

removing the frog from the tank to eat, imho, adds unnecessary stress on the frog. stress is a big killer of amphibians.

a note about an all water substrate: the filter and heater MUST be caged/screen in to protect the frog. yes, the frog will go in the water. and yes, it will find both of those items, and if they are unprotected, well, i don't need to say what comes next. also, if you are planning on using a UTH with a water substrate, the UTH needs to go on the side or back of the tank. hot heating pad and cool water do not mix, and bad things tend to happen, such as cracks in the glass.

as far as where to get a frog. online breeders would be best. however, you will not see the specific frog you are purchasing. your best bet for that is to go to a reptile show, and hope someone has CB white's there. if not, then you may be forced to go to Petco. in which case, this is a thread that might interest you:
http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...pet-store.html

and here is a thread on quarantining the frog:
http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html

hope that helps

[Lija]

Yeah, thanks Bill lol
autocorrect loves me!