Environmental control questions

**EMCookjb** · January 21st, 2015

Thank you for the feedback. I am getting a lot of good information from the experts. I will consider taking out the sphagnum moss layer. Is it an absolute must to maintain 90%+ humidity in the vivarium at all times? I read that maintaining that high of a humidity is bad. Thoughts?

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**deranged chipmunk** · January 21st, 2015

Well, I don't know about all that "expert" talk lol
Yes, for darts, a humidity of 90+% is required. Temps in the mid to lower 70's. You should never allow them to go over 80. That's a death knell for darts.

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

**deranged chipmunk** · January 21st, 2015

Provided you have glass (or similar) covering the top of the enclosure, 90% is easily maintained

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

**EMCookjb** · January 21st, 2015

But is maintaining a 90% humidity 100% of the time a good thing?

**deranged chipmunk** · January 21st, 2015

Yup. Can't keep darts any other way.

What has you concerned about the humidity?

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

**EMCookjb** · January 21st, 2015

Just making sure my thoughts and knowledge are on track. It just also seems that humidity would cause issues like rot, fungus, mold, etc. But then I remember that micro-fauna will help deal with that. That would be the next set of research for me. What kind of micro-fauna to incorporate into my living viv. Thank you for the reassurance.

**deranged chipmunk** · January 21st, 2015

That one is easy. Isopods (choose your favorite species) and springtails.

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

**EMCookjb** · January 21st, 2015

Originally Posted by deranged chipmunk

Provided you have glass (or similar) covering the top of the enclosure, 90% is easily maintained

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

I have heard of people putting a bead of silicone around the top of their tank. I presume this is to both help "seal" the viv and to discourage the escape of frogs and critters. Is this recommended? Thank you again for all the advice.

**deranged chipmunk** · January 21st, 2015

I can't honestly answer that. I have never heard of doing that. It's not really necessary. You don't have to make the tank hermetically sealed, you just need to hold humidity in lol it just seems like a bit of paranoia to me. Some people love keeping darts, but freak out of the thought of an escaping fruit fly. I guess they are afraid of them infesting their homes, which by the way, won't happen.

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

**EMCookjb** · January 21st, 2015

Thank you. I appreciate hearing from a veteran on where my true focus should be. I want to ensure that make sound decisions based on sound information. I have read stories of the "horrors" that escaped wingless fruit fries can cause. LOL.

**DigitalPunk** · January 21st, 2015

John you sir are asking all the right questions and I can tell you it is a breath of fresh air for us to see someone so invested in making the tank right the first time. Bill taught me much of what I know about tanks and is a great person and a great tool to use to help guide you in making good choices.

On my 40b vertical tank (it houses 4 Azureus) we use a standard aquarium top on it. No ventilation what so ever. Keeping the humidity around 90% isn't as hard as it seems. It does generate a lot of excess water that will make it into your drainage layer or false bottom. If you are going to siphon excess water out of the tank I would recommend drawing a "max water line" on the outside of the tank with a sharpie. You can do it somewhere that isn't super visible to people but somewhere where you can see it and tell when you need to siphon. Water has thie funny trick where it is low and looks good then it suddenly is touching your substrate and causing you all sorts of issues.

Drilling for drainage just adds another level of auto pilot to the tank. When the water level reaches the bulkhead installed in the tank all the excess water drains off automagically. I have done it both way (drilling and siphoning) and really don't have a preference either way. They each work only as good as you want them too. Remember if you drill for drainage you have to remember to check the bucket the excess water goes into or you will have a whole other water problem on your hands lol.

Unless you plan to do an aquatic section with some plants a pond really is hard to make look pretty. The added work of water changes was just to much for me so I spent a bunch of money and time converting all of my tanks to drainage layer tanks. I may do another False Bottom Paludarium (Paludarium is a vivarium with a water section that can support life) down the road but right now I love just enjoying my tanks and stalking my frogs

Lids - I do not silicone my down. I am not overly concerned about fruit flies escaping. The frogs are very efficient at easting them and the few that do manage to escape either die shortly after or become spider food... and die all the same lol.

lights - Lighting will be the next thing that can make or break a tank. I highly recommend Aquatraders - Guaranteed Best Prices on Aquarium Lightings + Free Shipping!. They have some of the best priced, and best quality LED lights around. You will want lights that are 6500k for good plant growth. You will also want to make sure you have enough light that it can make it the 24" to the substrate as well. The 1watt 3 row LED lights are wicked bright and will do the trick for you.

I could keep going lol. Fruit flies are key.. As well as Springtails. You will want to breed both. It is just plain cheaper to breed them on your own than it is to keep buying more cultures weekly.

If you need help with the feeder aspect let us know. I'm sorry if you knew the stuff I mentioned, but I always error on the side of over sharing than making people dig it out of me

**deranged chipmunk** · January 22nd, 2015

Wait, did I read that correctly? Did Paul call me a tool?? I think Paul called me a tool!! Lol

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

**DigitalPunk** · January 22nd, 2015

LoL I meant that is a flattery sort of..... I was trying to pay you...... All I was saying is that...... Maybe I'm the tool.... lol

**EMCookjb** · January 22nd, 2015

Guys, guys, can't we all just get along. LOL. Couldn't saying that. Its good to see a lot of camaraderie on here. My brain, what is left of it, is still working on a couple of thoughts. First, last night I ordered bunch of stuff from Josh's Frogs including digit thermometer/hydrometer, 6 gallons of ABG, 5 gallons of Magnolia leaves, 4 branches and the MistKing Starter system. I figure there is no such thing has having too much ABG or leaves.

Now comes the painful thinking part. As I was looking at the aquarium daydreaming of frogs jumping around, I noticed the aquarium needs to be cleaned. I almost went to the cabinet and got some windex but stopped. What do the veterans use to clean their aquariums prior to anything being put it? Will I need to clean everything (well not the ABG) prior to putting anything into it and if so how? Thoughts please, as I reach into my frog forum "tool box". Just kidding.

**EMCookjb** · January 22nd, 2015

I just modified my order to include enough Josh's Frog's false bottom for several inches and some sphagnum moss. I talked with a local frogger who works at Petco and the local zoo. She was a great source of information. The stuff should be here by the weekend. I am totally excited.

**DigitalPunk** · January 22nd, 2015

I use a water + bleach mix to clean the tanks. Roughly 2 parts bleach 10 parts water.

**deranged chipmunk** · January 22nd, 2015

It depends on how bad the tank is. I have gone at tanks with CLR and a razor blade. Since glass and silicone aren't porous, you can really use anything. The key is rinse, rinse, rinse, then when you're done rinsing, repeat the rinse cycle again. Then I use bleach, like Paul. But you can also use vinegar/water, or as I call it, the Paul method

(hehe call me a tool, eh? Lol) even lemon juice and water works well.

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

**EMCookjb** · January 23rd, 2015

My materials will be here tomorrow. As I start "building" my home for my soon to be adopted lueks, should I start a new thread?

**EMCookjb** · January 23rd, 2015

When would be the best time to introduce microfauna to viv ... once I lay the substrate or when I put in my plants?

**deranged chipmunk** · January 23rd, 2015

Originally Posted by EMCookjb

My materials will be here tomorrow. As I start "building" my home for my soon to be adopted lueks, should I start a new thread?

I would. That way it's about the tank and it only.

Originally Posted by EMCookjb

When would be the best time to introduce microfauna to viv ... once I lay the substrate or when I put in my plants?

I add after I plant. And sometimes that can take me days. Sometimes it takes me 20 minutes but that's normally when I do it.

Education is the most powerful weapon we can use to change the world ~ Nelson Mandela

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