New White's tree froggie died. Help!!! Quarantine advice needed...

[LilyPad]

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That could have definitely been the issue. Most of us use silicone to put our backgrounds on, I'm unsure about the safety of hour glue but i wouldn't think it would stand up well to the heat or humidity of a frog vivarium.

Can you get a cheap 10 gallon tank with a screen top for quarantine and then a real tank for after? The plastic boxes will not do any better for them. Tree frogs need ventilation.

There is a strong possibility that the frog was already ill coming from from Petco, but lots of other things going on also.

Water needs to be treated, even well water that doesn't have chlorine. Most of us use seachem prime. Native Moses will probably not survive because they need a dormant period and it's hard to sterilize them ensuring safety.

Also, please read this very thoroughly - Frog Forum - White's Tree Frog Care - Litoria caerulea

[teslas intern]

Thank you so much guys! I'm happy to say I still have two frogs this morning, and I'll make sure to pick up two cheap glass tanks today so I can heat them properly. I gather then, other than heat my quarantine setup is Ok, now I guess I need to find a herp vet to do a fecal test. How much does that usually cost? Also I read the care sheet it mentioned something about red leg? One thing I noticed was a dark purplish hue of the frogs (alive and dead) back legs, I'll post a photo... I hope it is treatable... Or I should say I hope it is nothing... Thanks again guys.

[elly]

Fecal tests for me have run about $29.00. Yeah, that's a lot for more than one frog, but the purplish hue you mentioned sounds worrying. I've heard healthy frogs bellies and legs look pinkish sometimes but they really shouldn't be dark purple/red. A picture would really help with the diagnosis, being able to tell if the color is normal or not. Once more, I'm not an expert, but I'd move quickly and call the vet ahead of time to make sure they can test for/treat cytrid fungus. Especially if the color looks blotchy or bruise-like in any way.

[teslas intern]

Ok guys, here are photos of my remaining froggies, both put up quite a struggle to get these, so I'm taking that as a good sign...





The dead one looked much worse, the pelvic area appeared bruised actually. I don't know how else to describe it...

[Mentat]

Sorry for your dead frog ; hard to pin it since there are a few problems. Get rid off all fertilized peat moss (and any decor that can't be sterilized) and scrub clean tank with 10% bleach soaked sponge or rag. Rinse well and let air dry before re-use. Get unprinted paper towels and use as substrate (around 4 ply thick and changed at least every other day). Get damp with dechlorinated water (even from well) using either Seachem Prime or ExoTerra Aquatize. Since frogs were in contact previously; you can quarantine together. All wood branch items going into tank should be baked for 1 hour at 200F and let to cool in oven overnight. Plastic items can be cleaned same as described for tank. Use silk plants to provide cover and help reduce stress. Cover all side but front with any paper; static cling aquarium background works well. For the time being leave cork out; too many crevices that can harbor pathogens.

Get fecal test done either at herp veterinary (Herp Vet Connection ) or a lab (Repti-Labs - Fecal Float Testing). If pathogens detected get meds from veterinary and complete all treatment while frogs are still in quarantine. Once clear with a final fecal test you can redo your enclosure and start all over again. Only recommended substrates are shredded coco or coco fiber mats. You can reuse cork if you remove glue and bake it; same process as with wood. Never use a plant fertilizer or any soil with it. If using live plants can use ABG type soil and lightly fertilize with aquarium plant fertilizers from Seachem. Good luck !

[irThumper]

Got some excellent advice there to start you off, Scott

Via Mentat: If using live plants can use ABG type soil and lightly fertilize with aquarium plant fertilizers from Seachem.

Carlos, what exactly does "ABG" stand for? I've been wanting to find/make a good frog safe soil for the plants and for a burrowing dish. I picked up some Black Gold Organic Mix (all natural) but it turned out to have a lot of perlite/vermiculite in it, bleh. I need something for plants like Pothos, Dracaena and Diffenbachia and then something more sandy/cactus mix like for the Sansevierias. Also, what can be safely used for drainage for plants WITHIN the mix (I use hydroballs in the bottom of the pots) other than perlite and vermiculite, that won't harm frogs...?

[LilyPad]

Got some excellent advice there to start you off, Scott



Carlos, what exactly does "ABG" stand for? I've been wanting to find/make a good frog safe soil for the plants and for a burrowing dish. I picked up some Black Gold Organic Mix (all natural) but it turned out to have a lot of perlite/vermiculite in it, bleh. I need something for plants like Pothos, Dracaena and Diffenbachia and then something more sandy/cactus mix like for the Sansevierias. Also, what can be safely used for drainage for plants WITHIN the mix (I use hydroballs in the bottom of the pots) other than perlite and vermiculite, that won't harm frogs...?

ABG - ABG, Atlanta Botanical Gardens Mix | Reptile Substrate | Josh's Frogs

A great thread regarding substrate - http://www.frogforum.net/plants-plan...lk-dirt-y.html

If the OP is not planting though, only coco fiber is needed once the frogs are done with QT.

[elly]

Sorry I can't tell you if the color in those pics is normal or not. Maybe someone else can. But you should still get your frogs tested.