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  1. #1
    100+ Post Member irThumper's Avatar
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog STILL hurting himself

    I'm a new WTF owner myself, my main experience is with Pacific Chrous/Tree Frogs, but I'd try a bigger tank with live plants, and maybe get him a friend... these guys definitely seem to enjoy company. Can't put a friend in with him right now, of course, but maybe you could put your guy in the bigger tank and quarantine the new frog in the smaller tank...? With everything else seeming right it just sounds to me like he's frustrated...

    Also, I think WTF's don't need "quite" the amount of heat people tend to give them... are the lights on 12 hrs off 12 hrs? Maybe he's getting too much or too little "daylight" or "night time".

    I hope he gets better!
    Mom to these fine frogs!
    4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
    2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert


  2. #2
    Kmoonleaf
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog STILL hurting himself

    I'm afraid I can't get a new tank, i saved for months and spent all my free money just to get the tank I have D:
    I have been considering getting him a friend, but i was going to wait until this issue dies down to make sure he's comfortable before I try to make a big change to his environment. And, my tank is 18x18x24 (32 gallons) so I wasn't sure if that's big enough for two frogs, I know 20 gallons is the minimum for just one frog. The other tank I have is only 12 gallons, so I don't know if a new frog would like staying in there for the whole 30 day quarantine period.
    Yes, the uvb light is on 12hrs and off 12hrs, and the heat lamp is on 24/7.

    If I were to get a few live plants, what plant types are good? which types should I avoid? what extra care would a live plant require? How can I make sure a live plant won't introduce foreign organisms/parasites to the tank?

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    100+ Post Member elly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog STILL hurting himself

    There's good stuff in the Terrarium section on the forum. As far as plant types go, many tropical houseplants that can tolerate damp work. Lucky bamboo, pothos, snake plant are some examples. I have mine in water right now and I plan to give them a quick dip in a bleach water solution. (inexpensive is good, in case they die of that or from being sat on by frogs.)

  4. #4
    Kmoonleaf
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog STILL hurting himself

    here - some pictures of the tank Name:  tumblr_ncvycoX6E11qknsc9o1_500.jpg
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    And a few more of the frog
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  5. #5
    100+ Post Member irThumper's Avatar
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog STILL hurting himself

    I'd give him a bigger water dish, place a flat rock or something else in the bottom (I use a tera cotta pot saucer upside down) and get him a "Pineapple" variety Dracaena. One of our Pacific tree frogs, and now our new Whites Tree Frog's, love snuggling down between the leaves to nap. I think the live plants help make them feel more secure & less frustrated and are kinder to their skin.

    Name:  DSC00390--2.jpg
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Size:  154.8 KB<< Pacific tree frog in African violet
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    (Will have to get pics of the new Whites Tree Frog girls in their dracaena)
    Mom to these fine frogs!
    4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
    2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert


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  7. #6
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog STILL hurting himself

    Hmm I have not kept White tree frogs, but I do have some Red Eyes and I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night so let me toss a few ideas at you and see what you think.


    Heating a tank with a heat bulb also has the added benefit of drying the air out in the tank super fast. I would venture a guess and say the hydrometer is way off on it's readings. With a Heat bulb on 24/7 there is almost no way for it to be on average 60% without the substrate being completely soaked with water and swamped out. I am going to link an item below to use in place of the heat bulb.


    Ceramic Heat Emitter - If your current dome has a porcelain socket than this will work in your existing dome. He it is a plastic or metal socket you will want to replace the dome. These babies are bit more money than bulbs but last a heck of a lot longer. They will heat the tank 24/7 and produce no light. You will want to either use a thermostat to help control the output temp of find a dome with a dimmer switch on it to help regulate the heat. These things also do not dry out the air so all that precious humidity will stick around for a while.

    That is the one thing that jumps out at me right away with your setup is the heating lamp. I tried those, it was a nightmare, and so I switched to the CHE and love them!
    1.1.0 - Oophaga Pumilio 'Blue Jeans' (2014 Nicaragua Import)
    1.1.0 - Oophaga Pumilio 'Chirique Grande' F1
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  8. #7
    100+ Post Member irThumper's Avatar
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    Default Re: Whites tree frog STILL hurting himself

    How hot do those get though...? I'm second guessing myself on my own frogs' temps at night too, though I still think 73 at night is not too low I just don't know if they're used to it yet, and I don't really want it getting lower than 72 at the most. I did read somewhere on here that someones WTFs got to 68 or 69 at night and seemed to be perfectly fine, but I don't even let my African violets get that low at night and the frogs will wind up being in the same room as them.
    Mom to these fine frogs!
    4.4.0 White's tree frogs (Litoria caerulea): Sir Honey Lime, Bok & Choi, Martha, Shirley, Leapin' Loo and Ping & Pong; 0.2.1 Amazon Milk Frogs (Trachycephalus resinifictrix): Otto & Echo and Pip-Squeak aka Tiny
    2.0.0 South American Bird Poo Frogs (Hyla marmorata): Ribbit & Rupert


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