Cane Toad has stopped feeding, please help!

[Cane Toad Problems]

Thank goodness I came across this forum, I've been losing my mind over this!

I have had my cane toad since April this year (5 months) and she has always been an astonishing eater.. recently demolishing 2 boxes of locusts a week! We have tried feeding her other insects, but she only accepts locusts and doesn't even show interest in any other insects we put into her tank. She is fed in her tank by dropping about 5 locusts inside, allowing her to 'hunt' them overnight. She had some problems with a back leg some time ago and we thought that by hunting her prey throughout the tank she would build up some strength in it! (this worked beautifully)

My problem. I have recently moved back into my house at university after an extended period of time at home. Toad (aka. Murphy) has never had problems eating after being moved or even after changing into a new tank of any size. She even ate instantly after the long trip home form Germany (a 30 hour coach trip!) We were told she might not eat for a week.. but she was happy enough to eat as many locusts as she could open her mouth and jump at. After moving into her new tank, a 1ft by 2ft faunarium.. she has completely lost interest in food. The local pet store told me that this could be due to the stress of moving, but she moves around between homes constantly and this has never been an issue. At one point she looked very interested in the locusts and went for one.. but missed, and has since given up. She used to be housed on turf but I switched to orchid bark upon moving. At the moment she has a simple hide and a water bowl, which is almost too small for her.. but everytime I try to 'upgrade it' she sits next to the glass and slaps her hands on it until I give it back (really) It has been two weeks now, I'm stressed as heck over this. She's definately not shedding.

I saw this on another one of the help posts, easier than reading my wall of text;
1-size of enclosure; 1ft by 2ft
2-# on inhabitants - Just her
3-humidity - Sprayed down everyday
4-temp - No heat mat at present, normally have one but left it at home.. should be getting it back soon
5-water - Left overnight before using?
6-materials used for substrate - Normally turf or moss, currently orchid bark
7-enclosure set up - Just a hide and water bowl
8-main food source - Locusts
9-vitamins and calcium - Calcium on most meals
10-lighting - As is in my room, she's near a window.
11-what is, specifically, being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure - Normally a heat mat
12-when is the last time he ate - Two weeks ago
13-have you found poop lately - She has been (excreting?) into her water bowl fine
14-a pic would be great - http://imgur.com/qd4OhVT I took this a while ago, she's normally a great golden colour! (at the moment she's dark brown)
15- how old is the frog - No idea, at least 6 months old
16-how long have you owned him - 5 months
17- is the frog wild caught or captive bred - Not sure, most likely captive bred
18- frog food- Locusts, constant supply whenever she finishes them off
19- about how often the frog is handled - recently, frequently during moving. Normally whenever we clean out (once her per week or two)
20-is the enclosure is kept in a high or low traffic area - High traffic. Has always been kept in a bedroom.


Sorry this was such a long post, I wanted to get all the information in that could possibly help! Thank you so much.

[Bombina Bob]

Welcome to FF! here's our care sheet on Bufo toads including the cane toad Frog Forum - Toad Basics - Keeping ground-dwelling Toads. A care sheet for Bufo, Anaxyrus, Spea, Scaphiopus, Ollotis, Alytes, Pelobates

First of all, Get a thermometer, its vital to know the temperature within your toad's enclosure, and a hygrometer for humidity.
Usually leaving out water overnight wont be enough to remove chloramines, Get a water conditioner to make the water safe.

BIG red flag is raised when you mention orchid bark as substrate, If she ingests any of that, she could get it stuck in her gut and get impacted. Replace the orchid bark with cocoanut fiber and give her a lukewarm bath with dechlorinated water, one or two drops of honey should be added to the water when bathing her, leave her in for ten minutes daily. Impaction is the most common problem with many frog species. Turf and moss should never be used as well. Although aesthetically pleasing, its risking impaction as well. Turf is designed for reptiles and is abrasive to the toad's skin.

Cane toads shouldn't be handled regularly because of the bufotoxins released when handled and have very delicate skin.

[Cane Toad Problems]

Welcome to FF! here's our care sheet on Bufo toads including the cane toad Frog Forum - Toad Basics - Keeping ground-dwelling Toads. A care sheet for Bufo, Anaxyrus, Spea, Scaphiopus, Ollotis, Alytes, Pelobates

First of all, Get a thermometer, its vital to know the temperature within your toad's enclosure, and a hygrometer for humidity.
Usually leaving out water overnight wont be enough to remove chloramines, Get a water conditioner to make the water safe.

BIG red flag is raised when you mention orchid bark as substrate, If she ingests any of that, she could get it stuck in her gut and get impacted. Replace the orchid bark with cocoanut fiber and give her a lukewarm bath with dechlorinated water, one or two drops of honey should be added to the water when bathing her, leave her in for ten minutes daily. Impaction is the most common problem with many frog species. Turf and moss should never be used as well. Although aesthetically pleasing, its risking impaction as well. Turf is designed for reptiles and is abrasive to the toad's skin.

Cane toads shouldn't be handled regularly because of the bufotoxins released when handled and have very delicate skin.

Hello!

Thank you so much for replying, the forums were really messed up that day but I was able to read your message from my notifications! I changed her over to coconut fibre and declorinated water that day and left her a whole day with no locusts in her tank in the dark. She then ate a singular locust after I kept putting it in front of her, after this I left a few in her tank and left her overnight.. but to no avail even now with eating any more. I gave her a honey bath that day but have left her since. I will give her another tomorrow. Any ideas on why she still isn't eating? I can get a thermometer and a hydrometer very soon, is there a specific temperature and humidity she should be?

Again, thanks so much!

[Bombina Bob]

There could be many reasons why your toad isn't eating. If the toad is overstressed, it will stop eating. To avoid
stressing your animal, Keep handling to a minimum and provide the temperatures that are ideal for cane toads.
70-82F is ideal with a humidity of 40-60%. She could possibly be impacted as well. To treat this, continue the
honey baths and be sure that she is still eating. Keep up the good work

[Mentat]

Hello and welcome to FF! Ryan gave you good advice, just want to add couple ideas. Have you tried feeding night crawlers? They are excellent nourishment. What do you feed the locust to gut load them before feeding toad? Can you get reptile multi-vitamins and use once a week on a day you do not use CA?

If water you used during last few months had chloramines (do not gas off from water like chlorine); your toad might be showing chronic issues due to chloramine toxicity to frogs. Only use dechlorinated tap for toads water dish. Good luck !

[Cane Toad Problems]

Thank you again!

I have been giving her daily baths for the last week, I think if she was impacted by now she would be doing much worse. When I take her out for her baths she is quite active in trying to jump away! The problem is probably the heating issues, my heat pads are far away at the moment.. but I shall try to get my hands on a temporary one tomorrow to see what happens. There is still no interest in the locusts.. but I shall try these night crawlers! We once tried feeding her crickets and got a similar response as this, so fingers crossed! I have been giving the locusts one of those jelly pots you by in the store to keep them going this long so far.. Just to add, I have been dechlorinating her water daily now. But because of the baths she hasn't been getting in her water bowl.

Either way, I'll keep posting up on here until I get her feeding again. Just incase someone ends up with a similar problem and comes across this posting. Thanks everyone again for your help. She hasn't eaten in over three weeks now, I'm really hoping it's a temperature problem.