Getting a Red-Eyed Leaf Frog - Questions!

[MantidBro]

alright so ive read numerous caresheets. Ive got a big cage that had housed my bearded dragon. He died the other day, horribly so. We had him 8 years. I want a new pet, not a replacement exactly, but someone to take up that space. So hes got a big cage prepared. Ive got tons of substrate, coconut fiber. So ill fill it up 3-5 inches with that. Now i just need to buy some plants, ill get fake ones, and a temperature/humidity tracker. Ive got calcium/vitamin D3. And i have feeders, always do, for my mantids. Flies, crickets. Ive got a spray bottle. I got a water bowl. I read UV lamps arent neccessary but also arent a hinderance, ive got one which id like to use, just so i can see the little fella. Ive got most of the info i need from caresheets. My only question that i couldnt find the answer to is, how much should they eat at a time, and how often should they be fed? Im not sure how old the one i get will be, so id like an answer for all stages. Thank you!

[ColleenT]

Congrats and good luck. i never had them, so i'll let the experts answer you.

[Heatheranne]

http://www.frogforum.net/content/red...allidryas-122/

Here is our caresheet, if you haven't yet seen it.

[DigitalPunk]

Hey MantidBro,

First I am sorry for the loss of your pet. That is never easy. 2ndly A few things to keep in mind about Retf before you buy some.


They are nocturnal. They will sleep all day and will only get up at night once it is 100% dark. They do not appreciate being spied on. They are a very cool frog, but wanted yo to have that little bit of basics up front.


As for the soil you are using.

If you are going the route of fake plants than there is no need to put any soil down of any kind. They will literally spend as little time as possible on the substrate. They prefer and require lots of vertical space and banches or vines to climb on. You will want broad leafed plants for them to hide in and sleep on.

With no soil substrate all you need is to put a layer of wet unprinted paper towels down. These will need to be changed ever 1 to 2 days. They will need fresh drinking water everyday. Any water for misting or to put in the water bowl needs to be de-chlorinated tap water.

Reds are not prone to over eating. The best method is to put a glass pyrex bowl in the tank with the crickets in there. It may take them a day or 2 to figure out how to get at the crickets, but this will help keep crickets from climbing around the tank and biting your frogs. It will also help keep the tank clear of dead feeder insects.

Tank - what are the dimensions of your tank?

[MantidBro]

Hey MantidBro,

First I am sorry for the loss of your pet. That is never easy. 2ndly A few things to keep in mind about Retf before you buy some.


They are nocturnal. They will sleep all day and will only get up at night once it is 100% dark. They do not appreciate being spied on. They are a very cool frog, but wanted yo to have that little bit of basics up front.


As for the soil you are using.

If you are going the route of fake plants than there is no need to put any soil down of any kind. They will literally spend as little time as possible on the substrate. They prefer and require lots of vertical space and banches or vines to climb on. You will want broad leafed plants for them to hide in and sleep on.

With no soil substrate all you need is to put a layer of wet unprinted paper towels down. These will need to be changed ever 1 to 2 days. They will need fresh drinking water everyday. Any water for misting or to put in the water bowl needs to be de-chlorinated tap water.

Reds are not prone to over eating. The best method is to put a glass pyrex bowl in the tank with the crickets in there. It may take them a day or 2 to figure out how to get at the crickets, but this will help keep crickets from climbing around the tank and biting your frogs. It will also help keep the tank clear of dead feeder insects.

Tank - what are the dimensions of your tank?

Thank you, it sucks to have lost him.

I am aware that they are a difficult species but i think he will be just fine as long as i go by the rules. Im going to only get one and see how it goes.

I do know they are nocturnal, my american gray tree frog is as well. Tends to settle into a spot and hide til night time comes around. Then hes hyper. and hungry, lol. I read that uv lights are neither helpful nor a hindrance and are neccessary for live plants so i will use that but of course go completely dark for bed time. Ive got the cage in the darkest corner of my room.

I want to use some substrate, first for humidity reasons, that should help to get it where i want it. And second because if the frog jumps, and lands, i dont want it to be against a hard surface. And it feels more natural for an animal of this earth to have some of... Well, exactly that, earth.

Yes they are tree frogs after all, and ive seen documentaries on them, and nope, never seen one on the ground lol. Always on a leaf or branch.
Im going to make sure the set up is perfect before i get the actial frog. Ill be taking photos and showing everyone and getting opinions. I plan on getting the biggest, leafiest plant possible. I want (a) fake one(s) though. Ive already got a water bowl. I will buy a big bark piece too. I dont want to risk getting one from outside, even when boiled/baked, it doesnt always work.

The fresh water daily, dechlorinated water, same as my gray tree frog. And ive got down the clear glass/feeder method, works like a charm.

Ill give you a photo of the tank



2 feet tall, 3 feet long, 1 foot wide

[MantidBro]

Frog Forum - Red-Eyed Leaf Frog/Red Eyed Tree Frog Care - Agalychnis callidryas

Here is our caresheet, if you haven't yet seen it.

I did read it already i have most of it memorized

[Heatheranne]

Reds are a bit of a challenge for beginners, but with a bit of teaching, they're a beautiful species to own.

RETF's need a tall home of at least 24". You should have at least 10 gallons of space per frog, starting at a 20 gallon tank or bigger for the first frog.

They should start off in a quarantine tank, for at least 30 days. This is to monitor their health and eating. Please ask if you need help setting up a quarantine tank.

Humidity: 70-80%

Temp:
Day time: 76-78'F
Night time: 74-76'F

Day/night light schedule of 12 hrs/12hrs. No special lighting is needed.

Live plants will require full spectrum lighting of 6500K-6700K.

There are proper techniques for decontaminating plants, wood, and decorating items for the tank, especially if used in a previous animal-filled tank.

Water:

Water for water bowl and (later) substrates should be treated with a dechlorinating solution which also neutralizes heavy metals. Water bowl water should be no deeper than their chins when sitting. The bowl should be rinsed in hot water daily, allowed to cool, and then new dechlorinated water be filled daily.

Misting/spraying to increase humidity:

For misting the tank, use a fine mist spray bottle or a misting system. For misting you can use distilled water. Do not use distilled water for substrates or the water (soaking) bowl. Distilled water will not leave water spots on the glass, but will pull vital electrolytes through the frogs skin if they soak in it.

Safe substrates:

While in quarantine, only use non-printed paper towels. Change every 1-2 days. Remove any visible waste daily.

Once you know your frog is healthy and is eating well and pooping regularly and of normal consistency, and after a minimal of the 30 day minimum quarantine period, you may use vivarium substrates.

There are only 3 safe substrates to use:

ABG mix with large leaf litter over top, coconut fiber (not husk), or non-fertilized plantation soil. No fertilizers should be used.

Absolutely no small rocks or pebbles, and no loose moss. Small loose items can be accidentally eaten or ingested while they hunt. These items can and will cause intestinal blockages and very often lead to death.

When using ABG mix, plantation soil, or coconut fiber, it is wise to feed over a safe area in which there is a smooth flat surface.

Many of us use the bowl feeding method.

Remember to use only dechlorinated/treated water to moisten substrates.

Ponds:

Ponds and waterfalls should only be used by experienced amphibian keepers. Give it some time before you consider such. Water has to be cycled and then a good filtration system and regular water change schedule must be followed for safe, clean water.

Food:

All food should be no larger than the distance between the frogs eyes. Larger prey may cause difficulty swallowing and can also cause intestinal impaction and even rectal prolapse. Smaller is better.

Insects should be gut-loaded (fed nutritious fruits, veggies, grains) before feeding them to the frog(s). Crickets, which are the most common staple food, are not very nutritious without being gut-loaded.

Safe foods for insects: (well-rinsed in dechlorinated water)
carrots, romaine lettuce, zucchini, sliced oranges, apples, bananas, potatoes, Cheerios, plain oatmeal.

Never ever feed your insects tomatoes or tomato leaves, they are toxic to frogs. Cabbage has also been mentioned as a questionably unsafe food for them, so I avoid it.

Crickets can drink the fruit juices or you can use gel water. Crickets are not the brightest insects and will drown in any water cup.

Safe insects for retfs:

Babies: Hydei fruit flies and pinhead crickets from a clean, captive-bred source.

Adults: crickets, earthworm or night crawler pieces (cut to proper size), freshly molted small dubia roaches from a clean, captive-bred source).

Avoid mealworms. The chitin in their segments is not digestible and can cause impaction.

They can have a rare small waxworm or waxworm moth treat.

Feed just before you turn their lights out for bedtime. They will learn the schedule if you keep it consistent. Remember, RETF's are nocturnal and they will wake at night and sleep during the day.

Amphibian Supplements: (Required)

All captive frogs need supplements to be healthy, in the proper amts. Lack of proper nutrients can cause health issues and especially MBD from lack of calcium with vitamin D3. We see this all too often.

Your supplements should be up to date (not expired), and once opened, replaced every 3 months.

Calcium with vitamin D3:

Insects should be lightly dusted with calcium/vitamin D3 every other day. Be sure it has the vitamin D3 for proper absorption.

Multivitamin:

Insects should be lightly dusted one day a week but not on the same day as the calcium/vita D3, for proper absorption. Repashy plus calcium is a great choice.

Apply your supplement just before feeding. You'd be surprised at how well these little critters can clean it off quickly.

Handling:

Handling is never recommended unless absolutely necessary. It causes the frog(s) stress, which can lead to opportunistic infections.

For the times you must handle your frog(s), you must wash your hands well and rinse thoroughly. Frogs are like little sponges and we can easily make them sick with our own germs. They can also be easily burned by any soaps or hand sanitizers. Be sure to rinse well. It is recommended that you rinse again using dechlorinated water as well.

Many of us use powder-free medical gloves. Dispose of the pair after use and get new for the next time.

Minimizing stress:

Because we are big scary predators to our frogs until they get to know us as "the feeders", we must try to keep things calm and quiet around them. Place their home in a nice quiet, low-traffic, calm location. Cover the back and 2 sides of their tank so they feel safe and secure. Try to minimize "staring" into the tank, even though we just love to watch them. Once they are more comfortable, they will relax and hop around freely .

I'm sure I have forgot a few tips, so please feel free to add in any great advice!

Finally, be sure to read bunches before you purchase your frog(s). Know this is the species for you. Know who you are buying from. It is best to buy from well-known, respectable breeders known for good, healthy frogs .

And always have a vet available that you know can care for frogs and provide the right medicines if they get sick.

Red-eyed tree frogs are beautiful and one of my favorite species . If you're ready for them, you'll love them .

[jarteta97]

Sheesh Heather, you basically typed out a whole caresheet But all that information is very crucial for tanking care of this species of frog, so nice job. Listen to Heather, Alexander!

[DigitalPunk]

Heather you win this round.. I will see you in the next help thread for a rematch!

[MantidBro]

Sheesh Heather, you basically typed out a whole caresheet But all that information is very crucial for tanking care of this species of frog, so nice job. Listen to Heather, Alexander!

Ive got it all saved! copied and pasted to my writer program lol.

[MantidBro]

Reds are a bit of a challenge for beginners, but with a bit of teaching, they're a beautiful species to own.

RETF's need a tall home of at least 24". You should have at least 10 gallons of space per frog, starting at a 20 gallon tank or bigger for the first frog.

They should start off in a quarantine tank, for at least 30 days. This is to monitor their health and eating. Please ask if you need help setting up a quarantine tank.

Humidity: 70-80%

Temp:
Day time: 76-78'F
Night time: 74-76'F

Day/night light schedule of 12 hrs/12hrs. No special lighting is needed.

Live plants will require full spectrum lighting of 6500K-6700K.

There are proper techniques for decontaminating plants, wood, and decorating items for the tank, especially if used in a previous animal-filled tank.

Water:

Water for water bowl and (later) substrates should be treated with a dechlorinating solution which also neutralizes heavy metals. Water bowl water should be no deeper than their chins when sitting. The bowl should be rinsed in hot water daily, allowed to cool, and then new dechlorinated water be filled daily.

Misting/spraying to increase humidity:

For misting the tank, use a fine mist spray bottle or a misting system. For misting you can use distilled water. Do not use distilled water for substrates or the water (soaking) bowl. Distilled water will not leave water spots on the glass, but will pull vital electrolytes through the frogs skin if they soak in it.

Safe substrates:

While in quarantine, only use non-printed paper towels. Change every 1-2 days. Remove any visible waste daily.

Once you know your frog is healthy and is eating well and pooping regularly and of normal consistency, and after a minimal of the 30 day minimum quarantine period, you may use vivarium substrates.

There are only 3 safe substrates to use:

ABG mix with large leaf litter over top, coconut fiber (not husk), or non-fertilized plantation soil. No fertilizers should be used.

Absolutely no small rocks or pebbles, and no loose moss. Small loose items can be accidentally eaten or ingested while they hunt. These items can and will cause intestinal blockages and very often lead to death.

When using ABG mix, plantation soil, or coconut fiber, it is wise to feed over a safe area in which there is a smooth flat surface.

Many of us use the bowl feeding method.

Remember to use only dechlorinated/treated water to moisten substrates.

Ponds:

Ponds and waterfalls should only be used by experienced amphibian keepers. Give it some time before you consider such. Water has to be cycled and then a good filtration system and regular water change schedule must be followed for safe, clean water.

Food:

All food should be no larger than the distance between the frogs eyes. Larger prey may cause difficulty swallowing and can also cause intestinal impaction and even rectal prolapse. Smaller is better.

Insects should be gut-loaded (fed nutritious fruits, veggies, grains) before feeding them to the frog(s). Crickets, which are the most common staple food, are not very nutritious without being gut-loaded.

Safe foods for insects: (well-rinsed in dechlorinated water)
carrots, romaine lettuce, zucchini, sliced oranges, apples, bananas, potatoes, Cheerios, plain oatmeal.

Never ever feed your insects tomatoes or tomato leaves, they are toxic to frogs. Cabbage has also been mentioned as a questionably unsafe food for them, so I avoid it.

Crickets can drink the fruit juices or you can use gel water. Crickets are not the brightest insects and will drown in any water cup.

Safe insects for retfs:

Babies: Hydei fruit flies and pinhead crickets from a clean, captive-bred source.

Adults: crickets, earthworm or night crawler pieces (cut to proper size), freshly molted small dubia roaches from a clean, captive-bred source).

Avoid mealworms. The chitin in their segments is not digestible and can cause impaction.

They can have a rare small waxworm or waxworm moth treat.

Feed just before you turn their lights out for bedtime. They will learn the schedule if you keep it consistent. Remember, RETF's are nocturnal and they will wake at night and sleep during the day.

Amphibian Supplements: (Required)

All captive frogs need supplements to be healthy, in the proper amts. Lack of proper nutrients can cause health issues and especially MBD from lack of calcium with vitamin D3. We see this all too often.

Your supplements should be up to date (not expired), and once opened, replaced every 3 months.

Calcium with vitamin D3:

Insects should be lightly dusted with calcium/vitamin D3 every other day. Be sure it has the vitamin D3 for proper absorption.

Multivitamin:

Insects should be lightly dusted one day a week but not on the same day as the calcium/vita D3, for proper absorption. Repashy plus calcium is a great choice.

Apply your supplement just before feeding. You'd be surprised at how well these little critters can clean it off quickly.

Handling:

Handling is never recommended unless absolutely necessary. It causes the frog(s) stress, which can lead to opportunistic infections.

For the times you must handle your frog(s), you must wash your hands well and rinse thoroughly. Frogs are like little sponges and we can easily make them sick with our own germs. They can also be easily burned by any soaps or hand sanitizers. Be sure to rinse well. It is recommended that you rinse again using dechlorinated water as well.

Many of us use powder-free medical gloves. Dispose of the pair after use and get new for the next time.

Minimizing stress:

Because we are big scary predators to our frogs until they get to know us as "the feeders", we must try to keep things calm and quiet around them. Place their home in a nice quiet, low-traffic, calm location. Cover the back and 2 sides of their tank so they feel safe and secure. Try to minimize "staring" into the tank, even though we just love to watch them. Once they are more comfortable, they will relax and hop around freely .

I'm sure I have forgot a few tips, so please feel free to add in any great advice!

Finally, be sure to read bunches before you purchase your frog(s). Know this is the species for you. Know who you are buying from. It is best to buy from well-known, respectable breeders known for good, healthy frogs .

And always have a vet available that you know can care for frogs and provide the right medicines if they get sick.

Red-eyed tree frogs are beautiful and one of my favorite species . If you're ready for them, you'll love them .

Wow, thank you! this is the most detailed caresheet ive seen yet. Its my bible. Ill have it memorized before i get the little guy, or gal. Very helpful. How often should i feed adults, every day? Should i let them eat until theyve decided to stop? they are not over eaters apparently?

[Heatheranne]

Why, thank you . It's written from the old noggin'.

[MantidBro]

Why, thank you . It's written from the old noggin'.

Youre very familiar with this species obviously! lol. Youll be the one i come to. Well if you dont mind.

So far ive got coconut fiber, three sides of the tank covered (2 feet tall, 3 feet long, 1 foot wide), ive got a water bowl, calcium/vitamin D3, feeders, spray bottle. Just remembered i have fake wood too from my bearded dragon... No, know what, i dont think ill use it though, its got holes in it, looks like a frog could easily get in there. Wouldnt want him to get stuck. I need to get a temperature/humidity tracker, and a big fake plant, or two, and a hole-less piece of wood or two. Well thats for after the quarantining anyway. I guess ill have to use paper towel at first after all. If the frog jumps and lands, is it possible that he may be injured? if there is no substrate to cushion him?

Ive got the cage in the darkest corner of my room. So 12 hours with the light, 12 hours of dark, feed him before bed, got ya. Im totally ready mentally, just need to get the cage set up for the quarantine period. It will be hard not to stare at him but i wont lol.id be scared of a human too, we are totally weird giants.

[flybyferns]

Hi,
I see Heath has written you ' a book'. We are very fortunate to have her here at Frog Forum.

Paper towel is perfect for the QT period. It's easy to remove/clean when the frogs are sleeping.
It's probably best to change when soiled and/or at least every other day.
It should be dampened -well- with de-chlorinated water and laid flat as possible on the bottom of the tank.
Its easy to spot any feeders crawlingarount the following morning.

QT: http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html

Speaking of feeders; small crickets are needed for juvenile red eye tree frogs.
Feed them daily ( I feed smalls to my adults as well )
Consider bowl feeding. They will take amazing well to this method of feeding.
In the beginning you might let 2 or 3 cricks roam free...to give the frogs a chance to find the bowl.
I have pasted a link to a great thread ( below) about bowl feeding.
Many different containers can be used. I prefer clear glass as they can see the feeder through the glass.
I use a clear glass pyrex type bowl about 6" in diameter and 4 inches high.
This method keeps the crickets and the supplements contained, provides you away to keep track of how much they ate, and makes for easy cleaning. Remove all uneaten crickets the following morning -----> return them to the cricket bin to feed.
It is very important to take good care of the crickets so they will help to keep your frogs healthy.

Feeder Bowl:
http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...eder-bowl.html
A Healthy Cricket Bin:
http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...icket-bin.html

When they arrive.
The VERY, VERY most important thing to do for you frogs is to be sure they are re-hydrated !!!!!!!
Keep the paper towel very wet the first 72 hours and use the water dish ( water should not be above the frog's chin)
A ceramic saucer is great. The kind used for plants. They are available at Home Depot.

Keep us posted....and of course photos are .....well..... mandatory

[MantidBro]

Hi,
I see Heath has written you ' a book'. We are very fortunate to have her here at Frog Forum.

Paper towel is perfect for the QT period. It's easy to remove/clean when the frogs are sleeping.
It's probably best to change when soiled and/or at least every other day.
It should be dampened -well- with de-chlorinated water and laid flat as possible on the bottom of the tank.
Its easy to spot any feeders crawlingarount the following morning.

QT: http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html

Speaking of feeders; small crickets are needed for juvenile red eye tree frogs.
Feed them daily ( I feed smalls to my adults as well )
Consider bowl feeding. They will take amazing well to this method of feeding.
In the beginning you might let 2 or 3 cricks roam free...to give the frogs a chance to find the bowl.
I have pasted a link to a great thread ( below) about bowl feeding.
Many different containers can be used. I prefer clear glass as they can see the feeder through the glass.
I use a clear glass pyrex type bowl about 6" in diameter and 4 inches high.
This method keeps the crickets and the supplements contained, provides you away to keep track of how much they ate, and makes for easy cleaning. Remove all uneaten crickets the following morning -----> return them to the cricket bin to feed.
It is very important to take good care of the crickets so they will help to keep your frogs healthy.

Feeder Bowl:
http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...eder-bowl.html
A Healthy Cricket Bin:
http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...icket-bin.html

When they arrive.
The VERY, VERY most important thing to do for you frogs is to be sure they are re-hydrated !!!!!!!
Keep the paper towel very wet the first 72 hours and use the water dish ( water should not be above the frog's chin)
A ceramic saucer is great. The kind used for plants. They are available at Home Depot.

Keep us posted....and of course photos are .....well..... mandatory

Yeah she gave a lot of good, detailed info!

I will do bowl feeding, i do it for my gray tree frog as well, it does work well. Mine is also a clear, glass bowl. Not too high, not too low. My gray saw the crickets in there from the other side, hopped over and went right in, smart fella.

Ive dealt with crickets for years, for my bearded dragon, so ive got it down pat. Keeping the homes clean, gutloading them, dusting them before feeding, etc. I have bred them as well.

And okay i will make sure he is hydrated.

Thank you for all the info! the more the better! Feeling confident about this with help from you guys!

[jarteta97]

Yup, there's nothing like having Frog Forum at your back for a build

[Heatheranne]

Heather you win this round.. I will see you in the next help thread for a rematch!

Excellent team work . I'll see you there!

[Heatheranne]

You've got a nice group posting here for you .

Lynn is my side-kick . We've both learned from some of the best breeders .

Paul and Amy are great too!

You can either do a mister or fogger set to be timed or turned on/off twice a day or spray twice a day. I know people who do either/or. Both are fine. I enjoy misting myself. It gives me time to monitor the tank and make sure everything is just right. I do "frog chores", as I call it, just before lights out while they are still asleep.

I, like Lynn and many others, also bowl feed. Works great .

I feed my adults every day, though you can feed them every other day. Even though they are full grown I feed 1/2" or a tiny bit bigger crickets.

Lynn feeds hers daily also. Paul, do you feed yours daily or every other day?

It sounds like you're planning well .

[MantidBro]

You've got a nice group posting here for you .

Lynn is my side-kick . We've both learned from some of the best breeders .

Paul and Amy are great too!

You can either do a mister or fogger set to be timed or turned on/off twice a day or spray twice a day. I know people who do either/or. Both are fine. I enjoy misting myself. It gives me time to monitor the tank and make sure everything is just right. I do "frog chores", as I call it, just before lights out while they are still asleep.

I, like Lynn and many others, also bowl feed. Works great .

I feed my adults every day, though you can feed them every other day. Even though they are full grown I feed 1/2" or a tiny bit bigger crickets.

Lynn feeds hers daily also. Paul, do you feed yours daily or every other day?

It sounds like you're planning well .

Yes its very helpful! thanks to everyone, including you!

I was worried about if i wasnt home if itd be bad for them but if only twice a day keeps the humidity where it should be then thats fine. Should i spray heavily each time, moderately, or lightly?

[Heatheranne]

Spray as much as it takes to keep the humidity in the accurate range. Usually spraying in the am and pm is good. Sometimes you have to cover the tank top with some plastic or foil.