I think Morty prolapsed his stomach! I called an exotic vet and the tech told me it would probably cost in the upwards of 300 dollars to fix and probably would happen again. Is this true? Can I fix it myself... Im not squeamish and if its going to happen a lot I cant drop 300 a trip anyway..
A frog that ejects it's stomach through mouth trying to get rid of stuff and can't get it back is usually dead soon thereafter. Are you talking about a prolapsed intestine? Can you please post a picture? Thank you!
Remember to take care of the enclosure and it will take care of your frog!
Morty is small.. about the size of a half dollar and there is nothing sticking out of his mouth...only noticed it when I fed him last night. He went to snap at a cricket and there was something large and pink in his little mouth and he couldn't get the cricket. I am soaking him in pedialyte right now. What else could it be other than his stomach? Hes also bloated. I would take a pic but you cant see anything without his mouth open and its impossible for me to get his mouth open and snap a shot at the same time
Can't tell without a picture, but I think what you saw may have been his tongue? They sometimes will stick their tongue out a bit and open/close their mouth several times if they miss striking at a cricket and get dirt in their mouth.
If nothing's hanging out of his mouth, don't stress him by trying to open the mouth. Mine prolapsed her stomach once (actually ended up being fine with no medical intervention; I just stuck the broad end of some tongs in her mouth to keep her from biting the stomach until it went back in on its own in a couple minutes... apparently most cases don't end as well as hers did though). If the stomach is actually prolapsed, the frog will probably look kind of... idk, almost hollow on one side, and the stomach will probably be visible outside the mouth. Also there usually isn't a question about whether there's a problem; it's obvious something is very wrong.
For the bloating (if nothing is hanging out of the frog's mouth) you can put a few drops of honey in lukewarm water no higher than the frog's chin and let him soak in that for 15-20 minutes. That helps with water retention and impaction.
Also, if you could copy/paste the answers to the Trouble in the Enclosure sticky that would be helpful. Pictures of the frog and enclosure would be helpful as well.
3.0 Thamnophis sirtalis sirtalis
1.1 Thamnophis cyrtopsis ocellatus
0.1 Ceratophrys cranwelli
1.0 Litoria caerulea
0.1 Terrapene carolina
0.1 Python regius
0.1 Grammostola rosea
0.0.1 Brachypelma smithi
0.1 Hogna carolinensis
This morning morty was looking tons better and he ate a couple of crickets. Is it possible his tongue was swollen? Perhaps a cricket went down the wrong way? I will post pics later today..I'm trying to leave him alone and not stress him out. We don't pick him up and he is in a critter keeper inside a 10 gallon right now. He eats crickets that are small and not dusted but they do get fortified cricket quencher. He last pooped on Wednesday and I know this because I soaked him to make it happen. It was a fairly large bowel movement. His temps are around 80/81 and humidity around 60 percent. .. i mist often but we use a 40 watt blue light and a heat pad on the side of the tank and the lamp seems so drying. Would you suggest going to night crawlers?
Yes nightcrawlers are way better then crickets, but for some it takes time to get used to them
are supplementing with ca/vitd3 and multivitamins and if so how often?
you gotta do smth about humidity, yours is way too low, you gotta keep it at around 75 (70-80%), but never lower then 70.
How big is a frog exactly? And yes picture of a frog and his enclosure would be very helpful.
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
I hadn't been giving him any extra vitamins other than what the crickets ate but I bought some today. I had been told by Petsmart that he didn't need any thing else. I also bought night crawlers today and a stand for the lamp so that I can cover more of the top with saran wrap to increase humidity. Should I cut up the worm for him or offer it whole? Will he eat a whole one? or is that too much? I have the digital hygrometer in the large tank and he's in he critter keeper inside of the large tank. I honestly think its a lot more humid in there than the big tank but I will also attempt to increase it in the larger tank. Right now he's burrowing and he hasn't done that in the critter keeper up until now. Im hoping that's an indication Ive finally got the temps right. Ill try to grab a few pics tonight when I try to feed him, Im trying not to stress him out anymore than I have to
You need to get ca/vitd3 and separate multivitamin powder. Use ca 2xweek, multivitamins 1 x week in a separate day.
With your frog however you need to get reptiboost (petsmart usually carries that) and dust whatever he is eating every time.
he has vitamin deficiency, i would think vit a to be exact.
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
Experience and knowledge. In that particular case a frog had a history of nonsupplemented food items, especially non supplemented with vitamins, he also presents as not able to catch crickets properly=very possible A vitamin deficiency.
therefore that is where treatment should start.
Save one animal and it doesn't change the world, but it surely changes the world for that one animal!
Lija is correct. Lack of Vitamin A reduces their production of the sticky mucus that coats their tongue making it difficult for them to catch prey. If the frog lacks both calcium and. Vitamin A it will develope short tongue syndrome which not only reduces mucus production, but also weakens the muscles in the tongue and the frog cannot flick its tongue out at full length hence the name of the syndrome.
Please also keep in mind that the frogs food should be no larger than the distance between his eyes. This means that you may have to cut the worm into bite sized pieces. Tong feeding is helpful if he'll take the food that way.
I would recommend you get some Repashy calcium plus for his multivitamin. It has a bit of vitamin A in it and is a great supplement. You'll still need the Calcium with vitamin D3 every other feeding. I use Repashy one day a week for my horned frogs. No calcium/D3 on Repashy day, except what is in the already made Repashy.
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Unfortunately many pet stores know very little about amphibian species. We can teach you here though.
Trust me, 6 of my frogs were saved from pet stores not caring for them correctly.
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And 1 of mine was saved from a pet store. I couldn't even begin to tell you how many people come on here with bogus information on how to care for amphibians.
Lija, Mentat, and Heatheranne have you well covered. Follow their advice and hopefully your frog starts improving.
1.1.0 - Oophaga Pumilio 'Blue Jeans' (2014 Nicaragua Import)
1.1.0 - Oophaga Pumilio 'Chirique Grande' F1
1.1.0 - D. Tinctorius 'Citronella'
1.2.0 - D. Tinctorius 'Azureus'
0.0.2 - D. Tinctorius 'Sipaliwini'
0.0.2 - D. Tinctorius 'New River'
0.0.4 - D. Tinctorius 'Leucomelas'
0.0.4 - Terribilis 'Mint'
1.1.0 - R. Ventrimaculatus 'French Guiana'
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