work involved in maintaining a planted 40gal with fire belly toads?

[Mentat]

First, please read this care article: Frog Forum - Fire-Bellied Toad Care and Breeding - Bombina orientalis and relatives. As long as it's properly designed; you might not need to break it down for years. If done wrong (i.e. dry area gets waterlogged) it will need to be redone in weeks. I'm not a good decorator, so will let others help in that. Best thing is to think of water/dry areas separate and discuss them apart. Following set-up applies to a false bottom enclosure with both.

All aquatic systems depend on the Nitrogen cycle. Just search for it on internet and will see lots of nice videos and diagrams. Depending on water volume you will need an in tank (smaller) or canister (bigger) power filter. For in tank recommend look at the Danner Supreme Ovation line of filters. For canisters research Rena, Fluval or Eheim.

Beneficial bacteria will colonize filter media and reduce toxic Ammonia produced by frogs into less toxic Nitrites, and then to Nitrates. You get ride of the last by doing weekly water changes to keep at or below 25PPM optimally. It takes around 30 days for the bacteria culture to become established and when that happens, the tank is "cycled." Using a product like Seachem Stability reduces the period in half. Do not use products that neutralize ammonia and nitrates; bacteria need it free to consume it.

Filter media should be cleaned in tank water during water change as needed; not in tap water that will kill it. Always use dechlorinated tap (Seachem Prime or ExoTerra Aquatize are very good) as a water source.

A bare bottom is better to maintain and keep tank clean by vacuuming while doing water change. If a substrate is desired, fine sand is recommended because it will not cause issues should a frog swallow it. Gravel or small pebbles can impact a frog or worse if swallowed. Depending on your rooms temperature, you might need to heat the water. If so, Eheim heaters are the best, just make sure you get one for actual water volume in use. Will go and start cooking lunch now and return for dry area care once get it started .

[Mentat]

OK, now that we got a nice Squid Paella going (I'm allergic to shellfish); let's continue discussion . False bottom mentioned before is what will allow having a dry area over a water one. Another option would be to create a "dam" by gluing a piece of glass to enclosures inside; but if it leaks (and many do) you have a problem with waterlogged substrate on dry section.

So your false bottom can be a layer of gravel, clay balls, or egg crate material (from fluorescent light fixtures) over which you will place some plastic window screen and your dry substrate on top. That dry substrate should be above the highest water level mark, so it does not become water logged. If thinking of plants, the recommended substrate is ABG type soil. Lot's of examples in forum's how to articles and in the vivarium section, those by Bill (Deranged Chipmunk) discuss false bottom construction very well.

As long as you spot clean, the cleaning crew (springtails, etc.) in the substrate and plants will recycle frogs waste into their food source. Plants will also require 12 hours of light in the 6,500 - 6,700 color range, LEDs or Fluorescents are fine. You need to learn more about preparing your plants for the vivarium and caring for the frogs and all the info is in here already; just search for it or visit the appropriate forum section. Hope my answers help and good luck !

[miranda2]

This is sounding more complicated then I like. Squid paella sounds better then the leftover frozen pizza I just ate
I understand about cycling as I had a nice mixed tank of fresh water fish for some time years ago.That is until I bought some petco fish and my entire tank died in one week.
I have not had any fish since.But I do have a few odds and ends left, like heaters and a couple cheapish filters.

Okay maybe I should start with fake plants and just a simple setup. I didnt realize that the water would be just like taking care of a fish tank.