Cycling?

[Mentat]

I state the water is never cycled, since the bacteria do not live on the water column; they need a surface to attach too. What you actually cycle is the filter and that is the reason filter media (i.e. bio-balls) by design has a large surface area.

Nitrates can be removed by water changes or by exporting plant biomass out of the tank. Leaving old leaves, stems, etc. in the tank to rot, will release nutrients the plant took out of the water column, to include nitrates.

To buffer tank safely, can use aragonite in a small bag on the filter. Would start with a tablespoon of aragonite (saltwater aquarium substrate) and check the pH after 24 hours, then adjust the amount as needed .

[RaudyReptiles]

I state the water is never cycled, since the bacteria do not live on the water column; they need a surface to attach too. What you actually cycle is the filter and that is the reason filter media (i.e. bio-balls) by design has a large surface area.

Nitrates can be removed by water changes or by exporting plant biomass out of the tank. Leaving old leaves, stems, etc. in the tank to rot, will release nutrients the plant took out of the water column, to include nitrates.

To buffer tank safely, can use aragonite in a small bag on the filter. Would start with a tablespoon of aragonite (saltwater aquarium substrate) and check the pH after 24 hours, then adjust the amount as needed .

I understand it now haha I feel so stupid I have found a product that Seachem makes that is called "neutral regulator" which raises or lowers the ph to 7.0 and maintains it there! The filter I believe I will use is the fluval u4 underwater filter. I'd prefer a canister filter but I'm afraid of to much current on a 20 gallon for my frog. This is definitely a learning process but I am up for the challenge

Thanks!
Colton