Keeping marsh frogs in a tank?

[CatherineM]

My marsh frogs are in half land/half water tank. The frogs stay at the water edge. They actually live in the water. They hunt the crickets and then head straight back into the water.

We keep them at room temperature.

[taniaaust1]

Thanks. I found your post quite interesting as the ones which turned to frogs in my pond, seemed to have hopped away and I havent seen them around the pond since (I found one in the very small bog area I'd made a few days after it left the pond but havent seen that one since either), so from that, I'd got the impression thou even thou they have the name they do which makes it sound like they should be right near water, maybe they didnt keep hanging around the water. But with their name, your post makes sense.

Unless mine outside by the pond are hiding and some how Im missing seeing them out hunting, thou I dont think that as I can see the pond clearly from my window of the room Im usually in. **wondering now what is going on with mine once they leave the pond**. I used to get a couple of birds out by the pond but havent seen a bird in that area for ages, not since I put a shade sail near the pond. I did once see a huge blue tongue lizard out there, but havent seen it back since.

Anyway.. it was good to read your post about your frogs behaviour. What size tank do you have and how many do you have in it? How much land do you think one of these would need? Do you do anything about humidity at all? If the glass has gone foggy, do you know if that would mean the humidity is too high?

(I guess I can get rid of the crazy image I had going on about the frogs going rotten due to me having them in too much water!!)

[CatherineM]

Mine are in 3ft fish tank with a divide down the middle. At one end of the of divider there is a slab of rock that makes a cave. The frogs live in the cave. The cover in half mesh and glass. We have 6 marsh frogs.

Most nights I see two- three frogs.

[Mentat]

If you are referring to the Spotted Marsh Frog - Limnodynastes tasmaniensis; pretty much can follow the guidelines in this article housing section to set up a home. There are several ways to build up a 50-50 or similar dry to wet section tank, most are based in a false bottom system. Main thing is that any soil be above the max water level; otherwise it will become a bacteria breeding bog. There is more information in the article how to section or in specific builds on the vivarium section with examples of combined wet/dry set-ups.

You want the temperature between 10-25C (50-77F) so room temps should be fine as long as it's not too hot. I would not take the enclosure outside since this can create fast temperature swings or make it too hot for frog. Humidity will be maintained by the water section normal evaporation and you can adjust it if too dry by covering the screen top with aluminum foil, 50-65% should be fine.

You do not need artificial light unless live plants are used in set-up. Floating plants and shoreline grasses will help your frogs feel safe. UVB bulbs are not required; although have read some members note a positive difference with frogs kept under low "tropical" UVB bulbs (2-5 UVB). No matter if using UVB bulbs or not; you need to add CA and vitamin supplements, more on that in here: http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...schedules.html. Insects should be sized smaller than distance between frog eyes and crickets gut loaded for 24-48 hours with lettuce, carrots, and cherios cereal before feeding frog.

The water section is very important since frogs will spend most of their lives in it. Use dechlorinated tap (Seachem Prime or similar) and a filter is recommended. With no filter, should change 10-25% of the water volume daily with same temperature dechlornated tap to remove toxic ammonia from the water. If there is a seasoned filter, with a bacteria culture reducing ammonia to nitrites and then to much less toxic nitrates; then a 20-25% weekly water change is usually enough to keep nitrates below 50ppm. Plants in water will also help keep nitrates down if actively growing and excess plant biomass is trimmed and removed from tank weekly. The biofilter will take around 30 days to establish itself so bacteria consume all ammonia and nitrites in water. That period can be reduced in half with a product like Seachem's Stability. During that time you will need to keep up with water changes every couple days.

Hope this helps and share your frog pics when in new home, good luck !

[CatherineM]

Yes Carlos, that's the frog we are referring. The main issue with temperature is making sure they don't get to hot in summer. They can cope with temperatures up to 30c.

It's winter now so temperature control is easy.