Red Eyed Tree Frog has dark spot that bleeds

[andaroo]

Ooh I forgot about Dr. Frye when I was mentioning my experience with vets. Yes I heard very good things about him as he actually knows his stuff and keeps frogs himself I believe. However when it was mentioned to take it to the vets, unless you live near to where Dr. Frye is the best you can do is contact him and buy his frog aid kit.
Red eyes are very hit and miss when they are sick. I have had ones that didn't eat and got those spots and died. Then I had some that got the spots but then survived with baytril treatment (i think it was at 2.5%) and lower humidity. I had one with bad nose rub that I 'rescued' from an expo, she was clearly an adult female and the only one that I could find there so I took her in hopes of healing her. I used neosporin and it healed a treat no scars or anything. Then when I introduced her to the main enclosure after 3 months quarantine some of the frogs got marks on them and blisters similar to the pictures in this thread. One of them ended up dying but he was 5 years old anyway (I've always been told they don't live much longer than 5 years) the other one was the one with the nose rub. I quarantined her applied neosporin to the blister kept her at lower humidity by keeping her enclosure dry so never misting it and it he healed up pretty quickly.
Also if you want to do a pedialyte bath it is safer to make one yourself than buying one intended for human consumption as they have other unnecessary ingredients added that may not be good for the frogs. To make it yourself you just need aquarium salt (regular salt is ionized and had other things added to it to stop it from clumping which is harmful to frogs) and sugar. The recipe is 1 tsp aquarium salt, 2 tsp sugar and 500ml of distilled water. Boil some water and add a tiny amount of the boiled water to the sugar and salt to make a syrup then once its all dissolved and is clear not cloudy add that to your 500ml distilled water and stir it up. Soak the frog for 15 minutes in it. It's stressful to them but gives them an energy boost and might get them to start eating. You can try misting him with the mixture but for better results soaking is the way to go. The electrolytes in the solution don't last long so make a new batch everytime you soak the frog to get the full effect. I have had new red eyes not eat for a couple of weeks though so don't worry too much.

[flybyferns]

Harrison ….. keep us posted. Hang in there We have ALL been in this situation to one degree or another, so we really understand and want to help.

I would bowl feed. You could let one or 2 crickets roam PLUS use a bowl. I would put small / fresh crickets in every night. I would calcium dust daily ( FOR NOW-ONLY). This will ensure he will get Ca with that first meal. I use these bowls:


Bowls should be cleaned daily with the hottest tap water possible and dried. As we know it doesn't take much water for a cricket to look really disgusting by the next morning. yuck ! A FF search will find lots of post on this topic----w/ lots' of great ideas.

I feed all my adult tree frogs ( small crickets ) every night --- and move all the uneaten yuckies back to the cricket bin the next day to feed. I keep a separate cricket bin for each of 2 tree frog species. I never feed ( for example ) crickets from these bins to my P terribilis. It's an open invitation for the spread of all the 'issues' we read about trying to prevent. A little obsessive ? - maybe- but it seems to have worked very nicely for me. I have a red eye that was born in 2007-2008 ( ish ).

There is no doubt it - Red Eyes are very needy!
There really should be more warnings - they are really not for beginners. When this is mixed with the fact that they are very available > then go to a person that might not have planned for the purchase, it often leads to problems.
Good thing you were prepared.

A word about shipping frogs and dehydration - a little biology. I have a little brain so bare with me. Severe dehydration can lead to accumulation of lactate. This accumulation of lactate causes hypoxia ( def: “is a condition in which the body or a region of the body is deprived of adequate oxygen supply “ ) This can occur in all major organs including the skin. Their skin can breakdown very quickly. ALL frogs have some degree of de-hydration from shipping . Sadly, it is difficult to determine the severity of it. The unflavored pedi solution, or even de-chlorinated tap water is always necessary.

When I know I will be purchasing a new frog from a show, I bring a mini QT set up with me. The frog is transferred to it asap.

It’s no different for our sweet little ‘poster child' - the Red Eye Tree Frog. Re-hydration needs to take place quickly – it’s as important as the standard QT set-up. This and a nice long period in a dark and quiet spot will help. The QT set- up helps to facilitate this.

Their skin is so fragile. ) So handling should happen only when absolutely necessary. Damp/ disposable gloves should be used ( non-latex- and powder free). Like Heath, I use the dropper method- only when the frog is sleeping. If the frog is sleeping on a leaf ( even better !) stand there for 15-20 minutes ( a few times a day ) holding the leaf in the shallow bath.

Yup , you are now late for work. Tell your boss it was more important to “ soak your frog” they will be fine with that- I promise ! Then you can join the rest of us crazies