Red Eyed Tree Frog has dark spot that bleeds

[flybyferns]

Hi
Welcome to Frog Forum

I'm sorry.........this is a wound.
It is at the very tip of the 'tailbone'.
This could have been caused by pressure against the area too long.
Did the frog get stuck behind something?

You can pull the background out !!!!! IMO - trash it!
They would prefer to sleep on the glass

How were they shipped to you ?

They are VERY susceptible to infections if there is a break in their skin.
This frog needs a vet, and antibiotics to be applied to that spot. Sorry

In the meantime....You could get neosporin ( from a pharmacy) WITHOUT pain reliever.
Pain reliever will kill your frog.
Plain neo will help to begin to heal the area until you can speak to a herp vet.
Apply the neo - very - gently- with a clean Q-tip, while the frog is sleeping.

http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-prepared.html
( you could email this vet? ) you can pay for medication via a credit card- send the photos

http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...n-juchems.html

You should contact the person you purchased the frog from as well!

The " opening and closing " of their mouths could be shedding ? but could also be the a result of too high a temp and humidity!
They typically shed right when they wake up for the night... you see them wiping their face.

This is shedding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s50VrErCPWs

care sheet: ( see temp and humidity parameters )
Frog Forum - Red-Eyed Leaf Frog/Red Eyed Tree Frog Care - Agalychnis callidryas

Seriously, considering separating the frogs ...establish a separate quarantine ( QT) enclosure for each of them:

http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html
http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-supplies.html

********************

They can take days to adjust. Cover three sides of the tank with a dark cloth, keep them in a very quiet area.
They should have complete darkness at night.

Don' forget their soaking dish: chin deep/ de-chlorinated water ONLY/ clean the dish daily in hop tap water.
( a ceramic plant saucer or regular saucer ) or any really shallow flat dish- even a sandwich plate will do

Feed them small crickets for now until you know ( by counting crickets) or have witness them eating
They do well with bowl feeding ( do a FF search re bowl feeding )
* see care sheet for calcium and vit supplements

Please keep us posted.

[andaroo]

Neosporin that you suggested is more than enough. They don't need to go to the vet. Gosh, if i went to the vet everytime something like this happened to one of my 20 frogs i'd be bankrupt. It really bothers me when people just instantly say OMG VET OMG VET YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THE VET! It's BS! I *HAVE* taken a few of mine to vets back when I was new to frogs and I've never found a vet that could get it right and they HAD experience with frogs! Try finding one that does have the experience and even then it probably won't work or is something you could have done yourself at home. Frogs decline so quickly anyway if it's bad it usually is too late for the vet to even do anything anyway and the money you wasted could just be put towards getting a replacement frog. My giant waxy monkey frogs were in way worse condition than this as they are WC and then were shipped via fed ex to me and neosporin is working on their wounds just fine. I would use methylene blue 2% too, walmart sells it (or can order it in for you if they don't thats what they did for me) its an antiseptic u just dip a q tip in it and then dab their wounds with it to clean the wound and then apply a blob on neosporin on top. Keep their enclosure dry, do not mist as dampness will prevent the wound drying up and healing. Obviously offer them a water dish, they like to dip their bums in rather than soak in it so no water should get on the wounds.

[Gomugomuking]

Neosporin that you suggested is more than enough. They don't need to go to the vet. Gosh, if i went to the vet everytime something like this happened to one of my 20 frogs i'd be bankrupt. It really bothers me when people just instantly say OMG VET OMG VET YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THE VET! It's BS! I *HAVE* taken a few of mine to vets back when I was new to frogs and I've never found a vet that could get it right and they HAD experience with frogs! Try finding one that does have the experience and even then it probably won't work or is something you could have done yourself at home. Frogs decline so quickly anyway if it's bad it usually is too late for the vet to even do anything anyway and the money you wasted could just be put towards getting a replacement frog. My giant waxy monkey frogs were in way worse condition than this as they are WC and then were shipped via fed ex to me and neosporin is working on their wounds just fine. I would use methylene blue 2% too, walmart sells it (or can order it in for you if they don't thats what they did for me) its an antiseptic u just dip a q tip in it and then dab their wounds with it to clean the wound and then apply a blob on neosporin on top. Keep their enclosure dry, do not mist as dampness will prevent the wound drying up and healing. Obviously offer them a water dish, they like to dip their bums in rather than soak in it so no water should get on the wounds.

are you trying to breed the giant waxy's? where did you get yours?

[Gomugomuking]

they were definitely rubbing themselves like that with their feet. i wrote it wrong. when they did that it was saturday around 11pm. afterwards the small one was very active but the big didnt move from his spot. i picked them up and took them home in the deli cups they gave me to take them home. those spots seem to have appeared out of nowhere. i dont think the bangged him self on anything. i looked at the care sheet. my temps are good. however i didnt see anything on the humidity.

is it possible to have too much humidity?

ive got him quarintined now, and i have applied regular neosporin on all of the areas, there was about four or so that i found. there was some more on his underside between his rear legs. they were not grey. they were red spots, two of them.

[andaroo]

yes too much humidity is very bad for red eyes they need moderate humidity 40-50% everyone seems to get this wrong and most care sheets say 80-90% which they should really only be exposed to for breeding purposes. They are tree frogs they don't need dart frog levels of humidity.

[flybyferns]

Via email ,Dr Frye, makes it very easy to for members to treat what could end up being a systemic infection - as is the case-- in this species of frog specifically.
His advice is free in his emailed responses.
Keeping SSD on hand ( as the link suggests) will prevent a delay in treatment.
He will suggest medication(s) to keep on hand

Yes, they can decline quickly, hence the reason for treating early and with the right medication.

I have had numerous conversation w Dr Frye. I keep every medication he suggests on-hand.
Then, he is and email away! He has answered email for me on a Sunday.

Yes-I treat my own frogs' bumps and bruises, viral and bacterial infections.
But I still speak to Dr Frye. I am not a vet. A nurse.... BUT not a vet.

It is imperative to treat broken skin early.
Each person has to develop a comfort level regarding self medicating their own frogs.

I for one-- DO NOT --want to read a post next week with the ( preventable ) sad news that another frog died.

ALL newly acquired frogs should be in QT for a minimum of at least 60 days.
This is a 'standard of care.'

A red eye tree frog with any broken skin requires the cleanest QT enclosure possible.
Paper towel substrate should be used and changed every other day. ( very wet - use de-chlorinated water only )
Soaking dishes need to be changed daily.
Distilled water can be used for misting- the enclosure walls - NOT the frog.

I'm glad to read this frog is in QT now
Quarantine ? Why not...what could this possible hurt ! ( Links for proper QT set-up are in post #2 )

[Gomugomuking]

Via email ,Dr Frye, makes it very easy to for members to treat what could end up being a systemic infection - as is the case-- in this species of frog specifically.
His advice is free in his emailed responses.
Keeping SSD on hand ( as the link suggests) will prevent a delay in treatment.
He will suggest medication(s) to keep on hand

Yes, they can decline quickly, hence the reason for treating early and with the right medication.

I have had numerous conversation w Dr Frye. I keep every medication he suggests on-hand.
Then, he is and email away! He has answered email for me on a Sunday.

Yes-I treat my own frogs' bumps and bruises, viral and bacterial infections.
But I still speak to Dr Frye. I am not a vet. A nurse.... BUT not a vet.

It is imperative to treat broken skin early.
Each person has to develop a comfort level regarding self medicating their own frogs.

I for one-- DO NOT --want to read a post next week with the ( preventable ) sad news that another frog died.

ALL newly acquired frogs should be in QT for a minimum of at least 60 days.
This is a 'standard of care.'

A red eye tree frog with any broken skin requires the cleanest QT enclosure possible.
Paper towel substrate should be used and changed every other day. ( very wet - use de-chlorinated water only )
Soaking dishes need to be changed daily.
Distilled water can be used for misting- the enclosure walls - NOT the frog.

I'm glad to read this frog is in QT now
Quarantine ? Why not...what could this possible hurt ! ( Links for proper QT set-up are in post #2 )

so its kind of discouraging reading all these "help my tree frog is ill!" threads and then reading through them only to find that they didnt survive. is there any success stories. have you ever read or seen a sick retf with a skin condition or anything else and brought him back up to full speed? i mean i'm pulling for the guy, and not just because he set me back fifty, but because i want a healthy frog. and i thnk if i as a pet owner can nurse him back than thats worth more than buying a healthy frog that never would have died anyway. its like i am saving him.