Hello everybody, im harrison, a new owner of two Red-Eyed Tree Frog's. i got them on friday and they are beautiful. last night (saturday) i stayed up and watched the smaller one climb all around the tank. and i am sure he got a hold of a cricket or two because he looks quite stuffed. any how the other one, the big guy has not moved since i put him in there. i understand that this is normalish and that frogs need some time to adjust to their new home. and each frog is a little different from the next. this morning i was a little worried because both frogs were opening their mouths over and over again. but after some research i figured out that they both were shedding. and the little one did great and climbed around after and went up into his corner where he likes it. however when the big guy was rubbing his skin with his feet i noticed a dark brown/blackish spot on his upper back. i figured it was just dirt so i sprayed him and let it be. well when i got home today it looked to me as the spot might have grown and maybe got darker as well. so i wet a q-tip and tried ever so gently to rub it off. well it didnt rub off like dirt but he did start to bleed out of it. then i noticed a similiar spot on the point by the vent between his back legs. some people say that the black is dead skin? which that makes sense since he was shedding. but he was bleeding from both spots. (very little but still it was blood) i am worried it might be a fungus or infection? i applied some neosporin on the spots with a q-tip. i would say he looks quite a bit skinnier since i got him on friday. anyways what do you think i should do? thank you.
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I'm sorry.........this is a wound.
It is at the very tip of the 'tailbone'.
This could have been caused by pressure against the area too long.
Did the frog get stuck behind something?
You can pull the background out !!!!! IMO - trash it!
They would prefer to sleep on the glass
How were they shipped to you ?
They are VERY susceptible to infections if there is a break in their skin.
This frog needs a vet, and antibiotics to be applied to that spot.Sorry
In the meantime....You could get neosporin ( from a pharmacy) WITHOUT pain reliever.
Pain reliever will kill your frog.
Plain neo will help to begin to heal the area until you can speak to a herp vet.
Apply the neo - very - gently- with a clean Q-tip, while the frog is sleeping.
http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-prepared.html
( you could email this vet? ) you can pay for medication via a credit card- send the photos
http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...n-juchems.html
You should contact the person you purchased the frog from as well!
The " opening and closing " of their mouths could be shedding ? but could also be the a result of too high a temp and humidity!
They typically shed right when they wake up for the night... you see them wiping their face.
This is shedding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s50VrErCPWs
care sheet: ( see temp and humidity parameters )
Frog Forum - Red-Eyed Leaf Frog/Red Eyed Tree Frog Care - Agalychnis callidryas
Seriously, considering separating the frogs ...establish a separate quarantine ( QT) enclosure for each of them:
http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html
http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-supplies.html
********************
They can take days to adjust. Cover three sides of the tank with a dark cloth, keep them in a very quiet area.
They should have complete darkness at night.
Don' forget their soaking dish: chin deep/ de-chlorinated water ONLY/ clean the dish daily in hop tap water.
( a ceramic plant saucer or regular saucer ) or any really shallow flat dish- even a sandwich plate will do
Feed them small crickets for now until you know ( by counting crickets) or have witness them eating
They do well with bowl feeding ( do a FF search re bowl feeding )
* see care sheet for calcium and vit supplements
Please keep us posted.
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Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
Neosporin that you suggested is more than enough. They don't need to go to the vet. Gosh, if i went to the vet everytime something like this happened to one of my 20 frogs i'd be bankrupt. It really bothers me when people just instantly say OMG VET OMG VET YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THE VET! It's BS! I *HAVE* taken a few of mine to vets back when I was new to frogs and I've never found a vet that could get it right and they HAD experience with frogs! Try finding one that does have the experience and even then it probably won't work or is something you could have done yourself at home. Frogs decline so quickly anyway if it's bad it usually is too late for the vet to even do anything anyway and the money you wasted could just be put towards getting a replacement frog. My giant waxy monkey frogs were in way worse condition than this as they are WC and then were shipped via fed ex to me and neosporin is working on their wounds just fine. I would use methylene blue 2% too, walmart sells it (or can order it in for you if they don't thats what they did for me) its an antiseptic u just dip a q tip in it and then dab their wounds with it to clean the wound and then apply a blob on neosporin on top. Keep their enclosure dry, do not mist as dampness will prevent the wound drying up and healing. Obviously offer them a water dish, they like to dip their bums in rather than soak in it so no water should get on the wounds.
they were definitely rubbing themselves like that with their feet. i wrote it wrong. when they did that it was saturday around 11pm. afterwards the small one was very active but the big didnt move from his spot. i picked them up and took them home in the deli cups they gave me to take them home. those spots seem to have appeared out of nowhere. i dont think the bangged him self on anything. i looked at the care sheet. my temps are good. however i didnt see anything on the humidity.
is it possible to have too much humidity?
ive got him quarintined now, and i have applied regular neosporin on all of the areas, there was about four or so that i found. there was some more on his underside between his rear legs. they were not grey. they were red spots, two of them.
yes too much humidity is very bad for red eyes they need moderate humidity 40-50% everyone seems to get this wrong and most care sheets say 80-90% which they should really only be exposed to for breeding purposes. They are tree frogs they don't need dart frog levels of humidity.
Via email ,Dr Frye, makes it very easy to for members to treat what could end up being a systemic infection - as is the case-- in this species of frog specifically.
His advice is free in his emailed responses.
Keeping SSD on hand ( as the link suggests) will prevent a delay in treatment.
He will suggest medication(s) to keep on hand
Yes, they can decline quickly, hence the reason for treating early and with the right medication.
I have had numerous conversation w Dr Frye. I keep every medication he suggests on-hand.
Then, he is and email away! He has answered email for me on a Sunday.
Yes-I treat my own frogs' bumps and bruises, viral and bacterial infections.
But I still speak to Dr Frye. I am not a vet. A nurse.... BUT not a vet.
It is imperative to treat broken skin early.
Each person has to develop a comfort level regarding self medicating their own frogs.
I for one-- DO NOT --want to read a post next week with the ( preventable ) sad news that another frog died.
ALL newly acquired frogs should be in QT for a minimum of at least 60 days.
This is a 'standard of care.'
A red eye tree frog with any broken skin requires the cleanest QT enclosure possible.
Paper towel substrate should be used and changed every other day. ( very wet - use de-chlorinated water only )
Soaking dishes need to be changed daily.
Distilled water can be used for misting- the enclosure walls - NOT the frog.
I'm glad to read this frog is in QT now
Quarantine ? Why not...what could this possible hurt ! ( Links for proper QT set-up are in post #2 )
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Current Collection
Dendrobates leucomelas - standard morph
Dendrobates auratus “Costa Rican Green Black"
Dendrobates auratus "Pena Blanca"
Dendrobates tinctorius “New River”
Dendrobates tinctorius "Green Sipaliwini"
Dendrobates tinctorius “Powder Blue"
Dendrobates tinctorius "French Guiana Dwarf Cobalt"
Phyllobates terribilis “Mint”
Phyllobates terribilis "Orange"
Phyllobates bicolor "Uraba"
Oophaga pumilio "Black Jeans"
Oophaga pumilio "Isla Popa"
Oophaga pumilio "Bastimentos"
Oophaga pumilio “Mimbitimbi”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Colubre"
Oophaga pumilio "Red Frog Beach”
Oophaga pumilio "Rio Branco"
Oophaga pumilio “Valle del Rey”
Oophaga pumilio "BriBri"
Oophaga pumilio "El Dorado"
Oophaga pumilio "Cristobal"
Oophaga pumilio "Rambala"
Oophaga “Vicentei” (blue)
Oophaga sylvatica "Paru"
Oophaga sylvatica "Pata Blanca"
Oophaga histrionica “Redhead”
Oophaga histrionica "Blue"
Oophaga lehmanni "Red"
Oophaga histrionica "Tado"
Ranitomeya variabilis "Southern"
Ranitomeya imitator "Varadero"
Ranitomeya sirensis "Lower Ucayali"
Ranitomeya vanzolinii
http://www.fernsfrogs.com
https://www.facebook.com/ferns.frogs
I agree. Free vet advice from a knowledgable herp vet (Dr.Frye) who has treated many ill frogs, is definitely worth your time.
He helped me save sick adopted red eyes from a local pet store years ago which are doing great. They had bacterial and fungal infections, were dehydrated and not eating. They would have otherwise died.
90% humidity is too high, and can lead to respiratory infections. 70-80% is not too high. Most of the best known breeders actually keep theirs at this routine daily humidity level. They only lower and then raise their humidity for the breeding season. Let's remember that red eyes are not local to the states naturally. They come from the rain forest.
Self-medicating:
Those who have been educated by a qualified vet or have long-term experience in breeding or care of amphibians know what they need to treat. It is best to otherwise follow vet recommendations on ill frog care. It is also best to provide accurate care sooner than later to avoid decline of the frogs health.
Quarantining is alway a good idea. It allows you to monitor well and prevent spread of disease.
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203589094112277&id=1363241107&set =a.1434844115446.2055312.1363241107&source=11&ref= bookmark
I went ahead and sent an email to Dr.Frye just waiting for a response now. I managed to get some silver sulfadiazene creme and applied it to all of his spots along with some more neosporin last night. This morning he's still alive! Hopefully he will stay that way. Just keeping my eye on him. He hasn't moved hardly at all since I got him on Friday and hasn't ate to my knowledge, only sleeps. Hoping his condition improves. Thanks for all the advice everyone i will keep you updated.
Waiting to hear. Will follow along.
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203589094112277&id=1363241107&set =a.1434844115446.2055312.1363241107&source=11&ref= bookmark
trying to get a hold of baytril right now. my uncle is a dog breeder and often uses it. here are those red spots in case you wanted to know just what they looked like.
also some pictures i just took of him in his qt tank. it looks like the spots may be getting better? he still looks very ill.
so i remembered i took a picture of him when i first put him in his tank when i got home. i thought it was just dirt and moss from the containers they put him in but i realize that he already had those marks on him. heres the picture:
so he was already infected, it wasn't my tank. which im glad to know seeing as i have the other guy in there now.
by the way here is pictures of him. i wish they were both looking this chubby.
also i am in contact with the people that i got it from, im not sure but it sounds like if he dies they are blaming it on me. we will wait and see for them to email me back.
i like the red eye's but they are proving to be trialsome. i wanted either a bicolor waxy or the red eye. i wish bicolor's were easier to come by. thanks everyone for your fast responses. i hope this little guy pull's through.
Yes Red eyes are trialsome, believe me I have been there! However I do not recommend bicolors to ANYONE, if you think red eyes are bad they are much much worse! I have experience with lots of tree frogs over 5 years and I just got the bicolors last month and even with the experience that I do have they have had me scratching my head trying to figure them out. They are still settling in now 5 weeks later and wounds are healing very slowly. They won't eat for themselves so I have had to force feed them (i know this is stressful but I do it very quickly by gently slipping a small curved spatula in their mouths then putting in a cricket. Once they feel something in their mouth their natural instinct takes over and they eat it and gulp it down. They won't wake up for days at a time sometimes, are very stressed easily, and i thought red eyes were stressed easily these are even worse! You would think for such a big frog they wouldn't be. They also need a big enclosure, I have them in a 3ft x 1.5ft x 3ft exo terra, the largest one they make and i don't think it's tall enough as the female likes to climb all the way to the top and keeps pushing on the lid. She injured herself on the metal mesh so I had to custom make a new lid made from the nylon flexarium mesh so it is no longer abrasive. I ordered them online but it is always better to get them from a pet store so you can see what condition they are in before purchasing.
so its kind of discouraging reading all these "help my tree frog is ill!" threads and then reading through them only to find that they didnt survive. is there any success stories. have you ever read or seen a sick retf with a skin condition or anything else and brought him back up to full speed? i mean i'm pulling for the guy, and not just because he set me back fifty, but because i want a healthy frog. and i thnk if i as a pet owner can nurse him back than thats worth more than buying a healthy frog that never would have died anyway. its like i am saving him.
Yes actually...
Twiggy when I brought him home from the mall to help him
Through the healing process
Twiggy recovered
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https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203589094112277&id=1363241107&set =a.1434844115446.2055312.1363241107&source=11&ref= bookmark
Bacterial and fungal infections.
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203589094112277&id=1363241107&set =a.1434844115446.2055312.1363241107&source=11&ref= bookmark
And Hector, Serena, and Cassie... Also adopted because they were sick, dehydrated and not eating.
Then
And now...
Cassie
Hector
Serena
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And Lucky and Callie who were just thin and Callie had a few spots...
A bit hard to see Callie's spots with the SSD on them.
And now...
Lucky
Callie
Callie has some scars, but she's still pretty.
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203589094112277&id=1363241107&set =a.1434844115446.2055312.1363241107&source=11&ref= bookmark
With the right treatments I think he may pull through. Dr. Frye is my vet also. He helped me to treat them.
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203589094112277&id=1363241107&set =a.1434844115446.2055312.1363241107&source=11&ref= bookmark
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