Temp only get to 23.3C with CHE :( plz help

[seks]

There's an ET 60W CHE in the ET wire light fixture (small). I have the rim of the ET wire light fixture hovering just 0.5" or so above the metal grid of the ET terrarium 18x18x12 top cover. The ET digital thermometer probe is stuck to the glass and sits just above the substrate and it's pretty much below where the CHE is placed. The initial temp was 20.7C or so before the CHE was turned ON. I left the CHE turned ON overnight. 7 hrs later, it only reads 23.3C What steps must I do to get the temp to the recommended temp for a pacman frog????????? I'd have thought 60W is more than enough.

[DigitalPunk]

For my CHE I cut the wire housing of the lamp hood back to the inner wire ring using a pair os snips. I then set that part straight onto the screen lid of the terrarium. It is also helpful to oversize the CHE. If that tank is an 18x18x24 than you will most likely want a 100W CHE to get the heat up.

[cjbage]

its an 18x18x12 and I would exchange that wire hanger for a dome one with a dimmer switch, all the heat is going out the sides and not being directed down into the tank..my observation on it

[kueluck]

Looking at the design of this, and since heat rises, there's nothing to direct the heat down into the viv. I bet it's nice and warm just above it.

[seks]

I guess just replacing the CHE with a 100W wouldn't make any difference either???

I am gonna get the Flukers Repta-Clamp Lamp ceramic with dimmer. Anyone know what the max watt is for the 5.5 and 8.5? It doesn't say on Fluker's website. I may change the CHE to 100W if 60W isn't sufficient enough in the fluker's repta-clamp lamp.

And also, does the CHE stick out beyond the rim of the fluker's repta-clamp lamp?

[cjbage]

5.5 inches ( for bulbs or ceramic heat emitters up to 75 watts)
8.5 inches (for bulbs or ceramic heat emitters up to 150 watts)

i have the flukers w/dimmer ( 5.5 I believe ) and a CHE 60w and no it doesn't stick out, if in doubt do what I do open the packages and screw in the bulb n look lol

[seks]

5.5 inches ( for bulbs or ceramic heat emitters up to 75 watts)
8.5 inches (for bulbs or ceramic heat emitters up to 150 watts)

i have the flukers w/dimmer ( 5.5 I believe ) and a CHE 60w and no it doesn't stick out, if in doubt do what I do open the packages and screw in the bulb n look lol

I guess I should just go with 8.5 since the next bulb after 60W is 100W if you look at either ET or ZM

Also looking at the Zoo Med clamp lamp safety cover 8.5" LFC-12. Looks like it should be able to just clip on the rim of the flukers

[seks]

I bought the Flukers 8.5" Repta-Clamp Lamp ceramic with dimmer. I adjusted the included clamp and the ZM lamp stand so that the lamp hovers about 1" above the metal grid of the ET tank cover. I also covered the front half of the tank metal grid cover with aluminum foil. The sensor probe of the ET thermometer sits about 1" above the 2" thick substrate, and it's placed below where the lamp hover.

I tried an ET 60W CHE. With the dimmer max out, the temp I got was 27.1C. I also tried ET 100W CHE. I don't remember what the temp got to with dimmer maxed out.

It seems like the ET 60W CHE is sufficient enough. I'm still trying to figure out by trial and error how much I have to turn/decrease the dimmer so that I can change the temp to about 24ish C for night time.

Pacman has not burrow himself beneath the lamp though. The lamp hovers on the left rear side while the pacman has been sitting on the right front side.

[cjbage]

Save up some money and try and find one of these http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HygroT...med+hydrotherm locally or from Ebay/amazon, it will help you out in the long run but the dimmers are great for now once you get it dialed in, its just this controller is on the expensive side but worth it. keep checking the temps so he/she doesn't get too hot/cold. Mine usually hangs out under the plant right in the middle of the tank if they aren't in the water dish.